Rough Country LED Install: HELP Needed
Post Fiend
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 13,710
Likes: 5
From: Manchester, CT
I would just use one of the lowest rated upfitter switches, and use the output to trigger both relays for the light bars. Why waste one of the 25a switches if you already paid for the wiring harnesses with relays when you bought the light bars
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Thanks for all the feedback
Thanks for all the feedback. I'm going to keep the relays from Rough Country and just connect via the 10 amp upfitter.
I really appreciate the help. Should be able to find time to do this sometime this week. Can't wait to see how strong they are!
I really appreciate the help. Should be able to find time to do this sometime this week. Can't wait to see how strong they are!
New User
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
which switch wire do i use
so i am doing basically the same thing. I am installing 2 30" rough country bars on my 2012 f250. I am planning to use both of the factory supplied wiring harness and just use the upfitter for the switching part. The supplied switch (which i am removing) has a white, blue and black wire. I assume one of those wires is used to light the switch. Has anybody figured out which wire needs go to the hot on the upfitter switch and which is ground? What do i do with the three wires?
And since i am just using the upfitter to power the switch, and keeping the relays supplied with the two harness', could i just wire both switch wires to the same upfitter?
its almost midnight here and i think im in over my head on this one..
thanks
And since i am just using the upfitter to power the switch, and keeping the relays supplied with the two harness', could i just wire both switch wires to the same upfitter?
its almost midnight here and i think im in over my head on this one..
thanks
Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
I just took mine apart, white supplies power to the switch, black is ground, blue is the actual relay control, pushing the button joins the white and blue and trips the relay. So the upfitterswitch needs to be connected to blue.
I would recommend disconnecting the switch at the plug, then slide the wire loom on the relay side of the switch cable back and clip it off, leaving 2-3 inches of wire on the plug side, so that you can reinstall it later if you decide to ever use the switch, or sell the lights. Tape off the white and black, and connect the blue to whichever pass through wire you decide to use, if you have both lights, and want to use one upfitterswitch connect both blues together and then connect to the pass through. I would use the upfitterswitch with the least amperage, saving the bigger ones for later.
I would recommend disconnecting the switch at the plug, then slide the wire loom on the relay side of the switch cable back and clip it off, leaving 2-3 inches of wire on the plug side, so that you can reinstall it later if you decide to ever use the switch, or sell the lights. Tape off the white and black, and connect the blue to whichever pass through wire you decide to use, if you have both lights, and want to use one upfitterswitch connect both blues together and then connect to the pass through. I would use the upfitterswitch with the least amperage, saving the bigger ones for later.
New User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I installed Rough Country's 30 inch dual setup less than 2 months ago and one of the lights already has condensation behind the lens. The condensation is along the entire length of the light bar. It looks like a cheap light bar now. If I hadn't already cut my grill in order to install these lights I wouldn't do it. I am very disappointed.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 136
Likes: 3
From: Bucks County, PA
I installed Rough Country's 30 inch dual setup less than 2 months ago and one of the lights already has condensation behind the lens. The condensation is along the entire length of the light bar. It looks like a cheap light bar now. If I hadn't already cut my grill in order to install these lights I wouldn't do it. I am very disappointed.
While I too worried about the light quality, so far so good. Knock on wood.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,534
Likes: 1
From: Missoula
Originally Posted by -dave-
Sound like a broken seal. They do claim a 3 year warranty so that should be your first call.
While I too worried about the light quality, so far so good. Knock on wood.
While I too worried about the light quality, so far so good. Knock on wood.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
New User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I contacted them already and they told me it is normal to get condensation behind the lens and that I should just run them for awhile to clear it up. I did run them for and hour with no change. So I replied back via email and told them I'd like a replacement. They have not responded since last week.
Here is their initial response to me:
"It is common for the lights to get condensation in them. Will need to run them for a little bit and it will clear up. The lights are vented. "
Here is their initial response to me:
"It is common for the lights to get condensation in them. Will need to run them for a little bit and it will clear up. The lights are vented. "
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 243
Likes: 16
From: Estacada, Oregon
I haven't purchased a light bar yet.... but I will be in the next couple of months. The very first thing I do after an out of the box inspection of the light, will be to seal around the lens with some clear silicone (Lexel Adhesive Caulk) . From what I have heard (from several people) is that the lenses will allow just a little bit of moisture in and doing this will keep the condensation out of the housing.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 812
Likes: 4
I just took mine apart, white supplies power to the switch, black is ground, blue is the actual relay control, pushing the button joins the white and blue and trips the relay. So the upfitterswitch needs to be connected to blue.
I would recommend disconnecting the switch at the plug, then slide the wire loom on the relay side of the switch cable back and clip it off, leaving 2-3 inches of wire on the plug side, so that you can reinstall it later if you decide to ever use the switch, or sell the lights. Tape off the white and black, and connect the blue to whichever pass through wire you decide to use, if you have both lights, and want to use one upfitterswitch connect both blues together and then connect to the pass through. I would use the upfitterswitch with the least amperage, saving the bigger ones for later.
I would recommend disconnecting the switch at the plug, then slide the wire loom on the relay side of the switch cable back and clip it off, leaving 2-3 inches of wire on the plug side, so that you can reinstall it later if you decide to ever use the switch, or sell the lights. Tape off the white and black, and connect the blue to whichever pass through wire you decide to use, if you have both lights, and want to use one upfitterswitch connect both blues together and then connect to the pass through. I would use the upfitterswitch with the least amperage, saving the bigger ones for later.
New User
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
I'm looking at this light kit for a new 2017 Super Duty I'll be taking delivery on later this year. I'm considering wiring two upfitter switches in parallel to both relays. One of the upfitter switches would have a contact off the high beam relay tied in series upstream of where it connects to the relay coils. I figure I can leave that switch on and the light bars will swap on and off with the high beams, or I can flip the other upfitter switch on and it will keep them on constantly. What do you think Rock?
Edit- actually I would use 3 relays... So you aren't adding any draw to the high beam circuit.