6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis

Going 6.0 to 6.4 emissions and registration (price)

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Old 02-24-2016, 12:08 PM
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Going 6.0 to 6.4 emissions and registration (price)

Hi,

I am buying an 09' 6.4 from a good friend of mine. I have been drooling on this truck for 5 years, and am selling my 06' 6.0.
The 6.4 is straight piped and he registers it in the county our cabins are located. Has anyone here registered their truck in a different county? Or know how that works. I don't receive any mail there right now, just wondering what the process is like.
My 6.0 has a gutted cat, so that hasn't been an issue, but if I cannot get the 6.4 registered in Elmore county I will have a problem.

Any thoughts on what you think the 6.0 is worth?
2006 crew cab Lariat - good to great condition
140K miles
4" turbo back exhaust with gutted cat
20" wheels with cooper AT tires, only 10K miles on them
Custom paint on lower half of the truck - Black
Blue Spring upgrade
EGR delete with SCT tuner
Air bigs
I have maintained this truck extremely well, runs strong. I wouldn't be getting rid of it if I didn't have this opportunity.

Should I keep my scanguage?

There are trucks in Boise ID selling for around 18K in the same condition mine is, although I don't think I would ever buy another one unless I knew how it had been maintained.. I have one of the good ones IMO.

Thanks,
 
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Old 02-24-2016, 11:58 PM
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I personally would not go from a good 6.0 to a 6.4. I would also never own an early 6.0

I have been around plenty and driven half a dozen 6.4s at work and I wouldn't trade my '06 for a lower mile '10 even if it were a straight trade.

The 6.4 (in my experience) is a powerful money pit. deleted and tuned, they are monsters, but reliability is still in question, not to mention repair costs.

If your fuel pump goes, you are looking at around a $12,000 shop bill, due to the lines and injectors being replaced as well. cab-off repair.

you can blow a head gasket (the 6.4 isn't quite as bad as the 6.0 for head gaskets, but not by much)

The turbos are notorious for going out. (I think it's a much lower risk after deleting)

most importantly, the 6.4 is not built for longevity. I have yet to see any in person go more than 150k on the stock block. I haven't even heard of one going more than 250k, even deleted. i'm sure they are out there, but few and far between. I have seen a few with only ~70k miles and already a good deal of blowby. The lifters are also prone to wear out past 100k.


yes, I may be biased, but I wouldn't do it. If I were to get another truck, I would spend the extra for a new 6.7. those motors are built much better and they play nicer with the emissions BS.

I'm sorry if this offends anyone.
 
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Old 02-25-2016, 08:54 AM
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wow...stay clear of the 6.4

a. rocker arm problems
b. lifter problems
c. cavitation of the front water pump plate
d. hgh presure fuel pump does not get enough lube from #2 diesel and as a result shears metal into the fuel system
e. injectors get stuck open by item d) and melt pistons
f. the regen process will add quarts of fuel to your oil seizing your engine as it over heats
h. egr problems which over heat the engine
i. the oil cooler system uses a heat exchange unit that transfers heat to the coolant system in stead of being of a radiator design. the heat exchange unti cloggs on both side both the oil side and coolant side will clog.
j. there seems to be problems with the fuel system design in that the water seperator does not work and for model years that have indicator lights those dont work.
k. the engine just does not have the seat of the pants power when you punch the pedal , in some models the engine is tuned intentionally to produce less power.
L. the radiatos leak as a result of fram flexing which bow the radiator and crack plastic parts.
M. and as indicatd, repairs seem to be in multitudes of 4K. 4K for this problem, 8K for that problem, 12K for the new problem, etc.
N. go to the ford ESP website and get an understanding of the relationship between the model year, existing miles, and the miles you will be covered at during the life of the ESP and for which componet. So for example, I can buy an top of the line ESP for my 2010 if it has 50k miles on it and the miles allowed under the warranty would be 108,000 miles so I would have almost 60K of coverage for the 5 years. Type in 89K miles and the top of the line warranty offer can't be picked. type in 79K and you can get a top of the line warranty which again will expire at 108,000 miles. In other words, FORDS statisical data tells ford that these engines will be cost prohibitive to provide warranty for once they hit 108,000 miles. SO I bought my truck at 84K and did not know the bet was against me that the truck would last 24K more miles.
 
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Old 02-25-2016, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
wow...stay clear of the 6.4
You're quite negative. It's a wonder any of these trucks ever made it off the dealer lot, let alone past the warranty period.
 
