I have a 1995 Ranger 4X4 w/ODBII. I have searched many places about pulling ABS codes. I have looked behind the passenger kick panel and did not find the Red/Black w,Orange wire connector( as posted in another thread). I did find a connector next to the computer. This connector had two wires going into the connector. One was Red & Yellow the other was Black & White. this connector was not connected to anything. I have put a code reader on the ODBII connector and it seems to link up to the computer but I don't get any codes. This reader may not be capable of reading ABS codes. Should I be able to pull the ABS codes from the ODBII? When I look at code readers that claim to be able to pull the ABS codes they say from 1996 & newer. Thanks for any help that you can give me.
Bob

 

Welcome to FTE.

As I understand it, some 95 Rangers were OBD-2 & some were still OBD-1 but had the DLC moved from under hood to inside under dash, to the left side of the steering wheel, where our OBD-2 DLC is. If your 95 Ranger is OBD-2 & your OBD-2 code reader, or scantool was able to physically plug into the DLC & shake hands with the computer, then you might have a 95 OBD-2 Ranger & be interested in the inexpensive ELM scantool running FORScan software to your viewing device choice as discussed here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html
This combination can scan all of the OBD-2 vehicle controller/computers including the ABS system, which most generic code readers or scantools won't.

As I also understand it, on OBD-1 there was an under dash ABS connector we could access to have it blink out ABS codes, sorta like we could using a paper clip on the under hood OBD-1 DLC, to get the check engine light to blink the engine computer codes.
OBD-2 systems didn't have this separate ABS connector access, so until the inexpensive ELM-327 came along, we had to have a costly high end scantool to access the ABS & other vehicle computer/controllers through the under dash OBD-2 DLC, or take it to a Dealer or shop with a high end scantool & pay them big bucks to get a trouble code scan.
Actron has a separate ABS only scantool out now, but I know nothing about it. Its likely more costly than the inexpensive ELM scantool that'll do Way more, for Way fewer bucks than most consumer code readers or scantools.
Some thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

 

pawpaw,
Thanks for the reply. I ordered the ELM327 last night from Amazon. It is suppose to be here Friday. I will let you know how it works what what I find.
Thanks,
Bob

 

ELM327 WiFi came today. After trying to follow the CD that came with it I finally gave up and plugged the 327 into the Ranger and started it up. Went to my laptop and it recognized the WiFi signal from the 327. I had already downloaded FORScan so I started FORScan and it linked to the 327. Got ABS codes 1185(Relay output circuit failure), 1145 & 1148 both pointing to the right front wheel. Temperature is 34 and wind is blowing. I will check into the problem tomorrow.
Thanks for letting me know about the 327 and FORScan.
Bob

 

OK, good feedback & to hear the ELM & Forscan have proven friendly, useful & shook hands ok with your 95 computer & found some ABS trouble code clues.
Here is a link for vehicle electrical pictorials that might prove handy in trouble shooting your ABS system. Search Wiring Diagrams Enter the asked for vehicle particulars, choose the system your interested in, have it search & click on the file/s it finds to view the electrical info for that system. Let us know what you find.

Don't know who you bought the ELM from on Amazon, but ref the ELM set up CD, did you scan it for Malware before using???? If not, I'd scan the computer you used to make sure its clean, as there have been reports of Malware being found on some of those CD's that'll down load to our machine & cause mischief, or spy.

 

Are the above "C" codes & the descriptions from the FORScan definitions library???

 

Yes. FORScan linked to the Ranger and automatically downloaded the different systems. The "C" code #'s are correct. I did not post everything the descriptions said.

 

Ok good feedback, on them being "C" codes & FORScan definitions. Let us know what you find.

 

I started trouble shooting the right front ABS by unhooking the battery + and pulling the connector apart on right front ABS lead. Ohmmeter shows 1ohm but slowly goes higher. The left front ABS lead acts the same way. I decided to pull the right front ABS sensor. I got the 8mm bolt out but could not pull the ABS sensor by hand. I sprayed some PB Blaster around the sensor and tried prying it back and forth. At first it was tight but I can now get some movement back and forth but when I pry under the sensor it does not appear to move outward. I do not see anything that looks like it might be holding the sensor from the back. Is this thing just being stubborn or am I doing something wrong?

