So today I got robbed by a customs place, and now I'm going about the rest of this on my own. I bought some Attometer Gauges. A Pyrometer, Boost, and Water Temperature, to go along the A-pillar. They told me they couldn't do the water temp gauge before I sent it to them, because they didn't have the stuff to do it, but they said they could do the pyro and boost. When I got the truck back, they told me they couldn't do the boost either because they didn't know where to install it on the turbo, so now I have two gauges installed and connected to power, but not measuring anything. I'm down to doing the boost by myself, but I don't know where it goes either. I'm not keen to doing water temp, because the attometer website mentioned something about removing the manifold and I'm not mechanically inclined enough to trust myself to do that.

So my question is, does anyone know where a boost gauge connects to a stock Garrett turbo on our trucks? And would it be easy enough for a college student to knock out in a campus parking lot? Or would I be better off getting a diesel mechanic in the area to do it? I work for an auto parts store, so I've got plenty of connections in the area who have offered to help me out, but I just wanted to know if this is something I can do.

 

Look at the heater box under the hood. There is a sensor with three wire connector and hose running to it from the engine. Get a vaccum t to put in that hose to hook your boost gauge tube to. Just connect the dots.
On the water I would exchange the over temp sensor for the auto meter sender. The sensor is at about 10oclock from water pump in front of timing cover. You will have to have the coolant drained for that one.

 

Boost is easy, T into the map line that goes from the intake on the passenger side to the top of firewall on the passenger side. Its a vaccume line to the map which has a plug on it. Water temp probe can go into the water pump on the drivers side or???? I have mine in the water filter head but that's a aftermarket filter.

 

Your to fast for me Aaron!

 

Thanks guys. Seems easy enough. I gotta swap out a thermostat and the upper and lower hoses anyway, so while I'm doing that I can put the water temp in. They were connected to power and the pillar and fed the gauge through the firewall, but they tied it off there. When I get a chance, I'll get to work on those.

 

Sounds dumb, but be SUPER careful with that line/hose/tube that you use for boost.

I accidentally put a kink in mine and my boost gauge doesn't work. Haven't gotten around to fixing it yet though.

 

naaa im SSLLOOWW really....

got both brain cells warmed up tho lol

 

That's one more then I got. lol

 

Alright, I looked under the hood today to get an idea of what I'm dealing with, and it leads me to two more questions.

I found the hose you guys were talking about for boost. Is there a recommendation for which end of the hose to T off? Like at the pipe or at the box?

As for the water temp, I think I found the sensor I'm supposed to switch out. Its on top of the water pump, drivers side, between the compressor and the alternator, right next to the water outlet. It's a small, single wire sensor point. Is that where I'm putting the Water temp? If so, what the best way to run this thing? I obviously don't want the wire to wrap itself around the fan, So I'm trying to decide if I want to run it through the harness conduit or run a separate line.

 

If its the original hose, replace it. I T off at a convenient location to run the boost line across the firewall and into the cab. Doesn't matter where you do it.

 

Will do. Came off nicely on the MAP side, but is pretty fused on the other. I'll probably have to cut it off. Finding a vacuum T that has a threaded top is becoming a little more difficult than I expected. AutoZone, Home Depot, and Lowes didn't have one that fit. I'll try Tractor Supply tomorrow. There isn't a Napa near me, which kinda stinks.

 

I pieces mine together from like 5 components at oreilley

 

do the boost proper.

Put it on the back of the y pipe off the turbo.
there is a little flat spot back there you can tap with a punch, then drill and tap your hole.

YOu'll get the correct boost readings ther ewithout having leaky t-fittings.

 

when changing the thermostat, only use a ford dealer t-stat. auto parts store thermostats usually don't work in our engines.

 

yeah that's what I've got. The thermostat in it is the original thermostat surprisingly enough. It hasn't failed completely, but it's going to soon, it sticks every now and then.

Also what should an average EGT be? Mine typically peaks out at 510ish. Haven't done any highway driving yet though. Just want to k kW what to expect