Hi OldBlue, you had commented on a question I posted about wiring the truck using just some good, high quality wires. I'm not really pleased with mounting options on the EZ wiring harness so I am leaning towards wiring it the old fashioned way. I have the diagram you mentioned from classiccarwiring.com and it's great, but I can't figure out what the blank rectangles are along each wire path. Seems like fuses? The old wires I pulled out had no fuses along the path, so I was confused. If they are in fact fuses, do you have suggestions on where to get them? I found some cheap places online but they are mostly 12 gauge wire, wasn't sure if that would work all over or if I would need some heavier gauge wired fuses too.

 

If I am understanding your question correctly, the small white rectangles shown in the diagram are a very general indication where the bullet style wire connectors are. They are not fuses. The rectangles help when you are searching for ways to remove a section of wire or specific harness without having to actually cut the wire(s). The inline fuses, resistors and circuit breakers are clearly marked on the diagram as you already know.

I replaced most of the wiring under my dash with good quality GXL 16 and 14 gauge wire. The high quality wire insulation is kind of soft and slick to the touch. It won't harden and crack like the stock wires or the stuff you get on the cheap at your local auto parts store. The 16 gauge wire should be big enough for most circuits, but I also used 14 gauge stuff when connecting up items that will draw more current than your typical light bulb. I also used much bigger wire (10 ga) when connecting main line hook-up between the battery and the light switch. In any case, you should use the same gauge wire for the ground, if the circuit calls for separate ground wire.

I also replaced all of the in-line fuse holders with the newer blade style. I purchased mine both at a local electronics store and on-line. The old tubular glass fuses are out dated. I also added a few more in-line fuses in a couple of un-fused circuits to help reduce the potential of a melt down. Just remember to remove the ground cable from the battery before you attempt any work on the electrical system. The main ground cable on the battery should be the first thing disconnected and the last wire to be re-connected.

 

Fantastic, thanks so much for responding! I was worried that I needed to buy 20 something inline fuse holders for all those locations! The rest makes total sense re: wire size and fusing/grounding. I think, in the end, this will look a lot better than the EZ wiring harness. I'll save that for a professional to do one day! Greatly appreciated, have a good week!

 

for what its worth,i went through the same thing you are going through,didnt think i could rewire my 59 alone.I called a mechanic buddy from high school and had him help me lay out the wires then connected them my self.worked out great.if you know anyone with a mechanic background ask for a little help most would be glad to help

 

Hey all, picking your brains again. I got my truck mostly wired up and went to fire it up and got nothing. No power to the solenoid or starter, not a single thing. I have the wiring diagram and thought I followed it closely but still have nothing. I had the battery tested and it's good so I must have some bad connections somewhere?

For the starter relay, the wiring diagram does not label the S & I posts so I'm wondering if I have those flipped? On the diagram, I assumed the S post was the one furthest from the fire wall with the red/black wire leading to the neutral safety switch and then to the S post on the ignition cylinder in the cab, is this correct? And the A post has the cable to the starter while the B (closest to the firewall) has the positive battery cable and a few others?

Thanks for any help everyone, I really need to get this started so I can move it from the street and in to my garage to finish up other work on it!

 

Your assumption seems correct for the solenoid, but you didn't mention if you have any/all other power. Lights, horn, instrument gauges, oil/gen light, etc.? That will help some give you advice.

 

Starter solenoid has to be grounded properly, thats an issue I have had in the past.

 

Not enough information to be much help. Get your volt meter out and check some things. A solenoid is just an on/off switch. When the power from the key gets to the solenoid it switches internally to provide direct power from the battery to the starter.

Some stuff to check:

When you turn the key on (not try to start) you should have power to the coil. Do you? If you don't you also likely don't have power going to the solenoid.

If you do. When you turn the key to the start position do you have power to the solenoid?

If you do, then you should hear a click. If no click, it may be bad or you may not have things grounded properly.

If you don't, you need to sort out why there is not power coming from the key.

For temporary start all you need is 12V to the coil and 12V to the side of the solenoid until to starts. If necessary You can rig this up separately to move it in side.