IL keep the doghouse offer in mind, and I appreciate it. I'm not sure on fit,net through the model years though. Mines a 1992 and I'd be surprised if an 84 would drop in. Plus I have to figure out what to do about the switch panel that's made to fit into my current doghouse.

 

I'm not sure that Banks and Hyoermax aren't apples and oranges. At best it seems that even within the brands numbers are all over the place. Crushing on the highway at 65 I might see 2psi or so now depending on the terrain. Temps run anywhere from 700-900 just cruising and again, depending on the terrain. And that's with nothing more than rolling hills, not big grades and major climbs. Romping on it uphill I might bust 7psi. Speaking of which....


I went to Summit today and bought a bunch of 3" to redo my exhaust. I'm not sure if what came out was original, but it was Ford factory. Scrap pile!

It was a whole bunch of eyeballin and cuttin and eyeballin and cuttin, with the hardest part being the axle hump back. Got it done in the end but ended up I 3" clamp short and at that I had to run to the local Autodrone to pick up what they had, and of course all they had left was $10 a pop SS, and 1 short. I had to bust out my welder and try my hand at welding tube laying on my back in order to get the turn-out fastened in place. Went ahead and welded on all the hangers while I was at it.

Not 100% sure but I'll bet there's some leaks at the clamped joints because the tube fitment didn't seen all that precise and I don't think I could crank on the clamps hard enough to seal them up. Check that later and if I have to I'll pull the clamps and weld the joints.


It definitely made a difference. Top end boost only climbed 1 or 2 psi at most but it comes on sooner and easier than before. In the beginning I pretty much had to WOT to see any at all. And I can feel it finally. It's starting to feel like it can pull its own weight around with a bit of cushion. Pre turbo it was a complete slug, even after the gear change. Prior to the gear change it was a slow slug.

There's a hill I have to pull every day when I leave my house and I could never maintain speed up that hill. Mashed to the floor it would still dump speed until it downshifted. Now I can accelerate up that hill in top gear with pedal left over. Woot! Or whatever the hell young people are saying these days.

Next up is I'm going to buy that Ferret adapter and have a go at the timing. Really hoping I get some more out of it that way.

 

NICE! I remember doing that for the first time with my turbo kit installed. It was amazing. I think I actually lost some average MPG, because I spent the first few months with my new turbo blasting up California hills at 70mph, powering off the stop line, and burning it up highway on-ramps.

Eventually I realized I was wasting MPG and money, and I try to slow down a little.

 

Took it out for a roadtrip the other day, about 275 miles, and gotta say the fuel mileage blows great big goats. It wasn't the best weather, with head winds, tail winds, wind from every direction and low rolling hills down and back, but I'm kinda disappointed that I could pull 11 mpg under any highway condition. Prior to the turbo I was getting 13-14.

I'm kicking around giving the timing an adjust even though I dont have the Ferret adapter yet. It was a bit disheartening.

 

Something sounds way off. My 088 with a HUGE leak pre-turbo (can feel it on my face laying on the ground under the truck while idling) and was making 6psi with a stock NA pump way retarded. Turned up 2 flats and advanced will make 12psi. Going to 4" exhaust helped on mine as well, gained 3-4psi at WOT with the old setup. Im also having a really hard time geting better than 13-14mpg

 

I don't think I have any leakage, at least not significant, because it's boosting better now than the day I finished and the only thing I've changed is the new exhaust. It was slowly improving even before then. I think my up pipes might have been leaking in the beginning and have since sealed.

I lost track of my fuel,screw honestly, It took so much drinking around. When I finally found the right tool combo to allow me to turn it pretty sure I got a solid two flats, but up till the it was anywhere from none to one, for a total of somewhere between 2 and 3.

Smoke is almost non existent. It's a bit hard to spot from the drivers eat in this big *** Ambo but as far as I can tell if I romp on it hard I get a small puff of black that's pretty much gone instantly. No rolling coal by any stretch.

