So I have read many of these threads on the issue and I have gone through testing procedures, but I'm still having the same results. I have replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, pick up sensor, and the icm. What could I be missing the truck is a 90 F350 cclwb srw 460 with the E4OD. By testing I mean that first I started at the spark plug and got no spark, tested the wires no spark, tested cap and rotor, tested to see if the coil wire would shoot to the cap, tested coil for ohms .3-1 got .9. Did the LED light connected to the battery and icm, icm tested bad replaced icm and now I'm at a loss.

 

i have an 89 and had to replace the relays on the driver side fender well for a no start

 

Two thoughts: Did you check to see if you are getting power up to the coil through one of the little wires that hooks onto the coil, when the ignition switch turned on? Your old ICM tested bad, maybe the replacement ICM they sold you was also bad.

 

Did you try unplugging the Computer and see if the spark returned?
As noted above did you test for power at the coils two small wires with the key on and the key in the run position?

 

I have steady power to the coil when I crank it drops to about 9.7 from almost 12 volts. I have not unplugged the computer nor have I considered doing so is there a reason this might help? I am starting to feel like this icm may also be faulty thank you for your input I'll try unplugging the computer.

 

You unplug the computer to see if the computer is stopping the spark.
You leave it unplugged while cranking and testing for spark.
You also do not plug it back in until you have spark while cranking.
Also with the computer unplugged the injectors will not fire so you will not flood the engine with fuel.

 

By the way with the computer plugged in does the fuel pump run all the time the key is in the run position and the engine is not running?

 

That actually sounds crazy enough to work, yes the fuel pumps run while key is in run. Also is there a secret to getting that screw to back out so it can be unplugged?

 

Just back it out and when it gets hard to turn wiggle the plug some and then back it out some more.
It does sound like you have a bad computer.

After you get it out open it up and see if the caps are leaking. I bet they are as the clock is not running in the computer.

 

Thank you for the input I shall keep at it

 

No leaks this baby looks brand new on the inside

 

Then I would make sure you have a good PCM/Body ground at the radiator support passenger side hooked to the NEG post of the battery.
In other words make sure pins 40 & 60 pf the PCM plug have a good ground.

Also make sure the PCM has power on pins #1, 37 & 57 with the key in the on/run position.

 

So today with a little more light I came across this gem, and I think it may play a part in the issue. also do you have a pic of which pins to check?

 

Grounds on pins 40 & 60 both good and pins #1, 37, 57 all are 11.7 volts so also I still have no spark while cranking with computer unplugged as specified, though fuel pumps are still running.

 

What's going on in that last picture at the bottom? Corrosion?