Well seller said the bolts were there so I put a claim into USPS but since its not insured even though the package was $215 roughly its doubtful I will get any money back for compensation.


But I did get some stainless bolts from lowes for temporary installation of the unit. They are 1/2-13 hex head bolts that are 1 1/2" in length.


I am looking at the following two for a more finished look, probably the second one since it is a counter sunk mount. First one is not the proper length but I am sure I can find it in the proper length.


1 2 13 x 3 4 Button Head Allen Screws Chrome Plated Bag of 10 | eBay


1 1 4" 1 2 13 Chrome Flat Head Allen Bolts for Springer | eBay


Besides that I had to use the torch at work to burn the bumper bolts out as they were spinning. Not cause the bumper was damaged but someone swapped bolts out at one time that had smaller square shoulder that did not engage the square in the bumper. Engine builder next door had a set of four in the proper size he loaned me, will buy a set of four to give back.


Besides that bar mounted great, but now my flood lights don't work, probably a damaged wire when I was pulling on the wire mounting the lights. Only used simple crimp connectors as I used a bullet connector for my plug connector.


I will try to post photos to this from my phone.

 

Well I cant hold USPS accountable for the torn up box and the missing pieces. They say the tracking number indicates there was no insurance on the package.


Funny that one has to have insurance on a package just to ensure you can get comepsated after they tore your package up and lost content. I remember I had a package I ordered once and USPS sent the order back claiming the box had been damaged in transport and was empty. But yet I get this one box open on both ends pieces falling out and the bag with the four bolts missing and I cant get even an offer of money to compensate me for having to buy new bolts.


Cant wait for the day when USPS goes out of business as they cant deliever mail to the right address, they have people that go through your mail and read your catalogs and magzines and ontop of that they damage your **** and just say "well your ****ed there was no insurance so its not covered." wonder how it would go down if I wrecked a customers car on a test drive and just simply told them, its not my car and I don't have insurance on it so its not covered by me.

 

The sender had the option of insuring the package, just like they would have with UPS, FedEx, etc, and obviously declined. I've had at least as many problems with UPS as I have with USPS. Is there anyone else who can send a letter across the country for half a buck?

 

Ive only had a problem with fedex. They delievered a $1,200 laptop to the right house number wrong street. UPS hasn't gotten on my bad side but USPS has. I understand he obviously declined but every item I bought off Ebay that shipped FedEx or UPS always charged extra for mandatory insurance if the item was over $100. Guess I just lucked out with nice sellers.

 

Well I polished the push bar and the bumper out today. Now I am trying to figure out what lights to get to replace the expensive flood lights that I have. Nothing wrong with the lights, they just aren't what I am wanting.

I found some nice ones, especially some driving light style ones with rearward facing LEDs but doesn't give specs on brightness in Lumens just in Candela which I haven't looked to see if theres a way to convert to get an idea of brightness. I also don't know if they will fit as I cant find any dimension specs on theses to see.

The final thing that really kills it for me is the price, their nearly $200 a piece and that just cant be justified to spend that much.

 

Just a thought but, I would tend to lean towards a rectangular driving lamp in keeping with the headlamp shape and the frame of the pushbar, grille, etc. For kicks, I looked up LED's and found these:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ular-24w/3103/
I'm not sure why the heatsink housings, maybe just for aesthetics.
Again, just thinking out-loud.

 

The more I look at your pic, if I were going the route you are, which I might after seeing your's, I think an early black grille, black headlight bezels, with the early style F O R D letters on the hood would make that chrome pushbar stand out. I might frame my license plate with a black frame to round out the black and chrome theme....you got me thinking.

 

As of now the line of thought was the chrome trim but with the black accents vs the grey that lmc sells.

I thought of doing the black out grill with the ford oval just to off set the chrome push bar.

As far as lights goes, I been looking at two different ones. They are driving lights and they are just too damn expensive for my tastes.

PIAA | LP550 5" LED Driving Light Kit, SAE Compliant #05572

or theses

KC HiLiTES | Daylighter LED the orginal performance offroad light

I really don't like how the daylighters mount, I prefer a solid metal bracket that mounts with a bolt and nut solidly to the mounting surface.

I also saw theses but these produce a hour glass beam pattern from what Ive seen on youtube reviews and I don't care for that.

4" LZR 6-LED Series Pair Pack System - Black - KC #300 (Spread Beam)

Up side is from KC I can buy the lights individually and it will cost the same but I wont get the free wiring harness which I do not need as I already made my own. The Piaa only comes as a kit officially.

KC also has some bar style lights that I did look at but just didn't do anything for me.

KC HiLiTES | FLEX LED lights and FLEX LED light bars for Offroad UTV, ATV and Trucks

Which I would have to measure the spacing between mounts if I can get a light bar I might consider that as an option but it just seems like everyone runs them and I kind of want to stand out some and not be with the norm. Big reason why I always liked the round lights as they are traditional and they are "period" correct for this era truck as KC daylighters were one of the big brand of auxiliary lights.



~Update~

Well I forgot to upload these next three photos. One is taken after installation after I got my lights working again the next day. Highbeam with floods on. Then the next two photos are from today as I forgot to take photos of the bumper and pushbar after I polished a little on it on Saturday.

 

I get the period correct thought, as I have a set of 5.5 Unity chrome spotlights to install and I'm torn on the round/rectangle issue. Should the road lights match the spotlights? or should the road lights match the headlights? As far as the LED bar goes, I've seen way too many of them recently and I agree with you about setting the truck apart from the latest fad/trend. It was easy on my DeSoto....the road lights match the spotlights. Not an easy decision on the 84 though.

 

Yep, and I know KC and PIAA were big names when these trucks were new. KC has a 28 year warranty I think it is while PIAA has a life time warranty. KC has the chrome traditional style light with LED inserts but they have the chrome tubing for the wiring ment to go into a roll bar for a clean install which mine is just going behind the bumper. Would much rather have the black rubber covering. then theres the rubber mount that allows the light to have some isolation which I am not crazy about.

I am looking at the PIAA more than anything but I am just not crazy about their rock guard styles. Atleast with KC you can buy custom aftermarket ones in different colors and camo.

 

Can you post pics going down the road, with the aux lights off, and then with them on?

 

I can try to with the time change I will try to position the truck in a dark part of the street and do a photo from inside with the aux lights off and on.

thing is though the headlights would still be on as theres no way to activate them on their own as they gain power from my high beam relay. Switch only breaks the ground for inspection purposes so they don't try to fail the truck having off road only lights tied in like I have them.