Those rusty brake lines
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Those rusty brake lines
I've read some threads on rusty brake lines and replacing them. I'm just wondering if I'm getting a normal deal from my trusty mechanic or not. Blew a rear brake line. Mechanic replaced both rear lines, had to replace both wheel cylinders because he coulnd't move the bleeders. That job was 420 bucks. Now a front line went. Replace both front lines, bleeders on calipers are frozen so he's replacing them, rotors can't be turned, replace them, brakes shot, replace pads. With labor 700 plus tax. Does this sound like normal prices for this or is he ripping me off? I know that since this vehicle is a 92 it's time for this stuff and you can not mess around when it comes to having brakes work properly. Just looking for opinions on these prices.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Far Hills, NJ
Those rusty brake lines
This sounds like normal prices. He is replacing a lot of parts... a whole new braking system plus new lines.
I replaced the front lines myself (got them at NAPA for less than $20), but then took it to a garage to have the system bled (which cost me $75). The bleeders were stuck, but they heated them up and were able to get them off. Your mechanic chose to just replace the whole caliper (he might have snapped off the bleeder and had no choice).
I replaced the front lines myself (got them at NAPA for less than $20), but then took it to a garage to have the system bled (which cost me $75). The bleeders were stuck, but they heated them up and were able to get them off. Your mechanic chose to just replace the whole caliper (he might have snapped off the bleeder and had no choice).
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Joined: Jan 2003
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Those rusty brake lines
You do not have to replace the calipers and rear pistons just because you can't open the bleeders! Use the banjo bolts on the front and crack open the brake line in the back. have an assistant push on the brake pedal and bleed the lines slowly, the little bit of air that will be left will not affect its ability to stop you, And lots cheaper.
My opinion, Your getting ripped off bigtime. Your brakes worked before you went in (except the rear brake line blowout) right?
You do not need new calipers, you need an honest mechanic.
Just my $.02
My opinion, Your getting ripped off bigtime. Your brakes worked before you went in (except the rear brake line blowout) right?
You do not need new calipers, you need an honest mechanic.
Just my $.02
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Those rusty brake lines
Well both times to the shop it was towed because of a rear and then front line that was blown. Yeah he replaced parts because he could not move the bleeders. I think it's kind of pricey though. Like maybe 80% labor costs here. Another thing is that I usually do my own brake work except for cases like this, rusted lines I just can't get to, or if I can't pound a stuck drum off. I've done many brake jobs over the years, and man I just hate to have to take it to somebody and pay these prices.
Last edited by BK63; Aug 12, 2003 at 03:31 PM.
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From: Live Oak, FL
Those rusty brake lines
I would sure get a second opinion if it's not too late. If you can do your own work, I'd pull the calipers and rotors and take them to a machine shop. They can tell if they are any good or not, and should be able to get the bleeder out so you can replace it and turn the rotors for about $10.00 or less each or get new rotors from an auto parts store for about $25.00 ea. If you do it yourself be sure to check and replace/pack the wheel bearings.
Last edited by Bubba Shrimp; Aug 12, 2003 at 03:55 PM.
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Those rusty brake lines
Let me know if I am getting ripped off. I think I already know the answer. Here's my story. I was coming home one day my foot went to the floor, I wanted to try and make it home but smoke started to roll from under the hood. Luckly (not) Iwas right next to a ford dealer. Put the fire out there (Small). Long and short of it is Front line blew fluid all over the manifolds. To repair the line it was $150.00. Then one thing led into another. Cross over line needed replacement and one other line from the master cylinder and the RABS valve (Rear Anti Lock VAlve). So my grand total is 851.00. Every thing was just very rusty and I was aware of that. I just cant get over the price.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Far Hills, NJ
Those rusty brake lines
Well, anytime you bring a vehicle to a 'stealership', you'll get hammered, unless it is for some standard procedure like an oil change which is for a set price.
I *once* made the mistake of going to the dealer to diagnose a dead battery. They charged me $150 to put in a new Motorcraft battery. The next day, it was dead. I replaced the faulty alternator that was the real problem, called the dealer to complain, and they said "too bad...".
The brake lines rust out especially at the inner frame mounting point just below the master cylinder. That point collects dirt and salt and sooner or later, the lines rust out. My wife was pulling a horse trailer into the yard when the same thing you describe happened to her... the pedal went to the floor. Thankfully, she had the presence of mind to push the E-brake.
