looking for an under the hood supercharger for my 2003 x, any suggestions and recommendations ? Thanks guys

 

I do, stop looking unless you have plenty of disposable income. They are nearly impossible to find and when you do find one they cost all of the money.

 

ok i appreciate it thanks

 

They are difficult to find, usually when they become available they usually have parts missing. As Apoc mentioned when they are complete they do get pricey.

 

One can assemble a turbo kit using various common, popular, and thus cheap parts one hell of a lot easier than a supercharger. Given the proprietary airflow numbers I've seen from a similar project with very stock roots, you can get away with a 55mm without experiencing too big of a boost threshold, however fueling is going to be an issue no matter what. Once advantage is your trans should like the ramped FI power curve a bit more over the immediate version provided by a supercharger.

Provided you yourself have fabrication skills, or access to some good welding and fab people it's not unreasonably priced. Getting something with a T4 flange will go a long ways in keeping the turbo choices open and plentiful as well. A 76 with an .80-.95A/R should match up to the motor's numbers nicely in theory.

Something like a Holset hybrid 35/40 wouldn't be too bad, theoretically a turbo off a 6.5 Chevy could work as well, but both are on the smaller side. 5-7psi should keep you haply but even at that lower range, the projected BSHP is going to have your injectors leaning out so hard it's not funny. A Lightning MAF should get you by but would be damn close to saturation at that point as well. One of the biggest hurdles is finding something that will work with the overall compressor map you're most likely going to be looking at, big cubes but a somewhat lazy motor. You'll most likely end up with something smaller to get you going with some authority but it's going to run out before the redline. If the injector connectors are in the EV6 department, I think a set of 03-04 Cobra injectors (plus a couple extra) that were reconditioned should meet the fueling needs.

In the end, going with a safe amount of nitrous isn't a terrible idea. Keep it at or below 1/3 of the motor's total peak output and it won't be detrimental to anything. You'll need some tuning work to make it safe and reliable however.

Boost is fun, regardless of its form - it's the supporting modifications that people overlook when it comes to the budgeting. Head and main studs, fueling, etc... Then the rest of the drivetrain and so on and so forth. The 4R100 is by no means deserving of the reputation the Internet has given it, but it's still going to be a weaker link overall. Once you fix one thing, the weak link just moves somewhere else.

Throw a 100-shot on it with a progressive throttle input and I think you'll be quite happy. Downside is it costs on average $45-50 around here to fill a 10-lbs bottle so there's always a continuous cost involved. However you can have a LOT of fun with the same amount of money you'd get with going FI.

 

If you go the turbocharged route the thread linked below may help.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-see-this.html

 

Wouldn't a kit for an 04 5.4L work? the architecture is the same as long as all the accessories haven't moved.

 

A lot of them share the same components, yes.

 

A turbo 6.8 might be fun... Matt, other than a MAF and injectors should everything else be able to keep up? I assume a new FPR would be needed but the fuel pump should be fine for under 6psi. right? A twin setup would be SWEET!!! Think I might need to head to Snowseeker to have him fab something up lol

 

It probably should, not sure about the fuel pump. Higher flow pumps usually require a more durable filter to resist the extra pressures but not always.

I don't have any solid experience on turbo 6.8's or boosted applications on them, but most basics stay the same across any motor whether it's a V10, a V8, or a 4-popper. Plus side is they're worn in a bit already, so you have basically given them the required extra clearance. That's why junker LS motors last so long with turbos, at 150k miles they have those few extra tenths or couple thou worn in. Anyone that says a certain motor responds well to boost needs to be slapped. ALL motors respond well to boost.

Almost anything will need head and main studs to be absolutely safe, although lower boost pressures don't necessarily mandate them. Still something I would do however.

Prior to boosting, the engine history needs to be known and checked of course. Boost is a damn good way to cause a negligible problem to become readily apparently in a hurry.

 

Just to take this conversation a in a different direction............(and not to take anything away from Matt, who knows his shiz-nit with motors but....)
What exactly is your goal? And budget? Just general hotrodding or are you towing heavy and want more grunt? Operating at high elevations and looking to get back that power lost to the elevation? Kenne Bell used to make a roots blower for these V-10s but they are no longer available, nor do they still support them with any parts.
What gears (both actual gear set ratio and effective ratio due to tire size difference from stock) are you currently running? Barring forced induction or nitrous gears are the most effective performance improvement for a V-10, they love to rev so deeper gears move everything up into more efficient parts of the RPM range.

 

I am a lucky guy. I have a V10 KB kit....only 95% complete though. Haven't installed it yet.

What I can tell you is the kit uses the oem upper intake manifold. A aluminum lower is supplied as I guess the plastic oem one caused some type of issue.

The KB is attached with a 2 piece adapter. I would think a 5.4 kit could work if oem intake was part of kit.

Electronics would be wrong so custom tuning would be needed....just like me.

If you do supercharge or turbo, I think the 1st step is to swap out vacuum brake booster for a hydro boost setup from a diesel. I have done this step and like it.

I agree KB kits are expensive, and will only go up. I got mine from a salvage yard and they sold it to me for a reasonable price as I don't think they knew what they had.

It would take significant amount to get me to part with it.

 

You know Tom, before I even started the next sentence I KNEW you were going to mention gears, haha

The entire blower housing sits on the lower. Not exactly the most rigid nor robust material for the job by itself, let alone with many more atmospheres getting pumped through it


A side note to add here is boost is actually just a pressure build-up on a restriction. We used to get so many people bitching about losing boost numbers after we'd port their heads... No **** you lost boost, the heads are flowing much better than before. Then inevitably the idiot street squirrels would crank the boost back up to where it was and then wonder why they were blowing stuff up Because before you were running 10-psi through a 285cfm port and now you're trying to run 10-psi through a 345cfm port. Ugh.

I'd also port ANY gasser head before I port a diesel head. Don't even get me started...

 

On my V10 KB kit the adapter and blower bolt to the upper manifold, after the throttle body plenum is removed. In place of the plenum, if you are saying the 2 pieces left are both lower intake manifolds than KB instructions name the parts wrong.

 

Which companies make S/C kits for the V-10 Excursions?


I love BOOST!!!