 

Hold on, with the ABS power relay trouble code you have I'd first begin a trouble shoot with a check of the fuses & fuse contacts that powers the ABS power relay & the fused ABS system power the relay is switching. If both are ok then check the ABS power relay pin/socket contacts for looseness or corrosion, then if ok maybe a thump & wiggle test on the ABS power relay to see if its sticking internally & it'll wake up. See if you can measure & see its getting power from its fuse to it to operate its solenoid that closes its contacts that switch voltage to power up the ABS system, or try swapping it out for a known good like relay, to see if the ABS no power trouble code will clear.
Use the electrical pictorial link to look up the 4wheel brake ABS system, to see which fuses to check & which relay operates the ABS system. Let us know what you find.
The ABS wheel sensors bore may have rust deposits holding them tight in place, but no need to remove them just yet, as your ABS power relay trouble code suggests you need to begin the trouble shoot there, not with the wheel sensors.
Keep us posted on your findings.

 

Thanks. I will start where you recommend. Actually this makes more sense because occasionally the ABS light will go out while driving and the brakes act like the ABS is active.

 

Power relays internally are a common problem part, so belong fairly high up on the suspect list. There have been a few reports of their power distribution box socket contacts corroding & causing intermittent mischief, so be sure to remove the ABS power relay & fuses too & check for corrosion, or looseness of fit.

 

OK I have checked all of the fuses for connection & voltage. I have checked the main power relay for voltage and operation by verifying voltage through the contacts to other circuits. I verified voltage to all points in the circuit wiring. I used a 12V bulb to ground where possible and a voltmeter at other locations. I also continuity checked as many leads as possible from the controller connector(C154) to the other circuits. I also checked the Ground path. I even pulled the ground connector and cleaned it. Other than a little corrosion on the ground to the chassis I did not find anything wrong. While I had C154 off of the controller I checked across the leads going to the speed sensors. The left front & the rear sensors each read 1.019Kohms & 1.022Kohms. The right front read almost 20Mohms. I disconnected the right front sensor and read the same from the connector to the sensor. I got a new sensor from Advanced Auto($71 NAPA wanted $101) and it read 1.044K. I installed the new sensor and still cannot clear ABS 1145. I removed the new sensor & connected it to the left front connector and it did not bring in any codes(1145 was still in because the path was open). I put the new sensor back on the right and verified continuity again. Thinking that the trouble is now pointing to the controller I pulled the controller and checked across all the sensor leads & from GRD & BAT to each lead. Everything checked the same. I put the controller back in & disconnected each front sensor lead. I then started the truck and checked for BAT & GRD for each lead. I got 2.4V and GRD on each lead. At this point I am stymied.

 

Ok, good trouble shooting & feedback. I'm not completely clear on the RF wheel sensor circuit resistance tests & how things were configured when you moved the new wheel sensor to the LF & the 1145 code cleared.

So lets think about this some more & back up to where you measured the RF sensor circuit resistance from connector C154 to the RF sensor & got the nearly 20 meg ohm reading. As I read & am understanding your post, it seems you were getting the high resistance reading on the wiring run with the RF sensor Disconnected/out of the circuit, is that right?

If so, it sounds like you have a wiring run resistance problem from C154 to the RF wheel sensor electrical connector.

When you moved the new RF wheel sensor to the LF & didn't get the 1145 code, was the old RF sensor out of the circuit during the test, was the RF sensor wiring circuit essentially open circuit, the wheel sensor end electrical connector Disconnected???

What does the Old disconnected RF wheel sensor resistance measure across its electrical connector contacts?

 

C1145=RF wheel sensor input circuit fault & C1148=RF coherency fault, so Stay focused on the RF circuit wiring high resistance reading, as that's confusing the ABS system & causing your woes.