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We are planing a trip through the mountains to N.C. this spring. The tv is a '16 f 250 with a 6.2 gasser and 4:30 axle The trailer weighs around #9300 loaded.
Any tips from your experience? Have towed through WI. and southern OH. but that is as close to hill country as we have been with the camper.
Thanks.
I'm not too familiar with the trans you have but the same idea applies to all types, use the trans to control speed on the downhill runs as much as possible. It will keep your brakes cool and ready for full power if needed.
I remember our first trip to the Smokey Mountains, while parked at one of the scenic overlooks our young son remarked that the "Smoke" in the Smokeys (low clouds) smelled pretty bad, it was the smell of overheated brakes from all the cars riding their brakes going down the mountains. We had a good laugh at that one!
We are planing a trip through the mountains to N.C. this spring. The tv is a '16 f 250 with a 6.2 gasser and 4:30 axle The trailer weighs around #9300 loaded.
Any tips from your experience? Have towed through WI. and southern OH. but that is as close to hill country as we have been with the camper.
Thanks.
You have the right rear end gears for the job, when you get into the mountains use the manual mode and keep the rpms between 3000 and 4500 rpms when needed both up and down the grades. When I'm pulling mountain grades out west I just gear down until I find a good rpm that I can hold speed and run that way until I get to the top and then gear down going down. When going down use cycles of hard braking to bring your speed down to a comfortable levels then let your brakes cool before the next cycle. This is by far the best transmission I've had for mountain braking and it's ability to hold the speed down.
One other thing to be sure and check is your trailer brakes, make sure they are properly adjusted.
I have been very successful using the tow/haul mode in conjunction with cruise control going DOWN mountain passes. Set the cruise for about 5 UNDER the highest speed you want to go and the tow/haul will keep you right in the sweet spot..... Of course, if in that downhill road if you come to a curve that is a LOT curvier you will have to hit the brake pedal to slow it down further.
I have been very successful using the tow/haul mode in conjunction with cruise control going DOWN mountain passes. Set the cruise for about 5 UNDER the highest speed you want to go and the tow/haul will keep you right in the sweet spot..... Of course, if in that downhill road if you come to a curve that is a LOT curvier you will have to hit the brake pedal to slow it down further.
Are you using a exhaust brake? Gas motors are a lot different in the mountains when compared to a diesel with a exhaust brake. With a gas motor and the 6 speed if you use TH going down grades every time you get on the brakes it wants to downshift to the next lower gear until you have to put it in the manual mode to upshift it, that's why I recommend and use the M mode with a gas motor going down grades.
Tow - haul and the manual shifting paddles will keep things under control. The shift lever does not have to be in the 'M' position to manually shift. I've found that tow - haul will put my diesel into RPMs that are just not comfortable to me, but I'm sure are safe. My next last truck may be a 6.2 with 4.30s though can't complain so far about the oil burner
So are you saying to leave it in t/h and shift to M holding at 3,000-4,500 rpms? Or shift to M and take it OUT of t/h/? I'm not sure if one function over rides the other. I'll have to look in the manual
Bob
If you are in TH and shift to manual mode it cancels the TH.
What I've found out if you are in drive and tow for any length of time the difference between TH is almost nothing when upshifting, I do use TH coming into towns because of the transmission braking.
Thanks guys. I'll hitch up and play around with the gears this weekend to get the feel for it. I appreciate the help.
Bob
P.S. Chuck-- Greetings from a transplanted Buckeye. I grew up near Cleveland, and my wife is from Y-Town.
Thanks guys. I'll hitch up and play around with the gears this weekend to get the feel for it. I appreciate the help.
Bob
P.S. Chuck-- Greetings from a transplanted Buckeye. I grew up near Cleveland, and my wife is from Y-Town.
Hello and Welcome...
Yes I am from Cleveland... but live between Cleveland and Akron... past 40 years.
I can't comment on the truck or tow/haul as I have a 7.3, but the "mountains" of North Carolina are not like those found in the West. We just ran through yesterday and this is pretty much part of our extended stomping grounds. There are some steep (7%) grades, but they are pretty short. We have towed through them with one of our former GM 6 liter gassers and had no problem. I don't think you will either. No sure just where you are heading in N.C., but this part of the world is really beautiful.
I am used to the western mountains. My last pickup with a Chevrolet with a 6.0 gas and a manual transmission. Been pulling for years in all sorts of trucks.
The rule of thumb is use a gear lower that what you would have to go up that hill. The old timers would say same gear. As power increases an additional lower gear is safer.
I haven't had a chance to pull with my 06. However I already like the tow/haul mode and the engine braking offered.
In NC you really have to climb up once and then down, take I-77 you go up to Fancy Gap and hold the altitude, on I-40 you go up Old Fort Mtn and hold, on 421 to Boone you go up and hold, there is some up and down the hills but not too bad. Coming West to East does not seem to be as bad as East to West. Bear in mind that the grades are long and non interstates are often steeper (+8%)
Going up, don't push, let the truck pull at its happy rev/speed, going down use the engine to brake. Watch the signs for % grade and the overhead signs for going too fast for curves, on I-40 they will flash. Most mountain pulls are 55 MPH speed or less and the cops love to sit on the grades.