It may be a little premature, but I wanted a place to post my questions related to the build and I've got a pretty good collection of parts started. This is going to be a father-son project, and I expect to drive it a few years (not my daily) and "pass it on" to my son.

This is the truck in its current state. It is a plain 1994 f150 xl 2wd 4.9 auto. The truck has a/c, tilt, and cruise. That's about all the options I'm interested in. Some things I've already done to the truck include-
Trans cooler
3:73 gear
Brake controller
Water pump
Thermostat
Fan clutch
Belt
Factory tach instrument panel swap

Plans for the truck are a 4x4 conversion with a solid axle. @8" lift up front(10" on a 2wd) and 6" in the rear. 4:88 gear with a ls rear end. 15x10 black steel wheels and 37x13.50 super swamper m-16s. Black off road bumpers, billet grill, smoked head/tail lights. The larger swing mirrors in black. Steel cowl hood and black the tool box and bed caps. Also a redhead steering gear box.
Inside will see the seat recovered, a twin stick transfer case, and a good sounding stereo.


This is the 79 chassis I picked up for $300. Some of the things I still need to purchase are, f350 drag link, jbc adjustable trac bar and mount, 6" lift coils, axle rebuild kit, gears, shocks, jb customs twin stick kit, np 205 rebuild kit, and other stuff for sure.

This what I picked up today. It's a 4wd e4od out of a wrecked 95 Eddie Bauer. First thing I noticed when I walked up was how clean and dry it was. I pulled the torque converter off and the front of pump was spotless. Then I saw the date on the converter. I figured the truck was wrecked for a while judging from the dust/dirt on the truck. I bet this transmission has less than 5k on it. The guy saw me looking at the date and said if he had known that, he would have priced it higher. I also got the crossmember, skid plate, front driveshaft, cut up rear drive shaft(bent in wreck) and leaf springs. I gave 400 for all this. I think I did good. My next purchase will be the transfer case rebuild kit and the twin stick kit so I can get the transmission in.
I also plan on pulling the motor and resealing everything along with a cloydes adjustable timing gear and maybe some very minor head work. The cat and smog pump will be deleted and a mellow exhaust installed.

 

Ok, first mistake, how do I edit title, since I misspelled thread? Grammar is not my strong point. I do put forth a little effort, I just didn't pay attention in English class.

 

Not sure if you can edit the title. I'd just make a new thread if you can't!

 

Click on the "edit" button on your first post.

When the edit box opens, click "go advanced".

The text box will have your title line at the top, make the change & hit save.

 

Thanks, had to go to the main site. The app didn't have the advance.

 

looks like your off to a good start. i am in the process of a simlar build on an 88' F150.

 

I have a np205 transfer case. Ive read about some issues using it with the e4od.

1st off, will the np205 with its different gear reduction effect the computer in low range?

Planning on running a jb customs twin stick, will this work with my factory bench seat.

Can I get a small diameter driveshaft to clear the transmission. I will be running 8" of front lift, so this may not be an issue.

I've found these issues, but no definitive answers. Surely someone on here has done this combo.

 

That apears to be a 4WD e4od and a divorced 205, that is not going to work together. For that transfer case you need a 2WD transmission. Driveshaft wise I am sure you can get whatever diameter you want because it will all have to be custom made anyway.
And the computer won't care about the gear reduction of the transfer case.

 

No, it's a direct mount np205 out of a 79 f150. If it were a divorced mount I would not of had to buy the 4x4 tranny. I know I can get whatever I want for driveshafts, I had already planed on having them made, I guess I worded that question wrong. I meant, will the small diameter allow me to clear the corner of the pan, but I've since found out it's actually going to be the yoke that's the problem.

 

I took some rough measurements earlier, and yes the front driveshaft is going to be a issue. Hopefully I can find time this weekend to pull the transfer case and put it on the tranny and play with clocking it. If it's not going to work that sucks because I just ordered a seal and gasket kit from bronco graveyard. I've read where a couple people have made it work in old threads, but they don't give any details.

