Finally finished my door seals this morning. It was much easier than planned! The hardest part was removing the remnants of the old adhesive. The 3M adhesive remover seemed to be the worst of the products that I tried. What did work great was the "Goof Off" professional strength from Home Depot. A screwdriver, scrubbie pad and wire brush did the trick. Then a cleaning with brake parts cleaner. I also wiped down the new seals with electrical contact cleaner.



After cleaning.



The little nubs fit into these holes in the bottom of the door. Picture taken before rust removal and priming. On the Dennis Carpenter seals, the existing plastic inserts still in the door aren't used.



Hope it's ok to post a video link here. If you've not done weatherstripping before, take the 4 minutes to watch the correct method of using the 3M adhesive. Does it really adhere as quickly as the video shows? It absolutely does.


Here are my supplies:



For the areas behind the hinges, it was easier to use my finger to apply the adhesive. Very messy, but it was the most effective way to get the proper coverage.

Done!! I did have to adjust the lock strike to get the door to fully close. After they settle in and compress, I'll readjust.



Here is he other side with the old, original weatherstripping.



Now it's time to get my new tires mounted. $171 apiece from Sam's club.

 

Thanks for sharing your experience and tips on the door seals. This is a job that I need to tackle and have been putting off. Glad to hear that you had success without removing the doors. I hope to do the same in the coming months once the weather warms and clears.

 

One thing I should add to this. If you buy the weatherstrip adhesive from some place like autozone, it may have been sitting on the shelf for years. If your first squirt of adhesive comes out as clear liquid, stop. Return the product and buy it elsewhere. It means it's separated and you're wasting your time.

Same goes for any product. If it's been sitting too long, it's useless. Hylomar is a perfect example. It separates when sitting on the shelf. Better off ordering from a factory source. Amazon or grainger generally get their products "fresh".

 

Good tips. This is the kind of task where people mean well and spend a lot of money for what you get and are usually ready to strangle somebody when it goes badly.

How much is the DC weatherstrip, is it enough for two doors?

 

Dc seals here:

http://dennis-carpenter.com/m/produc...1TZ-8120530-PR

Well worth the few extra bucks.

 

Thanks! Been meaning to do this. Thanks again for the tips.

 

Received the entire weather strip kit from DC few days ago and been putting if off, thanks for the info., hopefully give me the incentive to tackle the task, just waiting for the glass setting tape so I can install the vent windows. Since reading the thread rather than use the tube of adhesive I had setting around best pick up a tube.

The 'Kit' aint cheap, so what's with DC not including the infamous screw, usually find rusted out where the division bar attached to the vent window, it appears the original screw includes a brass sleeve; anyhow, had to take a grinding wheel to the remove on the driver's side?

 

My anti rattle kit is next. I have one loose pivot and one rusted frame, so will have to wait for new frames. Not a job I'm wanting to do twice.

 

If referring to the vent window pivot post, not the pivot arm, I searched various Ford part supplier's, although not a particular fan of LMC, seems they are the only supplier that carries them, item #6 in their catalog. Just reconditioned the vent windows on 1 of the 65's, if the pivot post is not rusted out, just loose, possibly repair by removing old rivets with new??