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I use Cole Hersee 1000amp 2484-06 Master Disconnect Switches on my winches.
That's not 1000 continuous,but the duty chart they sent me showed them good for 500amps for about 10 min which is good enough for my winching (the duty cycle goes up as the amperage goes down.
Weather sealed with silver contacts (though for my application silver contacts aren't so important because if I need to use it while under load I have bigger issues I'm concerned about). Cole Hersee Master Disconnect Switch 2484-06
I mounted a weatherproof box next to the battery. I removed the inline fuses at the battery and used 2 Bussman circuit breakers and a Cole Hersee for the master disconnect. For the power tongue jack I used a fuse and went direct to the power at the switch. Have been using this set up for a few years now. I turn the switch off between trips and remove the battery during the off season.
I've been using more easily mounted Marinco disconnects on our RV's for a while though on my '31 street rod, have a Cole-Hersee which is what I've used on past similar cars. Living quarters is not a place to put a no name piece of crap such as sold by many stores since your entire 12VDC power source flows through this switch. Choose as big an ampacity as you feel is safe:Battery-Related Products | Master Disconnect Switches | Cole Hersee - Littelfuse
Finally got around to installing that battery isolator switch between my two Trojan T105 6V batteries. It's that Princess Auto "Power Fist" one. Used doubled up 10 AWG wire for the interconnecting wires. The rest of the leads are 10 or 12 AWG, but felt like minimizing resistance between the two batteries couldn't hurt. Would have used 8 or 6 gauge, but had all the stuff for 10 gauge already. Kind of like the way the double-wires look too. Sporty!
All connections have a dab of dielectric grease to reduce corrosion, crimp on ring terminals, plus brush-on electrical tape to create what should be a watertight connection.
May clean up some of the other main wiring when I get some time. Ended up with an install I was happy with, pretty tucked out of the way.
Here's a few photos.
Unfortunately, I was bumping the stereo the whole time, and I had the truck headlights on after I had hooked it up to the trailer to check all the trailer bulbs, so the truck battery was dead when I was ready to leave. Luckily, my storage place is pretty close to my house, so I walked home to grab the econobox to boost my truck.
Newby question...the disconnect switch is wired into the positive wire? My trailer has black to the positive and white to the negative if that makes any difference.
Newby question...the disconnect switch is wired into the positive wire? My trailer has black to the positive and white to the negative if that makes any difference.
Most if not all racing organizations (NASCAR, NHRA etc, etc) require that the disconnect be wired to the positive (black on RVs). Others strongly suggest that you use the negative (ground/white). I always put a disconnect on the positive wire as it takes any power potential off the system if there was any inadvertent short. Heck, why not just put one on each side and be 100% disconnected
Amp draw on RVs is pretty puny unless you are wiring for an inverter. You will never see close to the kind of draw any of these disconnects are rated to handle.
If you want to use resettable breakers instead of fuses, you can use the little rectangular ones. They come in single blow, auto resetting, and manually resetting, and are inexpensive
I bet there are dozens of ways to do it and dozens of components to do it with and I think everyone's favorite way will work just fine and none will work any better than any other (oh boy, now I've done it). The things most often dissected are, in my opinion, seldom the things that make much difference.
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