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okay. so I charged the batteries. I didn't have anything to turn it by hand first so i just took a shot in the dark and just tried to crank it with the key. She turned over but wouldn't start. It is still a little chilly here (about 55 degrees) so i am sure that isnt helping. Batteries went dead again so i am charging one more time to see what it will do. If she wont start any thoughts?
When cranking check that the wait to start light works, tac moves, oil pressure gauge moves and for smoke out of the tail pipe. I wouldn't be terribly surprised if it was the UVC wiring harness, CPS, fuelbowl heater fuse or (the name escapes me) the thing behind your alternator.
After it popped the first breaker I put it on a dedicated circuit and it still popped. I'll track down whether it's the cord or heater and go from there. Thanks
Thanks for the replies. the last time it was started it had lost a lot of power. To the point where I had to floor it for a not so steep hill. I think there are some injector issues. I know for sure the glow plugs are bad. I guess I am just concerned that after a year of sitting there one or more Pistons might be frozen in place. how would I tell if that's the case?
I had a similar issue as you did; I had to floor the truck just to pull a small rise in the road. I had just had it in the garage replacing the valve cover gaskets, and during reassembly, didn't get the hose to the boost sensor reattached right, and it had come off. Basically the PCM had no idea how much boost the turbo was creating, so it couldn't properly provide fuel and timing outputs to the injectors. Once I hooked that back up it ran great. You could have a similar issue due to a field mouse's teeth or dry rotted hose. It's just a thought. As low as the mileage is on your engine, I'd be following up on external issues, not internal.
I had a similar issue as you did; I had to floor the truck just to pull a small rise in the road. I had just had it in the garage replacing the valve cover gaskets, and during reassembly, didn't get the hose to the boost sensor reattached right, and it had come off. Basically the PCM had no idea how much boost the turbo was creating, so it couldn't properly provide fuel and timing outputs to the injectors. Once I hooked that back up it ran great. You could have a similar issue due to a field mouse's teeth or dry rotted hose. It's just a thought. As low as the mileage is on your engine, I'd be following up on external issues, not internal.
Totally agree with this post.
The MAP hose can also get clogged. Make sure its clear. You might also have a ICP sensor problem that would cause low power.
My question to you is, was it running rough, like it was missing, or smooth but low on power?
Your son is going to be thrilled. Or at least he should be lol.
UPDATE! Success. After a new block heater cord, filling the HPOP with oil and charging the batteries it has come back to life. So here is what I know. It actually purred pretty smooth. No white smoke out of the tail pipe that I could see. From inside the truck it was hard to tell but when I would give it gas it looked like white smoke would come from around the fuel bowl. But only when I gave it gas. When I got out and looked there is a fuel leak right at the fuel bowl on the driver side. If I remember it had a leak (fuel in the valley before parked). So questions are:
1- best place to get a fuel bowl rebuild kit. I want the blue o-rings. Heard they were better.
2- I am going to replace the glow plugs as I know they are bad. I hear autolites suck???
3- cowmilker and BBuford - it was never running rough, just no power. Can you post pics or something pointing to the places you suggested.
Thanks again everyone.
UPDATE! Success. After a new block heater cord, filling the HPOP with oil and charging the batteries it has come back to life. So here is what I know. It actually purred pretty smooth. No white smoke out of the tail pipe that I could see. From inside the truck it was hard to tell but when I would give it gas it looked like white smoke would come from around the fuel bowl. But only when I gave it gas. When I got out and looked there is a fuel leak right at the fuel bowl on the driver side. If I remember it had a leak (fuel in the valley before parked). So questions are:
1- best place to get a fuel bowl rebuild kit. I want the blue o-rings. Heard they were better.
2- I am going to replace the glow plugs as I know they are bad. I hear autolites suck???
3- cowmilker and BBuford - it was never running rough, just no power. Can you post pics or something pointing to the places you suggested.
Thanks again everyone.
1-- dieselorings.com for o-ring kit and new lines for fuel bowl
2--Motorcraft only. They don't seek and get stuck in the head. No Bueno when this happens.
BBslider - thank you, I will Order the o-rings from there. Looks like they have some other good parts also. but I still need to address the no power issues.
BBslider - thank you, I will Order the o-rings from there. Looks like they have some other good parts also. but I still need to address the no power issues.
I would go ahead and get the precut fuel lines as well. He'll know what you need. There are 3 of them if I remember correctly.
Here are a few pics and a link to a video. As you can see it is pretty dirty with dried up old oil and there is a fuel leak to take care of. I am still getting white smoke from somewhere around the fuel bowl when I give it gas.
Might be the ebps tube that rusted thru. Give that engine a good wash and determine where its leaking, just try not to hot the driver side firewall and fusebix area.
The MAP hose is the black hose roughly 1/2" OD that runs from the passenger side intake plenum to the sensor mounted on the firewall area. Make sure the hose isn't clogged. Then unplug the electrical connector to the sensor and drive around to see if the power comes back. If no change plug it back in.
The ICP sensor is located on the driver's side head kind of between the FPR and the a/c compressor. It has 3 wires going to it. Unplug the sensor and drive it around to see if the power comes back. And check for oil inside the plug.
As for the white smoke under the hood, that could also be crank case gases if your CCV is leaking (orings) or if the little rubber hose has a hole in it.
I had white smoke come out from under the hood when cranking before I replaced my up pipes. The connection at the collector was so loose, when I pulled the turbo, they just slid out.
