Hey just wondering if anyone could help me out a bit. I installed the H&S mini maxx back in august 2015. I've noticed my mpg is actually worse I get around 11.5 on average. I have changed my settings a few times to try to get different results but nothing major like everyone on threads were talking about. I also have an issue with my radiator. I have a leak I'm sure of it. Ive noticed a faint smell of antifreeze since I bought it back in March 2015. I also have issues with my serpentine belt squeaking when it gets wet. I know I also need an oil change. I have the oil and oil filter along with the serpentine belt just haven't had time to put them on. Didn't know if anyone might know what's going on... 2008 f250 6.4 has almost 148,000 miles on it bought with 134,000 on it. I also got a code from my mini maxx on my engine didn't know if anyone had an idea of what it all meant.

 

you installed a min maxx but don't have time for an oil change and belt replacement. my advice would be to pull out the service schedule and ensure the service schedule has been met. take off the mini maxx. and hope that coolant smell is not coolant coming out the exhaust. check for white smoke. oil in coolant. milky colored oil. heater that does not work. oil levels that rise while coolant disappears.

 

I know it's not from the exhaust because its done it since before I put the mini maxx in. Let me correct myself it's not that I don't have time it's I have no where to do it. Garage I was supposed to do it in has no room. There's no white smoke. I check the oil and it's not a milky color either. Heater works extremely great. Like I said above. There is a small leak in the radiator. The belt only squeaks when it gets wet. I check my fluids every time I fill up. Oil is fine it's not like I've ran it forever with out an oil change. I'm not that stupid. And it's not like my coolant level goes down fast it's very slow. It's only every so often I smell a faint smell of antifreeze. It's not every day. I'm just concerned because some people say it could be turbo. Which I'm hoping it's not. Im just hoping it's a sensor or something minor.

 

Take off the mini max, really, you think she's abusing the snot out of the truck. We don't know nor do we need to know how many miles are on the last oil change, she let us know it was over, she read enough to know when it should be changed, it's her nickel. I have personally gone 8,000 between changes and had the oil tested at Blackstone and the oil was still good to go more, with no out of normal wear. So maybe we should try to help her with the code she's got and I'm sure she'll take care of the maintenance as soon as she can.

Something I found real quick, maybe it can help.

P2563 X X X
Turbocharger Boost Control
Position Sensor A Circuit
Range/Performance
This error occurs when the difference between the
turbocharger actuator commanded duty cycle and
the feed forward commanded duty cycle is less than
the threshold value for the given engine speed and
engine load for a predetermined period of time.
600 rpm Torque set point > 50 N-m
ECT > 70 deg C
IAT > -50 deg C
No DPF regeneration request
EP setpoint is stable
-60 % of desired
7.5 sec
System error

 

Sounds like the actuator mechanism could be binding? try to move it by hand with the key off. it should move freely, without binding, but it does have some weight to it, so it will take a slight force to get it moving. Does that make sense?

 

Can you not... I mean really. She already knows where the coolant smell is coming from, and until she fixes that leak the smell is going to stay there. Coolant from the exhaust is A LOT different than coolant from the radiator or a hose smell wise. One will have a burnt sweet smell, the other just smells like coolant. And again, if she removes her tuner she is kinda sol considering she is deleted. AAANNNNDDDD Coming from someone who has proven time and time again to have little to no understanding of the 6.4 I advise her to just ignore your post.


Now... For the problem at hand.
Start with the connector... I have seen a few that just flat our had chaffed wires and just changing the pigtail solved the problem. After that its kinda difficult to diag without an ids... But, when you turn the key to run (don't crank it) does that actuator arm cycle. You will physically see it (you will need someone to watch it from the front of the truck) move. If it does not you have either a failure within the actuator, electrical, or stuck veins.

If it does move then you probably have a sticking turbo. It is very uncommon for stock trucks to have sticking turbos because of the regen cycle. The heat cycles keep those veins clear of carbon buildup. But deleted trucks that don't get driven hard will have the same problems that a 6.0 does. The veins can rust or coke up causing this dtc to set. On a 6.4 it means turbo replacement.

If you get past checking wires and movement of the actuator you will need an ids or equivalent scan tool unfortunately. However, its about 15 min of diag for a reputable shop to get to the bottom.

Side note, exhaust leaks can fool the pcm into thinking the veins aren't actuating properly. Generally it will catch it and set other codes due to incorrect readings from sensors, or you will see it with your monitor. But, it can happen. Again, when doing a boost test with an ids a tech will see this.