Not sure where to go from here right now. More flats till I start to see smoke? Leave that alone and do the poor mans timing adjustment to see what happens? Both? I will get the proper timing gear ordered tomorrow, but patience is not exactly my strong suit anymore so I don't know if I can wait.

Any thoughts/suggestions?

 

If in your shoes, i would max the pump and then have the timing checked with a meter. The turbo should clean up as much fuel as a stock pump will throw at it. If the EGTs run hotter than you like, you can always turn it down some.

 

I agree. Turn it up a lot just for shizzles and gizzles. It'll give you a spectrum of what your turbo can handle. I turned mine up til it was rolling coal, then came back a half flat. Then, after I realized my MPG was trashed, I turned it back another half. THen I used the timing gun to adjust the timing over a few weeks, testing the MPG with each drive. That was the only way to figure out the optimal MPG, cuz Hypermax's timing suggestions were garbage. Keep tweaking it, you'll figure out the best. You probably don't really need the gun, you could just count threads on the turn buckle (like in my youtube video). THen do test drives until you get more efficiency. The timing gun really just tells you the degrees, but that doesn't really help you other than just being able to say, it's at x degrees.

 

You got a link to said video, or is it in this thread?

 

 

I've been making up the wrenches and turnbuckle do-dah to adjust the timing but I'm a bit unclear on something.

Assume I'm all set up, everything is loose, do-dah in place. Assume my timing is -8 (approx. factory, correct?) and I want to go to say -6-ish. I need to adjust do-dah to make the 3/4" wrench go which direction, as viewed from front of engine?

 

In the video at minute 3:00, it tells you which way to turn the IP to advance or retard the engine.

drivers side = retard engine
passenger side = advance

Remember, turning the 3/4" wrench as much as 1/2" at the end of rotation can adjust the timing as much as 10 degrees. It is VERY sensitive. I would turn the turnbuckle to move the end of the 3/4" wrench as little as 1/16" to 1/8" just to get it to pull a couple degrees. Anything less than that was pretty negligible once you got the IP nuts back tightened down.

In my sig are multiple test runs of my van at various degrees of timing. I drove for 50+ miles to test the MPG. Not super scientific, but it was enough to find the sweet spot and get the most power and efficiency out of my IP and turbo kit. Justin from R&D just visited me (to deliver the head-studs-----i can't wait to torque those down in the van) and he said tuning the engine on your own was the best way to find the sweet spot. I'm tempted to rig up a clear fuel container so I can get a much more accurate fuel consumption test than just pouring in the tank and hoping its about the same.

 

I've watched, and that's where I'm getting confused. Is going from -8 to -4 advancing or retarding? It's been a long time since I've dinked around with timing.

 

Please disregard that previous dumb *** question. Overthinking something so freakin basic and getting my addled old self confused.

 

Adjusting done, sort of. Results, inconclusive.


I tried adjusting the IP. My special bent/ground wrench for doing the passenger side bolt didn't work and I fudged with it a long time thinking I just was getting at it the right way. It's a box end ground thin, but that wasn't the problem. The OD of the box end was too big and hitting part of the pump, not letting the wrench drop over the bolt head. Cut a chunk out of the box end and now it works ok.

I could only adjust pump a minimal amount. I'm assuming the injector lines were binding it up and I didn't a lot the time for dinking with all of those. There were two timing lines scribed that were offset by about 1/16-1/8". Hard to tell through a mirror. I adjusted enough so those lines are pretty much lined up now.


I tried adjusting the fuel screw but couldn't get it done. I had a tiny pair of vice grips on the Allen wrench and couldn't get that screw to turn. I was cranking hard enough I started to be concerned about breakage or stripping the screw. I can't believe it's maxed out. My initial adjustment post turbo install was maybe 2 1/2 flats tops.

Anyway with my new sort of and non-adjustments not much seems to have changed performance wise, but EGTs do seem to come up faster and higher for a given load compared to pre-adjustment. No idea on mileage. Just got it buttoned up and quick test run.

Next time I think I'll loosen up the injector lines, but not sure which way I should go with the timing. More retard, or head the other direction and put some more advance it in over the factory setting?

How do you know you've gone too far, either direction?