Help, truck won't start (video attached)
#1
Help, truck won't start (video attached)
Okay, so I have a 95 F350 7.3l with just under 300,000 miles. A little recent background. Only been really using the truck to haul my horse around and this past Thursday we drove to Arizona from Las Vegas about 110 miles pulling my horse trailer, vehicle started and drove down perfectly fine. Started fine the next day then got back home Friday late. Got up Saturday morning to start the truck and it would not start! Replaced the CPS today had it plugged in all night and it's still won't start. It's making a sounds like it wants to start but doesn't have the fuel. Both tanks are full. Could the CPS I got be bad or should possibly try changing the fuel filter and pump? The video attached is it trying to start. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
#3
The video sounds to me like you gave it to much starting fluid, which is a bad idea on an engine with glow plugs. If you haven't used starting fluid, the batteries or starter are getting weak. These engines need to spin over fast. It may be time to get the batteries load tested. Test batteries one at a time, not hooked together.
#4
Sounds to me that the batteries are going bad or the starter is dragging. Load test battery one at the time and if they are ok, it is time to replace the starter.
As for the starter fluid.....Please do NOT use it on a diesel with glow plugs. You can destroy an engine with that stuff at the worst, next it will burn up the glow plugs at the least.
If you must use starter fluid please wait one minute after the glow plug relay has timed out.
just my .02 cents worth
As for the starter fluid.....Please do NOT use it on a diesel with glow plugs. You can destroy an engine with that stuff at the worst, next it will burn up the glow plugs at the least.
If you must use starter fluid please wait one minute after the glow plug relay has timed out.
just my .02 cents worth
#7
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#8
Thanks you guys, There will be no more using starter fluid, I should have known better. Anyways, we had replaced one of the batteries yesterday that was really old, will be taking in the other battery to get it tested, since it's 3 years old already just out of warranty. I tried it this morning after it being plugged in all night and it didn't have any power to crank over. Will let you guys know if it fixes it, if not I'll be looking at the starter.
#9
Batteries
It is always best to replace both batteries at the same time. The old battery will kill the new one sooner than later.
I know how hard it is to drop that type of money into batteries and then spend more money on a starter.
Don't ask me how I know........LOL
I did find a new starter at Napa not a rebuilt one for less than $200.00 but that was 2 years ago.
Good luck
I know how hard it is to drop that type of money into batteries and then spend more money on a starter.
Don't ask me how I know........LOL
I did find a new starter at Napa not a rebuilt one for less than $200.00 but that was 2 years ago.
Good luck
#10
Okay, so I have a 95 F350 7.3l with just under 300,000 miles. A little recent background. Only been really using the truck to haul my horse around and this past Thursday we drove to Arizona from Las Vegas about 110 miles pulling my horse trailer, vehicle started and drove down perfectly fine. Started fine the next day then got back home Friday late. Got up Saturday morning to start the truck and it would not start! Replaced the CPS today had it plugged in all night and it's still won't start. It's making a sounds like it wants to start but doesn't have the fuel. Both tanks are full. Could the CPS I got be bad or should possibly try changing the fuel filter and pump? The video attached is it trying to start. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
It will likely not start at that draw level... Hopefully the batteries will take a charge. Plugging it in will not help charge them. Considering they are drained down that low, I'd also check the alternator to make sure its charging properly.
If you are replacing the batteries, get a quality battery that is sized properly for the truck. Typical is 1000 CA and 850 CCA per battery. The cheapest/best solution are the Motorcrafts that can be found at any oreilly typically. They are cheaper than the garbage SS brand from oreilly and average 4-5 years in a PSD. AGM batteries are twice the cost but also worth it. Not may people want to spend 550 on a set of AGMs though.
Put the ether away and do not use it anymore. its horrible for these motors and will blow the airbox clean off the truck.
You likely were unable to get a ford motorcraft CPS. Autoparts store CPS units that are not motorcraft are typically garbage. If you get home, change it back out for an OE unit.
Best of luck... its in the 60s there so even if the GPs are not working the truck should still start due to the ambient warmth temperature, being plugged in....
#11
Both batteries I got are Interstate batteries. And yes the CPS was from autozone, so I put in an order in at Ford that my husband works at to get the Motorcraft CPS which will arrive tomorrow. Both batteries are at 12.6v with key off and 10.5v when turning the key to crank the engine over. So I'm gonna get the Motorcraft CPS put in first then go on from there.
#12
#13
Are you still running batteries of different ages? As said above, replace in pairs.
Voltage test means little to nothing, and means absolutely nothing if you're measuring while they're connected. You need to LOAD test them, and measurements should be taken with batteries isolated (see above).
At the RPMs heard in the video, it's a toss-up between batteries and starter. Battery load test (or just replacing the other battery so the two are matched) would be the more expedient next step.
Even if the CPS is not at fault, I would swap in the Motorcraft one when it arrives. You can throw the AZ one in the glove box as a spare, but I wouldn't rely on it day in / day out.
Voltage test means little to nothing, and means absolutely nothing if you're measuring while they're connected. You need to LOAD test them, and measurements should be taken with batteries isolated (see above).
At the RPMs heard in the video, it's a toss-up between batteries and starter. Battery load test (or just replacing the other battery so the two are matched) would be the more expedient next step.
Even if the CPS is not at fault, I would swap in the Motorcraft one when it arrives. You can throw the AZ one in the glove box as a spare, but I wouldn't rely on it day in / day out.
#14
Are you still running batteries of different ages? As said above, replace in pairs.
Voltage test means little to nothing, and means absolutely nothing if you're measuring while they're connected. You need to LOAD test them, and measurements should be taken with batteries isolated (see above).
At the RPMs heard in the video, it's a toss-up between batteries and starter. Battery load test (or just replacing the other battery so the two are matched) would be the more expedient next step.
Even if the CPS is not at fault, I would swap in the Motorcraft one when it arrives. You can throw the AZ one in the glove box as a spare, but I wouldn't rely on it day in / day out.
Voltage test means little to nothing, and means absolutely nothing if you're measuring while they're connected. You need to LOAD test them, and measurements should be taken with batteries isolated (see above).
At the RPMs heard in the video, it's a toss-up between batteries and starter. Battery load test (or just replacing the other battery so the two are matched) would be the more expedient next step.
Even if the CPS is not at fault, I would swap in the Motorcraft one when it arrives. You can throw the AZ one in the glove box as a spare, but I wouldn't rely on it day in / day out.
#15