Looks right. If your rear wheels lock up prior to the fronts then you can put an adjustable valve in line somewhere on the rear brake line. Not sure if there is a spot for a brake light switch there, but might be. If not you can add a tee or put the switch on the brake pedal.

This (below) is similar to the one I used, but if you can get away without using a valve/block like on the one below then you are better off avoiding it . . . one less thing to go wrong:

EDIT: If you need one for your setup, then use it, but check with a brake professional to determine this. I am not a brake specialist. The kit I used works great, and is a big improvement though.

F100 8 Inch Dual Power Booster Kit with Adjustable Valve

 

The valve assembly shown in your link is just essentially a junction block with a built-in manually-adjustable proportioning valve. The cylindrical object with the two shiny contacts on it is a pressure-activated brake light switch.

The only moving component inside that particular valve assembly would be the proportioning poppet valve. However, in any proportioning valve, whether it's an aftermarket manually-adjustable unit or, if it's an OEM brake valve with a fixed setting proportioning function, the proportioning valve doesn't operate everytime you step on the brake pedal.

Under 'normal' driving conditions, the poppet valve of the proportioning circuit is normally open and doesn't do anything. The poppet valve only becomes active when a certain pressure level has been reached in the brake system --as in a panic stop situation where brake system pressures are much higher than normal. The fluid pressure of the brake system pushes against annular ends of the proportioning poppet valve. This overcomes the tension of the spring and pushes the poppet over to restrict the rate of pressure rise on the rear brakes, proportional to the pressure acting on the front brakes.

Proportioning valves don't limit the amout of brake pressure to the rear brakes. They only slow the rate of pressure rise to the rears, proportional to the pressure acting on the front brakes.

This aftermarket valve assembly doesn't contain a pressure differential valve or a means to warn of a brake pressure imbalance and it does not contain a metering valve --if a person has or, was ever planning to install front discs, these would be key features you would not get with this particular brake valve. In an OEM all drum brake setup, no proportioning to the rear drums is used.

Being able to lock the brakes up and smoke the tires really isn't a good measure of establishing if the brakes are working well. In reality, locking up the brakes in a panic situation is the worst thing you can do.

Maximum deceleration of the vehicle and the maximum coefficient of friction and traction of the tires to the pavement comes at the moment just BEFORE the brakes lock up. A vehicle that has its brakes locked and the tires sliding means you do not have control of the vehicle's direction and, it will have a longer stopping distance than a vehicle that can rapidly decelerate but, doesn't have its brakes locked and the tires sliding.

 

UltraRanger: I know everything you say is true. I realize that the term "proportioing valve" that I used is not accurate. It is a distribution block with a 'pressure' valve that reduces pressure only when pressure exceeds a certain level: it 'caps it off' so to speak. Thank you for elaborating and clarifying . . .

I also added an edit to my post above so that I don't give the impression I am an authority on brakes and am only sharing the results of my last brake system replacement.

 

I'm not singling you out. I'm just speaking in generalities that often times many people will make reference to any type of brake valve as a "prop" valve, even if it's a case where the particular valve doesn't even have a proportioning function --such as in the case of the OEM pressure differential valves that were used on all Bumpside trucks.

It's sort of the same deal where many people will reference having a "posi" differential in their Ford rear end. Positraction was a GM trademark name for their limited slip differential. In a Ford rear end, the limited slip differential would have been an Equa-Lok from 1957-1968 or, the much improved Traction-Lok differential from 1969-1986.

The valve you referenced does have a proportioning feature. It's just a manually-adjustable one instead of a fixed setting proportioning valve like you would have on an OEM brake valve.

 

ultraranger: I understand completely. You provided accurate and relevant information.

 

I just wanted to clarify that I wasn't trying to pee in your Cheerios or that we were at odds.

 

Ha ha. I was picking up what you were putting down.

 

Hey all, well I got myself a master cylinder and went to bleed it. I noticed that the shaft that goes from the brake pedal to the MC. I noticed that the new one is about 1/2 in longer. I would just use the older one but it is of a difference design. I could just let the boot hold it but I don't know if that is safe and a doable thing. Let me know what you all think.

 

If you have a new bracket between the firewall and MC you probably need the longer pushrod.

Is your concern that the pushrod does not fit snugly in the opening for the MC? In other words my pushrod does not have a diameter that would fit it into the MC without some space between the circumference of the rod and inner diameter of where it fits into the MC. If someone disagrees then please chime in, but the important thing seems like it would be the length of the rod . . . If the new one is threaded you can adjust the length. Install it, and test the pedal then adjust length as necessary.

 

My concern is the connection, both rods are a sold shaft and but the new one is a thicker diameter so leads to a sloppy connection for the old one. The other concern is that the new shaft is longer and then will screw with the braking ratio. The mounting bracket is the same for old and new MC. And I can't pass it up, Giddy. Yes, it's juvenile but gotta have fun some times.

 

Giggidy Giggidy.

In that case I couldn't say without seeing it. This might be something you show or discuss with the vendor.

 

 

Both the pushrods are for a manual brake MC. The one on the right (in the first photo) looks like it may possibly have been modified (the tip/groove cut off and the tip re-rounded).

The pushrod for a manual MC will have a clip on the end (like the one you have pictured on the left in the first photo). There's a receiver groove up inside the piston (in the back end of a manual MC) that the pushrod clip locks into. This is to keep the pushrod from falling out of the back of the MC.

When you get the MC installed, pull the brake pedal back towards the seat. If the rod has no clip on the end and falls out the back of the MC, it's very important that you fabricate some sort of stop to limit the reward travel of the brake pedal, so the pushrod can't fall out of the MC.

--A MC designed for a power brake booster will not have a receiver groove for a pushrod clip.

The pushrod you have pictured on the left came from a vehicle that had a pedal-mounted brake light switch.

 

interesting the first pic as the reference. The one on the right is the old one and the one on the left is the new dual MC. The old was a single with the extra hole for the brake light sensor and the new one is a dual. Would the stop light sensor attach to the pedal? I've called a brake shop and they said if the push rod is too long it could cause dragging and brake lock up.

 

On second thought, MAYBE the single reservoir MCs didn't have a pushrod that positively engages with the MC. A tandem manual brake MC would have the groove in it for the clip on the pushrod to lock into it so that the pushrod can't just fall out of the MC.

I pulled this single reservoir MC out of the cob webs. --I had replaced it on a friend's '65 Mustang fastback, when I switched it to rear disc brakes and a 'modern' MC (it had factory front discs). The pushrod pulled right out of this MC. --seems strange they (Ford) wouldn't have had the pushrod lock into the back of the manual brake MC.



Some Fords had the brake light switch mounted in the MC --on the old single reservoir MCs. Some brake light switches were mounted on the brake pedal, where the eyelet of the MC pushrod attaches.

On my '69 F100, the brake light switch bracket is attached to the side of the brake pedal and the switch plunger contacts an adjustable bracket that bolts to the under side of the dash.



A simple check to determine if the pushrod is too long would be to see if the brake pedal has any free-play when you pull back on the pedal. If the brake pedal has no rearward free-play, the pushrod is too long and will keep the brakes partially applied, even when you don't have your foot on the brake pedal.