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Old 02-26-2016, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
wow...stay clear of the 6.4

a. rocker arm problems
b. lifter problems
c. cavitation of the front water pump plate
d. hgh presure fuel pump does not get enough lube from #2 diesel and as a result shears metal into the fuel system
e. injectors get stuck open by item d) and melt pistons
f. the regen process will add quarts of fuel to your oil seizing your engine as it over heats
h. egr problems which over heat the engine
i. the oil cooler system uses a heat exchange unit that transfers heat to the coolant system in stead of being of a radiator design. the heat exchange unti cloggs on both side both the oil side and coolant side will clog.
j. there seems to be problems with the fuel system design in that the water seperator does not work and for model years that have indicator lights those dont work.
k. the engine just does not have the seat of the pants power when you punch the pedal , in some models the engine is tuned intentionally to produce less power.
L. the radiatos leak as a result of fram flexing which bow the radiator and crack plastic parts.
M. and as indicatd, repairs seem to be in multitudes of 4K. 4K for this problem, 8K for that problem, 12K for the new problem, etc.
N. go to the ford ESP website and get an understanding of the relationship between the model year, existing miles, and the miles you will be covered at during the life of the ESP and for which componet. So for example, I can buy an top of the line ESP for my 2010 if it has 50k miles on it and the miles allowed under the warranty would be 108,000 miles so I would have almost 60K of coverage for the 5 years. Type in 89K miles and the top of the line warranty offer can't be picked. type in 79K and you can get a top of the line warranty which again will expire at 108,000 miles. In other words, FORDS statisical data tells ford that these engines will be cost prohibitive to provide warranty for once they hit 108,000 miles. SO I bought my truck at 84K and did not know the bet was against me that the truck would last 24K more miles.

the oil cooler issue is actually worse on the 6.0 than the 6.4.
When the 6.4 clogs up, at least it isn't restricting the EGR cooler, causing rupture. yes, the 6.4 EGR coolers still rupture, but at least it's not because of the oil cooler. The oil cooler is also (from what i've been told) a lot easier to get to on the 6.4.

each truck has its advantages and disadvantages. The main disadvantages on the 6.4 are expensive repairs and a short engine lifespan. This is my problem with it. If reliability and repair cost was equal to the 6.0, I would love to have a 6.4. The 6.4, when healthy, is a riot when tuned and deleted. My tuned 6.0 is fast, but it doesn't hold a candle to a well tuned 6.4. Both trucks have very durable transmissions, so they are equal in that regard.

Like I said in my last post, I like the 6.7 myself. I've worked a good bit with those as well and they have very impressive power when stock. I have also seen them with 100k, 150k, 180k miles and they seem to hold up pretty well without too much financial drama. The biggest thing is the turbo on the '11-12 years and some of the early '11s having a valve issue that can grenade the engine.
In the next year or two or three, I'll probably end up getting myself a '17 or '18 powerstroke. I would drive my 6.0 as long as possible, but it is 2wd and I have concluded I need 4x4.
 
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Old 02-26-2016, 04:23 PM
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Hmmm, anyone who does like their 6.4L? You hear this same stuff when people buy a 6.0 too..
 
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Old 02-26-2016, 07:18 PM
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I am not going to go into great detail here, we have enough of these threads/topics.


I will be the first and NOT THE LAST to tell you to ignore speak... I love my 6.4, that doesn't mean I am going to tell you to jump on the 6.4 bandwagon though.


You want my 2 cents? Go read some of my posts and Toren's posts on powerstroke.org. But, 90% of the major failures on a 6.4 can be avoided... The 10% that are left over unfortunately are still major just because of their cost.

Personally, if you have a good running 6.0 that has treated you well... Keep the damn thing. Yes, there is currently nothing (diesel wise) on the road that drives like a 6.4. And your 6.0 will NEVER make the power that a 6.4 is capable of making. But when you compare the 2 (and actually when you compare a 6.0 to any common rail diesel) a 6.0 is damn hard to kill. Yes they have a lot of little annoying things, but the very fact that if you run it low on oil it will shut off due to being a HEUI motor pretty much means that you have to try and kill it.


A 6.4.... Wellllllll... The moment you abuse it, you can say good bye to your life savings. Most repairs must be done cab up so its the driveway mechanic's worst enemy. And when something breaks on a 6.4, it usually takes the motor with it.

Now, a well cared for 6.4 that is deleted and has never had anything but a mild (100hp or less) tune is nothing to be afraid of.
The best description of a 6.4 is this: Think of it as the difference between a Honda and a Mercedes, you are going to pay for the comfort and performance. And just like any diesel something will eventually break. If you don't know and understand the weak points of a 6.4 you are inviting some big repair bills. Ohhhhh yah, and the fact that a stock 6.4 with just a tune and deletes can make upwards of 550hp with over 1000ftlbps of tq means things get expensive quick when we talk about tuning.

They are a completely different animal when compared to any other light duty diesel on the market.
 
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