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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

ThinLizzy's '67 F250 CS

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Old Mar 31, 2016 | 06:04 PM
  #16  
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Thanks Orich, I'll try the sand paper. I don't think I can flip the retainer either...


Made a little more progress....built up the worn down clutch fork with some filler wire and sanded/buffed it down to somewhat original shape...




Spiffed up the bellhousing. Soaked it for two days in dishwasher soap and pine sol then applied some elbow grease. Not perfect but I'm happy with it.



The bellhousing plate (if that's what it's called?) you can see at the bottom of the above picture had remnants of an old gasket strip at the bottom of it. I haven't had any luck searching for it. Does anyone know what it's called or where I can find one? Or could I just use make a gasket and call it good?
 
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Old Mar 31, 2016 | 06:22 PM
  #17  
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I never seen where someone put a gasket in that area. Someone may have painted it an set it on a paper brown bag and since it was stuck just left it..
Don't worry about use as is.
Orich
 
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 12:28 AM
  #18  
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Yes that bell housing looks good now.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 07:28 PM
  #19  
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Got my flywheel resurfaced yesterday



Cleaned up the trans as best as I could. Should have the new clutch this week and have it all back in next weekend
 
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 07:45 PM
  #20  
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You may need to use a pilot bushing puller to remove the old one.

Don't fail to install a new pilot bushing tho.

I made up a installing tool from a 3/4"X4" threaded bolt with a nut & few washers about the OD size of the pilot bushing to drive it into the crank before installing the bell housing..

The 3/4" bolt will help keep in ID size while driving it into place.
Edited
Sometime if just using a large socket and extension with socket flipped over to use the back side to drive it in the pilot bushing hole can get distorting the center hole if the pilot bushing is not driven in straight the first time. Then the trans snout may not fit in and have trouble installing the trans snout binding going into the bushing.

Orich
 
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Old Apr 3, 2016 | 12:42 AM
  #21  
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You're getting there!
 
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Old Apr 4, 2016 | 10:20 PM
  #22  
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Took a look inside the trans...3rd gear has gouging all down the middle and 1st is worn on one side. Was a little low on oil too. I guess I'll have to pony up and do a rebuild...
I did get a retainer ordered for the input shaft. It's a remake but only ran me $40. So we'll see how it holds up.

3rd


1st
 
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Old Apr 4, 2016 | 11:30 PM
  #23  
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Someone must have be shifting with out a clutch that never mastered it getting it in with out a little grinding now & then..

Ps my earlier post #20 I think, I gave to the wrong size of 3/4 I.D of the pilot bushing.

As I may have mixed it up with my thinking with a dodge tranny input pilot bushing size so it may be 5/8" but better check it. Sorry for my error,
Orich
 
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 01:07 AM
  #24  
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If that's the original tranny, then it wasn't too bad for it's age. But fix it now and then you'll know that it will last another 40-50 years.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2016 | 06:39 PM
  #25  
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Made some good progress today. Got the new clutch and the trans installed, Changed two u- joints before installing the drive shaft, and got the rag joint switched out.
Decided not to rebuild the trans. The damage wasn't that bad and there were no metal shavings in the old oil, and those gears arent cheap lol. I just put in new oil and an input retaining shaft. It ran through all the gears perfectly. I'm just gunna keep my eye out for another on Craigslist/junkyard to rebuild in my free time and if this one ever does crap out I'll have a backup.
Next up on the list is redoing all the brakes.
Thanks for the help so far everyone

Out of the barn!
 
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 12:40 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Thinlizzy13
Made some good progress today. Got the new clutch and the trans installed, Changed two u- joints before installing the drive shaft, and got the rag joint switched out.
Decided not to rebuild the trans. The damage wasn't that bad and there were no metal shavings in the old oil, and those gears arent cheap lol. I just put in new oil and an input retaining shaft. It ran through all the gears perfectly. I'm just gunna keep my eye out for another on Craigslist/junkyard to rebuild in my free time and if this one ever does crap out I'll have a backup.
Next up on the list is redoing all the brakes.
Thanks for the help so far everyone

Out of the barn!
Congrats. Looks like your rig did a "Jailbreak".
 
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 12:19 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
Congrats. Looks like your rig did a "Jailbreak".
Good catch, Got to get it ready for when the boys are back in town

Moved the truck from the barn back to my house so I could do small things during the week, maybe sneak in a drive here and there
All the hard brake lines are solid, the rubber ones are Okay but will need to be switched out. The brakes work pretty good. Gotta have a couple rotors turned and will put new shoes in.

Greased all the steering components, put in some new points and a condenser, regapped the plugs, and rechecked the timing. I think the truck is running a tad rich - it came from 6k ft elevation down to sea level, but it runs so darn well I don't want to fiddle with the carb!
 
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 08:46 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Thinlizzy13
Good catch, Got to get it ready for when the boys are back in town

Moved the truck from the barn back to my house so I could do small things during the week, maybe sneak in a drive here and there
All the hard brake lines are solid, the rubber ones are Okay but will need to be switched out. The brakes work pretty good. Gotta have a couple rotors turned and will put new shoes in.

Greased all the steering components, put in some new points and a condenser, regapped the plugs, and rechecked the timing. I think the truck is running a tad rich - it came from 6k ft elevation down to sea level, but it runs so darn well I don't want to fiddle with the carb!
I think your richness thinking about higher altitude and jetting is backwards.
Higher the altitude the smaller the jets are used.

May be you need a new air filter or adjust the carb air/fuel or the float is to high will correct any over rich condition. I'd do a complete tune up.
Read the spark plug coloring for over rich carb..
It's possible it's just the choke in need of a little adjustment.

Plus are cheap and really not worth the trouble of & time trying to clean them. It's like doing a half of a tune up, also replace with new spark plug wires. Or measure the ohms of each wire with an ohm meter is the only way that shows the resistances for each should all be close to each other.

Orich
 
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 05:03 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by orich
I think your richness thinking about higher altitude and jetting is backwards.
Higher the altitude the smaller the jets are used.

May be you need a new air filter or adjust the carb air/fuel or the float is to high will correct any over rich condition. I'd do a complete tune up.
Read the spark plug coloring for over rich carb..
It's possible it's just the choke in need of a little adjustment.

Plus are cheap and really not worth the trouble of & time trying to clean them. It's like doing a half of a tune up, also replace with new spark plug wires. Or measure the ohms of each wire with an ohm meter is the only way that shows the resistances for each should all be close to each other.

Orich
Thanks Orich, I confused myself with the altitude thing, and that wouldn't make sense for it to be running rich. Oops.
My old air filter was disgusting and definitely clogged up. I ordered one last Friday and put it on today. I also have new Motorcraft BRF42 plugs on their way right now and new wires. I just had some time to kill so I figured I'd regap the plugs in it til the new ones came.
As for a complete tune up, a dwell/tach and vacuum gauge are on my list of things to get. Once I get those ill set it to factory specs. I got to look at the carb again but I believe it has the high altitude jets in it...

Until I get the new plugs here's some pics of my plugs before and after the regap. (These are before the new air filter). They are Autolite Plantinums and I'm a complete novice at reading plugs unless they're obviously fouled/pitted.

Before - all plugs were gapped at .44-.47. I know factory plugs are supposed to be .35, and when I looked up these plugs it said they were supposed to come gapped .35

Too hot?




After 30 miles all regapped to .35

 
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 07:36 PM
  #30  
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Here a chart for ya.
A compression test should really be done first so you'll now the condition of each cylinder..
Orich

Verrill: Plug Color Chart
 
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