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I agree with the 4.88 gears, I've done a lot of research on which gearing I should go with on mine, and ultimately ended up buying the 4.88s, I will be installing them this coming week and will be taking time lapse video of the entire swap. Really looking forward to what it has in stock!
I assume you know what you are doing, but your post sounds like you are just going to do an easy swap.
Wanted the less mechanical to understand that setting up a set of gears is a delicate job with some fairly heavy knowledge required. you don't just swap them.
I have done a 5 or 6 sets with good luck, but i have enough knowledge to make myself dangerous and a decent tool and shop set up. There are life long professional mechanics that still hire others to do their gears for them.
Is it true you need a new carrier also to go to the 4.88's. I heard you could only go as far as 4.56 with the stock one. That's why I was going to go with the 4.56's to save a little cash.
Instead of putting the 4.56's in my V10 Excursion I just traded for the 4.10's that came in my F350 Dually with the 7.3 haha.
Is it true you need a new carrier also to go to the 4.88's. I heard you could only go as far as 4.56 with the stock one. That's why I was going to go with the 4.56's to save a little cash.
Instead of putting the 4.56's in my V10 Excursion I just traded for the 4.10's that came in my F350 Dually with the 7.3 haha.
I recently swapped my gears with the stock carrier I was still able to use 4.88s
I have done a fair amount of research and the price of factory 4.30LS axles is so low it does not make sense to spend the coin for anything else...
I would rather spend the money in rotating mass: lightweight wheels make a heckuva difference with the gearing.
I run 37" bias plys and lightweight rims on my 150-is rwhp, 4,000 lb jeep because they come out to the wieght of 35's... meaning my 5.14s spin them that much easier.
unsprung weight and rotating mass are huge factors.
I have done a fair amount of research and the price of factory 4.30LS axles is so low it does not make sense to spend the coin for anything else...
I would rather spend the money in rotating mass: lightweight wheels make a heckuva difference with the gearing.
unsprung weight and rotating mass are huge factors.
I assume that you mean OEM 4.30 gear sets, and yes they are fine IF that is the gear you need. In my case with 35" tires and the heavy towing that we do I needed to go with deeper 4.88 gears.
Lightweight wheels are fine also if you can find them with the proper weight rating for the application. While towing my rear axle weight can get as high as 6600lbs, that motivated me to stick with very high quality forged hubcentric OEM 18" rims for my application.
I agree with how rotational mass will affect performance as I pointed out in post #4 above just be sure to keep in mind what some of those lighter weight options may be limited to.
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