You weren't paying for parts... the lines cost practically nothing... it was the labor (here it is $90/hr.). It is an easy job to do yourself, but then you have to have the inclination to do so.
I *once* made the mistake of going to the dealer to diagnose a dead battery. They charged me $150 to put in a new Motorcraft battery. The next day, it was dead. I replaced the faulty alternator that was the real problem, called the dealer to complain, and they said "too bad...".
The brake lines rust out especially at the inner frame mounting point just below the master cylinder. That point collects dirt and salt and sooner or later, the lines rust out. My wife was pulling a horse trailer into the yard when the same thing you describe happened to her... the pedal went to the floor. Thankfully, she had the presence of mind to push the E-brake.
You weren't paying for parts... the lines cost practically nothing... it was the labor (here it is $90/hr.). It is an easy job to do yourself, but then you have to have the inclination to do so.
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Those rusty brake lines
The only reason this thing went to the garage is that I didn't think I could get those rusty lines off and reach everything. From readin this board it seems a lot of people replace their own lines. Had I known all these lines were going to need to be replaced I would have ordered complete stainless system and just taken my time and done the whole thing myself, even if I had to replace calipers and wheel cylinders. Even with a stainless kit, it still would not have cost me a total of over 1100 bucks.
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
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Those rusty brake lines
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2003
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Those rusty brake lines
Needa New Trk,
Let me show you some prices I was just charged. Loaded calipers, which means the caliper has brake pads with them, 75 bucks a piece, I looked up the same part at the local auto parts store for 25 bucks. Rotors, again by exact part number listed, they charged me 83 bucks a piece, 42 dollars in the auto parts store. Yeah mechanics rip you off I would say. I am going to attempt to fix everything I can myself from now on.
Let me show you some prices I was just charged. Loaded calipers, which means the caliper has brake pads with them, 75 bucks a piece, I looked up the same part at the local auto parts store for 25 bucks. Rotors, again by exact part number listed, they charged me 83 bucks a piece, 42 dollars in the auto parts store. Yeah mechanics rip you off I would say. I am going to attempt to fix everything I can myself from now on.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Michigan
Those rusty brake lines
hey let's not point the blame at the mechanics. there are a lot of honest ones. It's the shops that set the prices re: to the $90 per hour the mechanic isn't getting that money it goes to pay for insurance, lights, heat, and other benefits. just like in a factory. so let's not beat up the actual mechanics but the middle man in the rocking chair.
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Those rusty brake lines
This guy is a one man shop. He works alone. I can't complalin too much because I know he does the job right. But when he charges me double what the parts actually are I just think that's a little too much. I can see some markup so he can make something off the parts too, But when he charges me 83 dollars for a rotor that is 42 that's just a bit high. 75 for a caliper that is 25. I can see 10 or 15 bucks tacked on but that's pushin it.
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Those rusty brake lines
Avoid that situation completly! Find out what parts you need and buy them yourself. That way the warranty is your name and not your mechanics. Also, If your mechanic will not do the job because you brought the parts in, find another mechanic.
My opinion: Mechanics are paid to do the experienced labor. Rates do not say $XX per/hr labor + XX% markup on parts + parts, They say $XX per/hr labor + parts period. If you bring the parts, labor and maybe fluids and filters should be the only other charge, but I usually bring those too. Much cheaper and you get the warranty reciept not the mechanic.
My opinion: Mechanics are paid to do the experienced labor. Rates do not say $XX per/hr labor + XX% markup on parts + parts, They say $XX per/hr labor + parts period. If you bring the parts, labor and maybe fluids and filters should be the only other charge, but I usually bring those too. Much cheaper and you get the warranty reciept not the mechanic.
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Those rusty brake lines
I'm gong to invest in some specialty tools and do this myself from now on. Maybe the brake flare tool, mightyvac bleeder, fuel/ac coupler release tools and such will sit on the shelf in the garage but at least they will be there when I need them. The markup on parts from a mechanic is just rediculous.
Posting Guru
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From: Live Oak, FL
Those rusty brake lines
Nornal markup is 30 - 40%. This guy is charging 200 to 300%. A little much, I think.
For what this guy charged you could buy three sets of tools and still save money.
For what this guy charged you could buy three sets of tools and still save money.
Last edited by Bubba Shrimp; Aug 14, 2003 at 08:41 AM.