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I believe your problem is air still in the brake hydraulic system. Gravity bleeding cannot remove air that has gotten trapped on a high spot in the tubing. The fluid just flows past the bubbles of air (similar to what can happen to a cooling system).
A hand vacuum pump is more reliable or take to a shop and have them use a pressure bleeding system. Or you could try the time honored method using a person in the cab pushing on the brake pedal while you open a bleeder screw. The reason the pedal method works so well is that there is a lot of fluid flow, which takes the air bubbles with the fluid.
Larry
I did this very thing with the mighty vac just as I finished this brake job on each wheel,
Today I noticed it is about gone air has either surfaced or my helper and I got it with as stated the old tried and true method of pushing pedal as I opened bleeder closing just before pedal bottom. Thank you for the reply.
UM....Did you watch the video??? or read any of the preceeding posts??? before you responded? It is about replacing the the ATF in the hydroboost and power steering system......So, YEEEESSSSSS!
I guess the dude in the video could not help but to show the brake fluid reservoir since it is so close to the fittings and lines for the hydroboost..
Yea I got that also in video, sure I would never put A/T fluid in brake reservoir as one thought I might be instructed to do, funny how we check ourselves. Thanks to the guy above who gave me Hydro flush link, I'm just getting now able to recognize a few names around the 7.3 forum, new to site. I was over at Steel Soldiers with a military CUCV for years. Thanks
Still fighting the same issue with my truck, going to bleed the system one more time tomorrow and if that doesn't help with anything I'm going to replace the brake booster. Will let you know if I come up with anything.
Get speed bleeders and order the bag with hose. You will never go gravity again. You didn't put the caliper in upside down did you? It happens and will present with similar issues.
Get speed bleeders and order the bag with hose. You will never go gravity again. You didn't put the caliper in upside down did you? It happens and will present with similar issues.
UM....Did you watch the video??? or read any of the preceding posts??? before you responded? It is about replacing the the ATF in the hydro boost and power steering system......So, YEEEESSSSSS!
I guess the dude in the video could not help but to show the brake fluid reservoir since it is so close to the fittings and lines for the hydro boost..
Alright... I stand corrected...
I had read all the preceding posts before responding, but my mind was sort of landlocked onto the brake system and just didn't connect the hydro boost dots into the discussion. Also, the IT gods have our network at my office locked up such that I cannot stream videos, and I'm such a penny-pinching data miser that I won't do it on my phone.
I always to seem to be working on brakes when no one is home. These things make it much easier.
There is only one minor problem with the speed bleeders which is easily fixed. Brake calipers (especially ones that have been rebuilt at a factory) can have slightly oversized threaded holes for the bleeders. This possibly can happen from drilling out old rusted bleeders. This results in the speed bleeders having a loose fit in the threads. If the bleeder seems lose, to prevent air from being sucked in around the threads of the bleeder just smear a small amount of thread sealant at the threads after inserting the bleeder. You don't want to get the sealant into the braking system.
The sealant or grease on the outside of the bleeder is enough to prevent air from being sucked into the caliper.
I had read all the preceding posts before responding, but my mind was sort of landlocked onto the brake system and just didn't connect the hydro boost dots into the discussion. Also, the IT gods have our network at my office locked up such that I cannot stream videos, and I'm such a penny-pinching data miser that I won't do it on my phone.
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