Hi, I'm new here to the forum because I'm in the market for a 80-86 and I have a few questions.

First off, what's the "best" year for a bullnose? I've heard some people say they don't like some of the early 80s because they have holes drilled in the frame. I don't plan to do any extreme off roading with it, so should this be any concern? If so what years had the drilled frames?

Secondly, should I go carbureted or fuel injected? I personally want a carbureted for the cool factor but I live in MN and the truck will be parked outside so will that lead to some starting issues in the winter? I've also heard some people having issues with the electric chokes, so is it possible to get one with a manual choke?

Thanks guys, if you have any other advice of stuff I should watch out for please let me know!

 

My opinion, and my opinion only:

First, I don't think there's any "best" year. I've owned '81, '83, '84, and '86 trucks. They were ALL GOOD. It's more going to be based on what's out there and what options you want. If you don't plan on hauling any "seriously heavy" loads, I wouldn't worry about the swiss cheese frame.

A properly tuned carburetor will start just as easy as any fuel-injected vehicle...maybe even easier. I've seen carb'd trucks start below zero with two pumps and only one revolution, every time.

I think you're going to have a harder time finding one that hasn't been hacked up, as seeing their age and how many owners had them. These trucks are getting harder and harder to come by in nice shape that haven't had a bunch of things changed from the way the factory had them.

I would look for one that's in good shape, and starts and runs good and go from there. There's always going to be something to "tinker" with on a vehicle of that age.

By the way, where are you located? Maybe there's a member fairly close to you that knows of a nice one for sale.
Edit: Nevermind location, Minnesota...forgot that.

My '86 is carb'd and starts every time.

 

Thanks for the info! Do you have any preference for the choke? Like a thermostatic, manual or electric?

 

I agree with 81ChopTop. I have two 81's, both with the Swiss-cheese frame, and I've towed about 7,000 lbs with no problems.

My advice is to put the money into the truck up front rather than buying a truck from a field and fixing it up. It'll cost you far more to fix one up as to buy a cream puff.

On the fuel system, the EFI systems on these trucks were Detroit's first attempt, and they aren't in the same league as today's systems. In fact, there's no OBD-II port, although you can get the computer to tell you what is wrong through the Ford OBD port. Anyway, I prefer a carb, and mine starts first time every time. But, others prefer EFI, so that's an open debate.

My web site has some information on these trucks: 1980 - 86 Ford Trucks - Gary's Garagemahal

 

Welcome to FTE

Personally, I like any year of these trucks. 1980 trucks have some unique wiring, while the swiss cheese frames were used until mid 1981 IIRC. Some will tell you the holey frames are just fine, others don't trust them.

On carbureted vs injected, that's your preference. If you can work on carbs but not injected, run that. Or vise versa. Fuel injection started in 85 for the 302 and it was the only injection offered for bullnoses. BUT there were computer controlled carbs...

As for cold starting carbs, if the choke is setup correctly, and the stock intake has the hot air diverter working, you shouldn't have any issues.

 

Welcome to FTE...Carbs can be fussy but like 81ChopTop says, they can be very reliable in all kinds of conditions. I chose to go the manual choke route simply because the auto choke components (heat stove, original air cleaner) were missing. I have since found an OEM air cleaner but kept the manual choke as it is working very well for me. I like all of the Bullnose trucks and am looking to replace my rebuilt 302 2v with the 300 I6 soon as it is a very dependable powerhouse engine. I guess it depends on what you want out of it, and how much you want to put into it. As stated, try to find a decent candidate to start with, which may prevent some headaches down the road (mine wasn't and it's been a little rough going forward). As most here will tell you, these trucks are a labor of love requiring dedication. The forum looks forward to any and all questions (the only dumb question is a question not asked). Good luck on your quest.

 

There are OBD ports on the fuel injected trucks. In fact, even the computer controlled carb trucks had OBD ports. I actually bought an OBD1 reader just for my 86.

 

Welcome to the forum.
For me it was the look of the Bull Nose trucks first and what motor it had 2nd but really wanted the 300 hoping for better MPG over my 02 5.9 Dodge.


I also wanted something you did not need fancy equipment to test or fix the truck like the Dodge. I was lucky or unlucky to find an 81 flare side with a 300 & T18.
The unlucky part is I am rebuilding it from the ground up but that is what you get for $800. Also bought a $300 parts truck the same time.


It all comes down to what $$ you have to spend, what you are looking for and being in the right place at the right time.
Good luck
Dave ----

 

If you want a 1 ton, 86 is the best year since 85.5 and up have the dana 60. Otherwise the best thing to look for is rust free ones. I check the Minneapolis craigslist everyday, and they're isn't too many clean ones out there. If you buy a manual, look for a cracked firewall

 

They had connections which allowed you to command the computer to output information, but not a standarized "OBD" port. Wikipedia says:

 

Welcome to the forum! I don't think you will go wrong with any of these trucks. Each have their issues but none of them are serious. I really liked my '81 F250 (now sold) as it was simpler than the newer ones with feedback carburetors. It had electric choke and started in negative digit weather with no problems. If you prefer manual choke you can get a manual conversion kit.

I will second what Gary said about spending more money up front and getting the best condition truck you can possibly afford. That is far cheaper than buying a junker and fixing it up. Buying a truck one part at a time is the most expensive way imaginable. (Ask me how I know...). With 20/20 hindsight I should have just sold my '86 F350 as a running beater and found a better restoration candidate, but I'm in it too far to turn back now. Just a little advice though since you have not made a purchase yet. Get the best truck you can. Period.

 

Were do the firewalls crack? I would like to check mine.

 

That article is misleading.

As somebody said, this was Detroit's first major, production-wide deployment of EFI - although IIRC some 1970s Cadillacs) as well as a smattering of others had it long before this era, but there were comparatively few of them built.

Anyway, all the manufacturers had their own implementations and their own diagnostic procedures & machines to help them, it was THAT that was standardized with OBD-II... all such diagnostic ports must be placed under the dash near the steering wheel, connectors & protocols are standardized so that no manufacturer-specific diagnostic aid is needed.

But Ford OBD-1 is Ford OBD-1 across all Fords - but the diagnostic ports are sometimes near the battery, or near the brake booster, or near the distributor, or near the HVAC box, or near the....

 

found info, thanks anyway!

 

Welcome to FTE! I'm writing just to echo this point about picking the right truck. I may have picked a little quickly, because the truck had a T18 / 302 / dual shocks, all of which I wanted... I paid about $2500 and have ended up doing way more to it than if I'd bought a sweeter truck for say $5500. That's the gap between a "needy" truck and a cream puff. I console myself on all the expenditures by saying that at least I rescued a bullnose from it's fate.


Think of this: if you pay $3000, and then have to put on shocks, and say a carb... maybe deal with a leak or two... you're up over $4000. Then, compare that to the perfect truck on craigslist for $6000 with a sweet interior and paint and you see my point.


One good thing with my truck was that it was in the south all its life. I'm a yankee who moved to South Carolina, and being from the northeast it's amazing how rust free things are down here.


If I were back up north or in Minnesota, I'd even think of looking for a "creampuff" truck down south and spending the airline ticket to go pick it up.