Ok my tranny let me down 2 weeks ago. Wouldn't shift to high, so eased it home about 30 miles. Pulled pan and found some fine metal shavings in pan. Fluid looked good color wise didn't smell burnt. Anyway when you 1st cranked it it would go forward and also worked in reverse. For 2 minutes go to park and then nothing at all. Cut it off and drank back and worked again. I mean spin the duals so I didn't feel like it was a slippage issue. Pulled tranny after reading a lot of info and this and that could be wrong. Honestly think I have read too much. Lol

Tore it down because of the no lock up code we retrieved. Wasn't sure how many miles were on it, bought it with 203k and now it's 228k

Found a few things inside that I didn't like:

1. The 3 bolts that hold center section the front one was only finger tight, figured I may be losing line pressure there?
2. The o/d clutches were toast.
3. The valve body had some wear to one side.

Anyway we went thru it and replaced anything that needed it.

Also installed a triple disc billet converter.

Maybe this thing will hold up now?

It has the 6.0 cooler conversion on it, so I knew somebody had been in tranny before. Wasn't the Ford gaskets as you would find in a factory one.

It also had repeat had a inline magnetic trains filter on return line. And just what I thought I would find when I cut it open. Did away with that and just ran the 1/2 lines to the factory steel lines.

Pulled and installed with floor jack by myself now have back problems. Lol

What a job by yourself laying on your back.

Also replaced the input shaft as it was a little wavy in the splines.

 

Also what's everyone's thoughts on temp sending unit location. It was previously in the test port shown in pic's. I hear put it in the pan, put it in line, put it in test port. I put it back where it was so I could tell if my rebuild lowered Temps any? Was running around 170-180 loaded if it was a long hard pull maybe 195 never did get over 200 until it wouldn't go into high gear, it worked it's way up to 200 and I made it home about 30mph.

 

I think the test port is the best place to put the sender.

 

How difficult is rebuilding it? Is it pretty straight forward and something that a good shade tree mechanic can do? I've worked on a lot of stuff, torn down Cummins 400 to the bones and rebuilt, same with GMC 350 gasser. Should I be able to do a tranny too?

 

A stock rebuild is fairly easy, but there are certain components, such as mentioned above, that need close inspection to avoid problems. When you upgrade clutches, such as increased counts, setting proper clearances are very important. Many times adjustments/modifications need to be made. Most repair manuals, such as the ATSG, "only touch the surface'' when it comes to proper rebuild information. There are many key points that ATSG doesn't even mention and mods that will increase longevity and reliability.

 

Thanks Mark!

That's where I'm gonna leave it.

 

Well glad to report that the build so far is a major improvement over what I had. Shifts good and think I figured out the DP Tuner? Shows 1- stock, 2- 80hp tow, 3- 60 hp Econ, 4- 80 hp Econ, 5- 120 hp race.

Noticed in the 2 position when you slow down it takes over and gears trans down almost like an engine brake. Wasn't expecting this so kinda surprised me. Took it for a test of about 100 miles and trans temp never got over 135.

If I have 80 hp in 2 position I will tow with it there. I was using the 4 position before. Will update soon.

 

Mine used to coast when you let off the accelerator, then I put in a BTS Valvebody and had DP tune for it and all my tunes gear down like that. Maybe your trucks previous owner only wanted it on the tow tune.

 

Very possible I am the 5th owner but have a Binder full of receipts and service work. Just didn't find anything on DP Tuner but those #'s and settings on a sheet of paper. 3rd owner was military and moved around because of the paperwork I found same phone # different states. Thought about calling him and maybe shedding some light but I have most of it figured out.

 

I am jealous that you know how to do a rebuild by yourself.
Way to go.

 

When I first installed my BTS trans, I was having an issue where it would downshift in the 80HP performance tune when slowing down to a stop. I called PHP to discuss and they said it shouldn't do that, and it wasn't written into the program. After further discussion, it was determined that I didn't load the 80HP for a modified VB and it was suspected that some sort of conflict may be causing it. I loaded the 80HP Modified VB program and it went away. Based on what mine was doing I would check with your tuner just to be sure.

 

I have contacted Jody @ DP and explained my needs and he is going to check the chip and re-write if needed

 

I kept downshift in all my DP custom live tunes. It was harsh, at times, due the fact I had the "on-off" TransGo TC lock up conversion and I increased clutch counts. Normally, the TC PW duty cycle can be reduced while the quickly unlocks, then locks, to reduce the shock during the downshift. Mine was akin to the feeling of popping a manual trans clutch while downshifting. With the "on-off" valve, there was no "feathering" of the TC clutch. I learned to lift off the accelerator pedal when it reached the point of downshift as I liked keeping the TC locked to aid in slowing down on hill decents, especially when towing.

 

I second that, hat is off to you sir. I will do just about anything when it comes to working on our trucks but the transmission is the one thing i dont mess with and am too afraid to mess up. So i paid to have mine rebuilt when it went out.

 

Update:

Pulled 3 cars today about 28k lbs. and trans did great 160 degrees is all it got and shifts a lot smoother than when I bought it. My # 2 setting on the DP Tune has a decel on it and it holds in gear longer for towing.