Hot Start Problems
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2015
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Hot Start Problems
Hi again. Nearing the end of the father/son project on the 74 f250. One of the last hang-ups is it's unwillingness to restart once warm. It cranks slowly, but reliably when cold and will start over and over. Once it's been on the road for 10 minutes or so, it will still crank slowly, but not start up.
So, I've been doing a bunch of reading and seen vapor lock and a hot starter most often listed as the cause of this kind of thing. I'm leaning towards starter, because the engine doesn't die or seem fuel starved when warm and as long as I don't turn it off, I can keep driving.
Before replacing the starter, I was thinking that maybe wrapping the exhaust at the point it passes the starter might work. I know this is likely wishful hoping for a cheap and easy fix, but I'm trying to be optimistic.
Any thoughts/advice would be great.
So, I've been doing a bunch of reading and seen vapor lock and a hot starter most often listed as the cause of this kind of thing. I'm leaning towards starter, because the engine doesn't die or seem fuel starved when warm and as long as I don't turn it off, I can keep driving.
Before replacing the starter, I was thinking that maybe wrapping the exhaust at the point it passes the starter might work. I know this is likely wishful hoping for a cheap and easy fix, but I'm trying to be optimistic.
Any thoughts/advice would be great.
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 547
Likes: 11
Hi again. Nearing the end of the father/son project on the 74 f250. One of the last hang-ups is it's unwillingness to restart once warm. It cranks slowly, but reliably when cold and will start over and over. Once it's been on the road for 10 minutes or so, it will still crank slowly, but not start up.
So, I've been doing a bunch of reading and seen vapor lock and a hot starter most often listed as the cause of this kind of thing. I'm leaning towards starter, because the engine doesn't die or seem fuel starved when warm and as long as I don't turn it off, I can keep driving.
Before replacing the starter, I was thinking that maybe wrapping the exhaust at the point it passes the starter might work. I know this is likely wishful hoping for a cheap and easy fix, but I'm trying to be optimistic.
Any thoughts/advice would be great.
So, I've been doing a bunch of reading and seen vapor lock and a hot starter most often listed as the cause of this kind of thing. I'm leaning towards starter, because the engine doesn't die or seem fuel starved when warm and as long as I don't turn it off, I can keep driving.
Before replacing the starter, I was thinking that maybe wrapping the exhaust at the point it passes the starter might work. I know this is likely wishful hoping for a cheap and easy fix, but I'm trying to be optimistic.
Any thoughts/advice would be great.
I'm not certain of the reason for the no-start when warm but somebody here will help with that.
Dennis
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 9,111
Likes: 3
From: Lexington Mo
That engine turning over slowly has nothing to do with vapor lock.
I'm wondering more like you have a weak starter, or battery. As already mentioned make sure your connections are clean and tight.
Unk Bob
I'm wondering more like you have a weak starter, or battery. As already mentioned make sure your connections are clean and tight.
Unk Bob
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,553
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When they are warmed up and then sit, fuel in the carb can boil. That can make hot re-start harder. Usually a good crank and maybe hold the throttle open a bit clears it out, re-fills the fuel bowels and you are in business.
Agree it sounds like there is weakness in the starting system. Connections, condition of wires, battery, starter or solenoid.
Agree it sounds like there is weakness in the starting system. Connections, condition of wires, battery, starter or solenoid.
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Thanks for the advice from all. I'm confident that the cables to and from the battery and solenoid are OK. They are all brand new and while I know that is not a guarantee of a good connection, I would be surprised to find that they are the issue.
Assuming for a minute that heat to the starter is the issue, what do any of you think about the idea of wrapping the exhaust? Will that dissipate enough heat, or is it a waste of money?
Also, if heat to the starter is an issue, how does a new starter help the problem? Won't is also get hot? Is a newer starter simply more tolerant to the heat because of its "newness"?
Assuming for a minute that heat to the starter is the issue, what do any of you think about the idea of wrapping the exhaust? Will that dissipate enough heat, or is it a waste of money?
Also, if heat to the starter is an issue, how does a new starter help the problem? Won't is also get hot? Is a newer starter simply more tolerant to the heat because of its "newness"?