 

There will be some impact with the ratio differences effecting shift points while in low range, NP205 1.96:1 verses the BW1356 2.69:1 a difference of near 3/4 of a revolution.

Question is will it be enough to be noticeable? It might be as I'd think it would cause the trans to hold each gear to long which would or could prove to be a very undesirable trait.
Already at a gearing loss between those two transfer cases and then add to it by holding each gear out what might be way too long.

If you eliminate the low range feed circuit to the computer then the trans won't shift until rpms climb very high then suddenly jumps/leaps to the next gear as a forced response rather than a nice smooth change in a normal upshift based on ground speed.

Then does the NP205 input shaft match the E4OD, have you tried putting the to together? I believe it will or would physically bolt up both having the same 6 bolt matting surface but even if it does there are many 205 input shaft variations beyond that could effect your plans if different in anyway.

Have you tried matting the two to each other yet? check that and any possible shifter clearance/mounting issues?

jb customs twin stick or not, is there clearance for that center most shift rail? if bolted to the E4OD extension housing. Is it drilled and tapped for pivot bolt where you'll need it?
That shift rail encroaches into that 6 bolt pattern, something the 1346/1356 doesn't do in any way.

Anyway wanted to comment on the shift question, did just a little digging around on that whole NP205 feasibility aspect beyond that because I still have one out back too.

(Red arrow is not my doing, is was already on the picture I used to illustrate shift rail locations, possible conflict with the one on the left)

 

[quote=danr1]There will be some impact with the range differences effecting shift points in low range, NP205 [FONT=Verdana][SIZE=2]1.96:1 verses the BW1356 2.69:1 a difference of near 3/4 of a revaluation.

That shift rail encroaches into that 6 bolt pattern, something the 1346/1356 doesn't do in any way.


How does the gear reduction in the transfer case effect the computer but a ring and pinion change doesn't?

I noticed today that there is a notch on the mounting surface of the e4od, I guess that's for the shift rail. There goes the idea of clocking the transfer case.

 

I notice that notch too but looks clocked to high to run the TC in its normal position? then some extension housing appeared they had no such notch?

Ring and pinion change does effect shift points but the speed sensor can be adjusted to compensate it so the computer see the correct ground speed.

RPMs/engine load/ground speed/TPS etc = gear in use at any given moment.

If the extent of its future will be smash it to the floor until get the other side of the big hole only? then probably won't matter.

If its going to be more of a trail rig exploring at a more tame and or normal pace but with a lot of low range use? its shift schedule probably won't be ideal for that.

Keep in mind I'm in no way nor do I claim to be the final word on the subject, just throwing out what I believe will be the end result based on information I have and what I have seen first hand.

The computer knows what range the TC is in, it uses that information to maintain shift points mirroring to a degree that of high range. Change that one aspect and by enough it will effect it, desirable or not perhaps in a few weeks you tell us!

 

I was hoping to clock it downward to help with clearance.

I changed from a 3.08 to a 3.73, truck shifts fine, and I have read nothing about adjusting the speed sensor, how would you even adjust it?

Does the manual Borg Warner transfer case have an electric plug in that runs thru the computer?

I'm not arguing with you at all, just trying to learn. I hate to go thru this trouble, and spend the money, only to end up with a vehicle that does not perform correctly. If need be, I can get a Borg Warner transfer case. This isn't going to be a hard core off road rig by any means. Low range will probably only be used to pull someone out, or maneuver a heavy load around. Fire roads will probably be the extent of off roaring, but we have a few around with some pretty decent creek crossings.

 

Changed gearing in the 94? no effect on shift points as it reads ground speed off ring gear, changing tire size effects ground speed reading, not a gearing change.

I was speaking to that if it did, speed read off tail shaft, the speedo could be corrected for it.

The computer monitors the low range dash light circuit, that input changes shift points when senses power on pin 12.

And I didn't take your question/s to my comments as being argumentative, nope not even a little bit.