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I'm not rock, but you should be able to do it with two relays, because the relays would isolate the power from each other and prevent back feed to the high beams. That said, I would ask myself if I would actually use that feature much...
Edit- actually I would use 3 relays... So you aren't adding any draw to the high beam circuit.
I'll have to look at what the amp draw is on the 2 relays for the light kits. I bet a contact off the high beam relay would easily handle the amp draw for those two relays and there's no chance of backfeeding the high beams.
I'm looking at this light kit for a new 2017 Super Duty I'll be taking delivery on later this year. I'm considering wiring two upfitter switches in parallel to both relays. One of the upfitter switches would have a contact off the high beam relay tied in series upstream of where it connects to the relay coils. I figure I can leave that switch on and the light bars will swap on and off with the high beams, or I can flip the other upfitter switch on and it will keep them on constantly. What do you think Rock?
I'm not Rock either but are you sure you want to do that? Around here these kind of lights are illegal to use on the highway. I still do because we live next to nowhere but having them come on every time you switch to high beams may get sketchy and would really limit your use of high beams on roads like divided highways.
I'm not Rock either but are you sure you want to do that? Around here these kind of lights are illegal to use on the highway. I still do because we live next to nowhere but having them come on every time you switch to high beams may get sketchy and would really limit your use of high beams on roads like divided highways.
They aren't illegal where I live in Alaska. And we have about 40 miles of divided highway within 500 miles of where I live. But the option I'm talking about would give me one upfitter switch to turn the lights on regardless of if high beams are on, call it switch 1. Switch 2 would allow the lights swap on and off with high beams, but only if it's on. So if Switch 1 and 2 are both off, no extra lights will be coming on.
I'll have to look at what the amp draw is on the 2 relays for the light kits. I bet a contact off the high beam relay would easily handle the amp draw for those two relays and there's no chance of backfeeding the high beams.
You would still need the three relays..
(first switch)
one from the first switch to the relay, connected to battery, direct to light bars.
Second switch:
one relay directly connected to switch... other relay from the high beam(as the switch) that connects to battery, and that battery output would go to the other relay, to power the lights.. if you skip out on the second relay, you either have to have enough juice on the switch, or enough juice on the high beam circuit to handle the light bars.
(first switch)
one from the first switch to the relay, connected to battery, direct to light bars.
Second switch:
one relay directly connected to switch... other relay from the high beam(as the switch) that connects to battery, and that battery output would go to the other relay, to power the lights.. if you skip out on the second relay, you either have to have enough juice on the switch, or enough juice on the high beam circuit to handle the light bars.
Hmm, I guess I figured to use the high beam relay as my third relay. The high beam relay on my 2005 F150 had an aux contact not being used. I was going to use that to drive the 2 relays when using the highbeam upfitter switch.
Hmm, I guess I figured to use the high beam relay as my third relay. The high beam relay on my 2005 F150 had an aux contact not being used. I was going to use that to drive the 2 relays when using the highbeam upfitter switch.
If there is enough juice, then go for it.... I am new to these trucks, so I don't know about all of the extra connections.... yet... but I do understand electrical.
If there is enough juice, then go for it.... I am new to these trucks, so I don't know about all of the extra connections.... yet... but I do understand electrical.
Here is a rough sketch. The "HB" relay is the third relay. It's either an OEM installed relay with all lighting systems, or they're doing things different. If it's not there, I'll add a third relay that taps into the 12 volt signal to the high beams.
The plan the whole time was to use three relays, I'm just hoping to tap into one already installed on the truck.
I figure I can leave that switch on and the light bars will swap on and off with the high beams, or I can flip the other upfitter switch on and it will keep them on constantly. What do you think Rock?
I'm not Rock, but I just did this for my PIAA lights. Except I skipped the whole manual upfitter switch part. If I want the PIAA lights on, they'll be on with the brights. I don't, the brights won't be on anyway. No need to futz with upfitters, because it's already on a manual switch: the high beam or low beam selection I make. Only difference is in your case you'd use the blue wire to tap into the high beam for triggering the relay (on the PIAA harness it's a white wire).
And no, in Texas it's not illegal to use DOT approved auxiliary lighting (fogs, driving, etc) on the road, with the limitation being no more than 4 forward facing lights on at any given time, I think. So I have the factory fogs on with the low beams and then the PIAAs (or LED bar or whatever else I went with) on with the brights. Easy and clean. Why make life more complicated than it needs to be?
Originally Posted by -dave-
having them come on every time you switch to high beams may get sketchy and would really limit your use of high beams on roads like divided highways.
Do not use your high beams on divided highways. If I catch you shining your high beams through my windshield, I'll sic my PIAAs on you
Connect any aftermarket lights into the vehicle lights, canbus can cause weird problems, even something as simple as replacing a canbus bulb with a non canbus bulb can cause your light to have problems.
Not saying it wouldn't work, just saying I wouldn't do it.
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