Temporary paint opinions
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Posting Guru
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From: Sunny Florida
Temporary paint opinions
My project trucks engine has gone wayyyy over budget, so I will be sporting a flat black paint job for the foreseeable future unless I hit the lotto tonight. So here is my question for you fellas...
When I get this thing painted, I am stripping it to bare metal and having each panel base coated, then assembled, painted, cleared, ect..
So, should I prime the truck before painting this thing, or just go ahead and paint it since it's coming off shortly anyway? I guess the third option would be black cab, greenish door and fenders and a prime red bed with a black tailgate and sport it Roadkill style?
When I get this thing painted, I am stripping it to bare metal and having each panel base coated, then assembled, painted, cleared, ect..
So, should I prime the truck before painting this thing, or just go ahead and paint it since it's coming off shortly anyway? I guess the third option would be black cab, greenish door and fenders and a prime red bed with a black tailgate and sport it Roadkill style?
Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2011
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This may be come as a shock to you, but painting a truck isn't free. Wait till you can afford it, then go for it. If you go to bare metal be sure and treat it before priming. I use a product called Ospho to treat the metal. Etches and gets rid or any surface rust. My advice is to save up 3-4 hundred before starting to think about refinishing, and that's if it's a DYI project.
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From: Sunny Florida
This may be come as a shock to you, but painting a truck isn't free. Wait till you can afford it, then go for it. If you go to bare metal be sure and treat it before priming. I use a product called Ospho to treat the metal. Etches and gets rid or any surface rust. My advice is to save up 3-4 hundred before starting to think about refinishing, and that's if it's a DYI project.
My question is more about if it is worth it to temporary paint it, or should I just leave it multi colored.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: O-O-O-Oreilly's
Paint alone is $800... That not including any body work. This is why the post is about temporary painting, meaning spray can or the CL guys $200 flat black paint job.
My question is more about if it is worth it to temporary paint it, or should I just leave it multi colored.
My question is more about if it is worth it to temporary paint it, or should I just leave it multi colored.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 794
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From: between lost and found
Paint alone is $800... That not including any body work. This is why the post is about temporary painting, meaning spray can or the CL guys $200 flat black paint job.
My question is more about if it is worth it to temporary paint it, or should I just leave it multi colored.
My question is more about if it is worth it to temporary paint it, or should I just leave it multi colored.
Not sure what kinda paint costs $800
I'm repainting my truck, so far my cost has been
$40 in rattle can primer,
$90 for a gallon of upol poly primer,(with hardner and reducer)
$60 for a sand paper kit from my local auto paint supplier,
and they quoted me $500 for DuPont with hardener and reducer two stage
(base coat,clear coat)
been doing most everything here at the house,but been using my local JC
(taking a class to spray) {$165, and all the tool i want to use
}All in All, I figure to come in under $900 final total investment
I've seen places online that sell paint for as cheep as $200 (with hardener/reducer)
just depends on what you want,ie color style etc.
Elder User
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From: between lost and found
teasin ya dewd....
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2015
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From: Dallas, OR
It really comes down to your pride/ OCD/ personal preference- if it can't handle the rainbow truck, then rattle can it. Based on other's recommendations, maybe Plasti Dip because it is easy enough to remove later? Otherwise, do what Dewd said and just keep it from rusting and save the money that you would have spent towards the cost of the final paint job. Personally, it would drive me nuts, but I would leave it and save up if it were mine.
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 475
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From: Vermont
Questioning the cost of paint products? A quality body shop will use quality products. Top of the line products are VERY expensive.When doing work for a customer you NEED to use the best stuff/products you can, as the customer deserves a LONG LASTING,durable quality job and as a body shop you don't need future problems. I purchased 1) quart of NCP271 Ditzler primer and 1) gallon of DT 885 reducer last week as I was running low . My sales receipt said $165.75 !!! My cost!! So, $800 for materials on a quality overall paint job? Sounds like the shop was attempting to make a small profit,if any, on his paint products. And yes, of course, you can go to Tractor Supply,the hardware store etc.,and get cheaper paints that work if you are a do-it-your-selfer but a professional shop can't take a chance on a WEAK LINK in the layers/coats of painting. A slight view from the other side of the fence. gary
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
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I really like Rustoleum satin black industrial enamel. It has a semi flat appearance and is very forgiving yet is smooth enough that it is easy to clean. A couple gallons from the home improvement store would do it.
For prep, wash well. Use solvent, preferably grease and wax remover, to remove any wax and sand lightly with 220 or 180. Any rough spots can be sanded heavier and spot primed. Red Rustoleum primer in the rattle can will set up in about 1/2 hour for topcoat. Or spray regular red Rustoleum and allow at least a day to dry.
Then mask and shoot it. I reduce the Rustoleum with paint thinner until it sprays well on a test piece... probably around 20% but mostly by trial and error.
Time or better a few days in the sun will help the Rustoleum harden up... it gets pretty tough but takes a while.
FWIW you could do similar with a Rustoleum gloss color. It would take at least one full prime coat + more sanding before and after prime to get a decent result.
I really like one color also and black can be nice.
For prep, wash well. Use solvent, preferably grease and wax remover, to remove any wax and sand lightly with 220 or 180. Any rough spots can be sanded heavier and spot primed. Red Rustoleum primer in the rattle can will set up in about 1/2 hour for topcoat. Or spray regular red Rustoleum and allow at least a day to dry.
Then mask and shoot it. I reduce the Rustoleum with paint thinner until it sprays well on a test piece... probably around 20% but mostly by trial and error.
Time or better a few days in the sun will help the Rustoleum harden up... it gets pretty tough but takes a while.
FWIW you could do similar with a Rustoleum gloss color. It would take at least one full prime coat + more sanding before and after prime to get a decent result.
I really like one color also and black can be nice.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: O-O-O-Oreilly's
As far as Tractor Supply paint is concerned, I have used the stuff before and I will be painting my truck with it. I used it on a boat trailer and it has held up for years now. Pretty tough stuff.
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Posting Guru
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From: Sunny Florida
My new paint guy will get this cheaper.
The point of this post is not a dispute over the cost of paint, or bitching about the cost of labor, it is a simple question of...
Flat black for $200 or as is until I can afford to have it painted right.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
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From: Sunny Florida
I think this is what I am gonna end up doing so that I can get it on the road and work the bugs out prior to final paint.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Seattle
Most of the work of painting is prepping. Spraying additional coats on will only make the final paint job more difficult to do later, and depending on what you use could make it even more likely to fail prematurely. I can understand the temptation, but I would leave it alone until time to do it right.