New Head Gaskets
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
You'll need to have a reverse rotation drill hand drill to get the oil up into the block. Put the hand drill into the slowest speed as the pump don't turn all the fast.
It won't take long to get oil into it.
If it has points remember points fire when they open not close when setting the dizzy back in & timing it.
Do not force the dizzy down with the hold down bolt & clamp as it can damage the dissy lower retainer pin or the gears.
It will most likely not line up & drop straight down in as the it may only go haft way push lightly down for it to seat. As you may have turn the engine backwards a little. Or turn the crank while pushing it down. But could be one tooth off and if you can't turn the dizzy far enough to time at 6-8* BTDC then you may have to reset the dizzy back one tooth to get it timed correctly.
But remember the oil drive rod can come out again.
Orich
It won't take long to get oil into it.
If it has points remember points fire when they open not close when setting the dizzy back in & timing it.
Do not force the dizzy down with the hold down bolt & clamp as it can damage the dissy lower retainer pin or the gears.
It will most likely not line up & drop straight down in as the it may only go haft way push lightly down for it to seat. As you may have turn the engine backwards a little. Or turn the crank while pushing it down. But could be one tooth off and if you can't turn the dizzy far enough to time at 6-8* BTDC then you may have to reset the dizzy back one tooth to get it timed correctly.
But remember the oil drive rod can come out again.
Orich
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: San Tan Valley, Az
I posted this once but I don't see it so I will do it again. I'm confused now I think I'm just not seeing something. I got my drive rod for the distributor to oil pump today went to install it. My book I ordered didn't come in yet. The rod is 8 1/2 inches long with that retainer washer about 3/4 inch from one end. If I leave the washer on it wont go down through the hole at the bottom of the distributor and wont reach the oil pump. If I take the washer off by my measurements it will be long enough but the rod wont stay in the distributor it keeps falling out. So I cant spin the pump and push oil through the engine. Am I just not seeing something or am I making it harder than it is?
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
I used a 12"x 1/4" long hex socket extension. Some have a set screw an some have chuck that slides back and went you release it holds on to a bit or an adaptor to use for priming the oil pump.
Back in the 60's, I also use tape to hold a socket onto a hex adaptor bit to make sure it did not come on an drop into motor.
You will have to remove the washer to install the rod from to top. No other way. Or pull the pan & oil pump. But this is not easy as the engine must be jacked up to get the pan off.
I POSTED EARLIER that some guys used RTV to hold the rod into the dizzy lower shaft then try to stab it into the pump.
I've put one in a few time by using a magnet on the 10" long flex shaft.
NOT EZ cause it wants to pull back out.
Or some little clamping finger to set it into place.
The trouble with not doing the correct installation is most likely the rod will come out next time you pull the dizzy if you don't turn the crank in reverse a littler helps take the tension off the rod hopefully when pulling the dizzy out if needed for timing..
And at any start up after working on dizzy always check oil pressure or crank engine over with out the coil wire in and watch for oil pressure gauge.
A manual after market oil pressure gauge is best tho.
Orich
Back in the 60's, I also use tape to hold a socket onto a hex adaptor bit to make sure it did not come on an drop into motor.
You will have to remove the washer to install the rod from to top. No other way. Or pull the pan & oil pump. But this is not easy as the engine must be jacked up to get the pan off.
I POSTED EARLIER that some guys used RTV to hold the rod into the dizzy lower shaft then try to stab it into the pump.
I've put one in a few time by using a magnet on the 10" long flex shaft.
NOT EZ cause it wants to pull back out.
Or some little clamping finger to set it into place.
The trouble with not doing the correct installation is most likely the rod will come out next time you pull the dizzy if you don't turn the crank in reverse a littler helps take the tension off the rod hopefully when pulling the dizzy out if needed for timing..
And at any start up after working on dizzy always check oil pressure or crank engine over with out the coil wire in and watch for oil pressure gauge.
A manual after market oil pressure gauge is best tho.
Orich
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,396
Likes: 4
From: Cupertino
How about bondi-ing the rod to the shaft? Yeah, a Toothless Jake operation.
I remember dropping a rod on a small block decades ago. I pulled the pan and epoxied the stop washer to the rod.
This phenomenon is a major weakness in Ford engines. Really lousy design.
I remember dropping a rod on a small block decades ago. I pulled the pan and epoxied the stop washer to the rod.
This phenomenon is a major weakness in Ford engines. Really lousy design.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
I used a 12"x 1/4" long hex socket extension. Some have a set screw an some have chuck that slides back and went you release it holds on to a bit or an adaptor to use for priming the oil pump.
Back in the 60's, I also use tape to hold a socket onto a hex adaptor bit to make sure it did not come on an drop into motor.
You will have to remove the washer to install the rod from to top. No other way. Or pull the pan & oil pump. But this is not easy as the engine must be jacked up to get the pan off.
I POSTED EARLIER that some guys used RTV to hold the rod into the dizzy lower shaft then try to stab it into the pump.
I've put one in a few time by using a magnet on the 10" long flex shaft.
NOT EZ cause it wants to pull back out.
Or some little clamping finger to set it into place.
The trouble with not doing the correct installation is most likely the rod will come out next time you pull the dizzy if you don't turn the crank in reverse a littler helps take the tension off the rod hopefully when pulling the dizzy out if needed for timing..
And at any start up after working on dizzy always check oil pressure or crank engine over with out the coil wire in and watch for oil pressure gauge.
A manual after market oil pressure gauge is best tho.
Orich
Back in the 60's, I also use tape to hold a socket onto a hex adaptor bit to make sure it did not come on an drop into motor.
You will have to remove the washer to install the rod from to top. No other way. Or pull the pan & oil pump. But this is not easy as the engine must be jacked up to get the pan off.
I POSTED EARLIER that some guys used RTV to hold the rod into the dizzy lower shaft then try to stab it into the pump.
I've put one in a few time by using a magnet on the 10" long flex shaft.
NOT EZ cause it wants to pull back out.
Or some little clamping finger to set it into place.
The trouble with not doing the correct installation is most likely the rod will come out next time you pull the dizzy if you don't turn the crank in reverse a littler helps take the tension off the rod hopefully when pulling the dizzy out if needed for timing..
And at any start up after working on dizzy always check oil pressure or crank engine over with out the coil wire in and watch for oil pressure gauge.
A manual after market oil pressure gauge is best tho.
Orich
Plus the pump turns counter clockwise.
BUT THIS WILL ONLY FIX IT UNTIL THE NEXT TIME IT COMES OUT.
A lot more work to do it right but it won't happen again it dropping the pan & pump to install it correctly.
And using some JB weld epoxy to hold the washer in it's place so it won't slide down ever again is what, I do.
Or
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