When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm getting a check trailer warning light on my 2005 F250. Factory installed tow package.
I have replaced male and female 7 blade connectors.
I have replaced all four magnets. (only one was bad)
I have re-grounded white wire.
I have replaced 12 volt breakaway battery. (just because)
When I pull the pin on break away and all tires lock up. (dragged across gravel pad)
I have towed another trailer to eliminate problem with truck.
All the trailer lights work as should.
I'm at a loss. I'm in the dog house with my spouse. Can someone throw me a bone?
I'm getting a check trailer warning light on my 2005 F250. Factory installed tow package.
I have replaced male and female 7 blade connectors.
I have replaced all four magnets. (only one was bad)
I have re-grounded white wire.
I have replaced 12 volt breakaway battery. (just because)
When I pull the pin on break away and all tires lock up. (dragged across gravel pad) I have towed another trailer to eliminate problem with truck.
All the trailer lights work as should.
I'm at a loss. I'm in the dog house with my spouse. Can someone throw me a bone?
Did the problem go away when you towed that other trailer? If it did NOT, replace the module as was suggested above.
Since you know the problem is between truck and this trailer, have you towed this trailer with another truck? That would help you as you know you have an open somewhere between truck and trailer and that would verify the diagnosis.
Use a jumper cable for a quick ground to make sure the ground is not broken somewhere and redo blue lead connection on seven pin cord in j box on trailer? If you have to, trace your circuits all the way along step-by-step on your trailer since you know the truck is good.
Since you know the problem is between truck and this trailer, have you towed this trailer with another truck? That would help you as you know you have an open somewhere between truck and trailer and that would verify the diagnosis.
Use a jumper cable for a quick ground to make sure the ground is not broken somewhere and redo blue lead connection on seven pin cord in j box on trailer? If you have to, trace your circuits all the way along step-by-step on your trailer since you know the truck is good.
My thoughts,
Steve
I did try the jumper cable trick. No luck.
My trailer is a gooseneck so I'm having a problem finding another tow vehicle but that is my next step.
Did the problem go away when you towed that other trailer? If it did NOT, replace the module as was suggested above.
I wasn't present when the girls towed the other trailer. It was a bumper pull with some age on it so I'm not 100% sure it was done properly. (I have a gooseneck)
I have read about the plug and play by Curt that comes with all the adapters. That'll be my last resort.
Okay, do this. Hook up your trailer and check for voltage at the blue lead in the j box connection on the trailer. Nothing you have done so far verifies you have power down you seven pin cord to your trailer. Pulling the break-away does not verify that. If you activate your controller manually, do you have power there. If you have power there, you can go wheel to wheel checking for power until you find your open.
Even when the cause of a problem is obvious, finding what is causing it often is not.
First I want to thank all you guys. Always my go to site when I'm in trouble.
So after all of that I went and purchased one of those Curt 7-Way testers. Plugged it up to truck. And one of the tests requires pressing the brake then hitting the manual override on brake controller. Bingo. Check trailer warning came on.
So the big question now is could it most likely be the wire harness from back to front of truck? Or the controller?
(I already installed a new plug-in on back so it's not the plug itself.)
I don't know how to reconcile this with the initial post the truck works with another trailer, unless it is a random glitch. :O
Steve
I said the same thing to my spouse when she told me it worked with her friends bumper pull.
As I stated in a previous post. I wasn't present at the time of testing.
My guess is the OLD bumper pull test trailer wiring wasn't working as should.?(random glitch)
Thinking I'll install an after market. I read that the 05-07's had issues with the controller.
There's a guy on eBay who will repair them with a lifetime warranty. $100.00
I guess he found a niche just like the FICM repair guy did.
I have the '05 F250 with the factory Trailer Tow Package and I have NEVER had a problem with the Brake Controller - well not since I found out that it doesn't start working until the truck is moving at over 5MPH.
I have the '05 F250 with the factory Trailer Tow Package and I have NEVER had a problem with the Brake Controller - well not since I found out that it doesn't start working until the truck is moving at over 5MPH.
Do you tow often? We use our horse trailer at least 3 times a week.
Again. Even with the tester I purchased the warning gets set off. So I know it's a truck issue. Easier to replace controller than wire harness.
I'll let you know my findings.
My motto - "everything works, until it doesn't". Could be a week, a month, ten years. The failure is always correlated with something that may be totally unrelated, which is why diagnosis is so important.
If medicine were practiced the way RVs are often repaired, many of us would be in very deep doo-doo!
everything fails... some in a short time.. some in a long time..
and things NEVER fix (heal) its self.. it may stop working and begin working again.. but it is still bad.. just not now.
my cassette player/recorder failed 2 months ago.. but worked fine a year ago. Oh, it was 30+ years old...
but a DVD player was d.o.a. out of the box...