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 83
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Timing could also be an issue. They will start Good when cold. But once they warm up they can crank hard and slow and show symptoms similar to that of a dead battery. Timing set to far advanced can cause the same issue.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 885
Likes: 2
From: Pittsburgh
As someone already said, it shouldn't crank slowly when cold. I'd replace the starter if you are insistent that the cables and battery are good. You really only specified cables to the solenoid and battery are new...what about the cable to the starter?
A lot of guys are going with the PMGR mini-starter.
If you're literally looking to do the minimum possible, I have heard that header heat wrap in the starter area has worked for some people.
A lot of guys are going with the PMGR mini-starter.
If you're literally looking to do the minimum possible, I have heard that header heat wrap in the starter area has worked for some people.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
New cables may not be the cure-all. One problem is that some manufacturers are now using extra thick insulation to make it appear like good quality cable, but it is not. Cheap cable is never a bargain. A worn out starter is going to have trouble in hot weather, too. Slow (excessively slow) starting when cold means either bad grounds and connections, a bad starter, or both. You have to measure for "voltage drop" (look it up, trust me) while under load to see what's going on.
Overly advanced timing might be the issue but if not, if all the other solutions have been tried - 2/0 cable (about .353" thick) ground and starter cable has been recommended as an effective remedy in troublesome "hot start" situations. Works every time, or so I'm told. $5 bucks a foot, so hide the CC statements.
http://www.allbatterysalesandservice...cfm/4,508.html
Overly advanced timing might be the issue but if not, if all the other solutions have been tried - 2/0 cable (about .353" thick) ground and starter cable has been recommended as an effective remedy in troublesome "hot start" situations. Works every time, or so I'm told. $5 bucks a foot, so hide the CC statements.
http://www.allbatterysalesandservice...cfm/4,508.html
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 475
Likes: 34
From: Vermont
I have learned to never ASSUME anything is proper when new or "I checked that" a while back. A methodical checking of things pointed out in replies should track down the problem. That means actually removing each bolt or cable connection and cleaning etc,etc.
You'll get it, just don't hop around to this and that. Eliminate things one at a time.gary
You'll get it, just don't hop around to this and that. Eliminate things one at a time.gary
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 10
A comment on wrapping... it is effective in reducing surrounding heat and creates more heat in the manifold material. It may cause cracking of the manifold. A shield may be a better solution. That said, most of these trucks work OK so suggest you continue the troubleshooting.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 767
Likes: 1
From: Franklin, GA
As the others mentioned; clean all grounding terminals and the locations they connect to.
Forget the exhaust wrap. It'll just speed up the rotting of the exhaust pipe/header (whichever you have). They make a heat shield for the starter that may help a little. Mini starters will give you more room around the exhaust, too.
You want to find out if your problem rests with the starter itself? Make sure all the electrical connections are good to go. Make sure the battery is fully charged. Start it up and run it just like you always do. After it gets good and warmed up (operating temp), bring it back to the house and shut it down near a water hose pipe. Immediately try to start it while everything is good and hot. If the usual still occurs, spray the starter with the hose until you can feel it's cooled down. Then attempt to start the truck again. If it fires right up, your starter is failing you. If you still can't start it with the starter cooled, the other comments about the timing will more than likely be valid.
Used to have to perform the water trick on a '76 Lincoln Cont. for a while!
Good luck.
Forget the exhaust wrap. It'll just speed up the rotting of the exhaust pipe/header (whichever you have). They make a heat shield for the starter that may help a little. Mini starters will give you more room around the exhaust, too.
You want to find out if your problem rests with the starter itself? Make sure all the electrical connections are good to go. Make sure the battery is fully charged. Start it up and run it just like you always do. After it gets good and warmed up (operating temp), bring it back to the house and shut it down near a water hose pipe. Immediately try to start it while everything is good and hot. If the usual still occurs, spray the starter with the hose until you can feel it's cooled down. Then attempt to start the truck again. If it fires right up, your starter is failing you. If you still can't start it with the starter cooled, the other comments about the timing will more than likely be valid.
Used to have to perform the water trick on a '76 Lincoln Cont. for a while!
Good luck.