Heating problems
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 186
Likes: 1
From: Voorhees NJ
Heating problems
I have not been able to get heat out of the truck. I've had this problem since I purchased it over 10 years ago. I've replaced the heater core, and recently replaced the motor on a rebuild of my truck. I don't have A/C. As far as I can tell the mixing door works, and the cables are free. I just tried to block some of the air flow by blocking the grill with cardboard, and seemed to get even less heat! The gauge only has ever gotten as far s the edge of normal. Any suggestions will be helpful.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,831
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From: Angier, NC
You need to have a real way of knowing what the coolant temp is to start with as the stock factory gauges are not the greatest. Just to the edge of normal if working right is not normal, should be in the middle of normal.
Pick up a hand held IR gun to measure the radiator & hoses temp so you know what you are starting with. If coolant is not hot then heat will not be hot. Can you hold any of the hoses, radiator & heater core?
Are you running a stat in this rebuilt motor?
Did you have to use your old timing cover & water pump on the rebuilt?
What is the temp of the hoses going in & out of the radiator?
What is the temp of the hoses going in & out of the heater core?
For temp control of the heater is this just a blend door or a valve in 1 of the heater core hoses?
If valve by pass it to see what happens. If door you will have to look to MAKE SURE it is moving.
I cant see how blocking the air flow to radiator would cause less heat? Did it do anything to the gauge?
Dave ----
edit: what size motor?
Pick up a hand held IR gun to measure the radiator & hoses temp so you know what you are starting with. If coolant is not hot then heat will not be hot. Can you hold any of the hoses, radiator & heater core?
Are you running a stat in this rebuilt motor?
Did you have to use your old timing cover & water pump on the rebuilt?
What is the temp of the hoses going in & out of the radiator?
What is the temp of the hoses going in & out of the heater core?
For temp control of the heater is this just a blend door or a valve in 1 of the heater core hoses?
If valve by pass it to see what happens. If door you will have to look to MAKE SURE it is moving.
I cant see how blocking the air flow to radiator would cause less heat? Did it do anything to the gauge?
Dave ----
edit: what size motor?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 2,239
Likes: 5
From: Northeast Ohio USA
I have not been able to get heat out of the truck. I've had this problem since I purchased it over 10 years ago. I've replaced the heater core, and recently replaced the motor on a rebuild of my truck. I don't have A/C. As far as I can tell the mixing door works, and the cables are free. I just tried to block some of the air flow by blocking the grill with cardboard, and seemed to get even less heat! The gauge only has ever gotten as far s the edge of normal. Any suggestions will be helpful.
The T-Stat could be stuck or rated low such as a 180 degree. A 190-195 is better suited for the winter temps in your area.
Also, check the radiator cooling fan for proper operation. If it is clutched, the clutch may be seized causing the fan to be engaged constantly.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,831
Likes: 4,096
From: Angier, NC
When the engine was replaced (if a re-claimed engine), do you know what degree thermostat is/was in it?
The T-Stat could be stuck or rated low such as a 180 degree. A 190-195 is better suited for the winter temps in your area.
Also, check the radiator cooling fan for proper operation. If it is clutched, the clutch may be seized causing the fan to be engaged constantly.
The T-Stat could be stuck or rated low such as a 180 degree. A 190-195 is better suited for the winter temps in your area.
Also, check the radiator cooling fan for proper operation. If it is clutched, the clutch may be seized causing the fan to be engaged constantly.
Now no stat or stuck open the fan can be an issue but again would not show up till the stat went bad.
Still say he needs to see what the coolant temp is and the stat working.
Dave ----
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Northeast Ohio USA
Assuming the thermostat was working...A seized radiator coolant fan will continue to do it's job regardless of the environment and thermostat (stuck or not), causing the coolant to flow through the heater core at a lower, less desirable temperature for the region's ambient temperature. Simple science.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Northeast Ohio USA
Fuzz....I think You missed the point of My response all together...
My response was two-fold.
First, I was concerned if the thermostat in the REPLACEMENT engine was an original or was replaced.
Secondly, I was inquiring about the radiator cooling fan clutch being in operating condition and if not, may be causing an issue.
They may be separate operating issues depending on operating conditions.
My response was two-fold.
First, I was concerned if the thermostat in the REPLACEMENT engine was an original or was replaced.
Secondly, I was inquiring about the radiator cooling fan clutch being in operating condition and if not, may be causing an issue.
They may be separate operating issues depending on operating conditions.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 186
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From: Voorhees NJ
I've seen a lot of activity since I posted. The motor was rebuilt with all new parts by a recommended rebuilder that I visited while it was being put back together. I added a new water pump and a 190-95 thermostat. Also installed new sensors for coolant. The fan is a non clutch. The radiator was re cored by a well checked out rebuilder. I believe I've done everything right. I will on my next chance check temps of hoses,but they've always been hot to the touch
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Northeast Ohio USA
Inlet and Outlet hoses will always be warm to the touch given engine operating temperatures at or under 220 degrees, which are normal op temperatures.
---> [Quote]:The fan is a non clutch.
That should be an indicator...
---> [Quote]:The fan is a non clutch.
That should be an indicator...
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,951
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From: Virginia
When the engine is fully warmed up, both heater core hoses should be very hot. So hot that you can't hold onto them for very long. I think you indicated that this is true in one of your posts above.
So that means the heater core is hot. You must have a problem in the ducting system. I would just go ahead and take it apart and go through it. There is a blend door that mixes cold air in with the heated air.
So that means the heater core is hot. You must have a problem in the ducting system. I would just go ahead and take it apart and go through it. There is a blend door that mixes cold air in with the heated air.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
I have not pulled the AC parts truck apart yet to see if it is cable or vac or both. It is also partly apart when I got the truck, less motor and HVAC controls, so don't know how it worked either.
Dave ----
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 186
Likes: 1
From: Voorhees NJ
Checked the temps on the hoses,(143F) on both. Check hoses on radiator 107F. Seemed strange. Pretty sure I put a 195 stat in. One thing I'm suspicious about is that when I released the pressure on the rad cap I had none. Pretty sure that the stat has a bypass hole in it to keep from boiling over if it would stick. Need another day to check mixing door!