Brad,

There's a couple of the threads where I show what I did, I've got one vid, processing three others. But it takes me a long time. I'm currently on my 12th revision for the current one on alts. And I shot it in November.

The existing wires can handle 110 amps, your doubling that. I showed you overkill on the cable above, but it's a good one to use in parallel with the existing wires, just run it alongside. You could also cover it with some split wire loom for protection if you like.

One the top of the passenger battery positive terminal there is a post that the alternator and glow plug cabling connects to. Attach the fuse holder there. The fuse fits onto the holder and the other end of the new cable off the alternator connects too. Pic below.

The only other cabling is optional. Recomended to add a 1/0 24" cable between the frame and engine block, that's in the "batteries" thread. Another cable but it only helps a little during cold weather starting, and that's a 70" 2ga cable between the positive terminals of the batteries. That runs in front of the radiator in parallel to the existing 2ga cable. These two added cables give you a consistent 1/0 cable in the batteries flow loop.

But your real issue is the lack of charging time and current to keep the batteries fully charged. That LN alternator is a huge improvement in your situation. Most of us don't need that big of a unit. It's a very well built unit from a commercial company that has built extreme duty parts for decades in NY state.

Just remember to disconnect the negative terminals at the batteries when you are doing the wiring. You'll have to reprogram the radio and any other fun stuff like that, but it's really safer.

 

Bryan,

I used to have nice expensive equipment at our facility, never had to buy things at home. I know there are better units out there, but since my use is home/farm based and not commercial I bought these units off Amazon. The smaller unit is what my first work is with, rated as a 200a unit. Once I started doing cold weather vids this winter on the 6.0, 200a was not enough so I got it's big brother. I'll add a pic of one calibration check I did for my vids, and they tracked very well. The larger unit has a slower capture rate so it made it difficult to capture peak amps. But so far the smaller one has worked great on the truck, farm tractors, cars, etc. It goes over its stated value to ~250a, but just as often OLs.

The 200a ac/DC was $70, the 800a AC/DC was $135.

 

Thank you sir. Very interesting

 

Alternator came today. Have the heavier wiring and fuse. Will install this weekend.

One last question: Is there an upgrade for the wiring where the plug is on the alternator? I seem to remember where some part of the wiring harness for the charging system, like some connector, could go bad and might need replacing. I would like the check that out, also.

Thanks again!

 

Just getting around to the install. The new alt is 1" higher, requiring longer bolts. Is this normal?

 

Yes. The case is much larger.

 

Good. I thought maybe the wrong one was sent.

 

Hmmmm, did you have a 110 amp before? Mine came with the bolts and a special patch harness, neither of which I had to use, but I did use the bolts.

 

Cannot get the pulley off of the old alternator. Is the nut normal right hand thread?

 

You'll need an air wrench to break it loose, it's easier with it still mounted with pressure on the belt to prevent slipping. Then use the kick stand to hold the tensioner and slide the belt off. Replace the unit, release the kickstand after you position the belt... done. 15 minute swap.

 

Yes, air impact and with the belt on, make sure you use the exact correct socket.

 

Project complete. Had a few hiccups, but considering the way things usually go for me, it was pretty straight forward. Had to drill the stock connecter to fit the larger stud on new alt. 13.5 to 15v. 13.5 at idle with smaller pulley.

 

good to hear, I drilled mine as well.

 

I could not find any "kickstand" on the belt tensioner. So, I used a ratchet strap to hold the 1/2" drive ratchet in place while I bolted down the alt. Had to fight a bit to get the ratchet back out, but it worked.

I didn't mess with the tensioner when taking off the old alt..just used the tip forward method. But couldn't use the same method installing the new alt because of the increased height of the unit.

Took a 8 mile ride last night. What a treat not having to worry about the charging system.

 

Belt tensioner kick stand in this thread, check the picture. You pull on the belt from the side of the truck, have an assistant lift the stand and catch the tensioner. When complete, just pull the belt again and the tensioner snaps out of the way.... done. I've done it by myself with something in place to lift the stand, but you better be ready for a tug-a-war, that belts under some good tension. I used a long screwdriver to lift it while holding the belt left handed.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...t-diagram.html