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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 09:07 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by abowman
What does every one think about going to a .84 turbine housing on the 38r with a compound setup with a s400? So I get enough air with minamal lag?


Anyone have any input on this? weather or not 38r will complement a s400 very good or not?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2016 | 10:10 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by abowman
Anyone have any input on this? weather or not 38r will complement a s400 very good or not?
Regarding compounds, I'd run a single 400 series turbo with that injector setup any day of the week. Your fueling is more than sufficient to lite a 4 series adequately and keep it cool. As a DD it may be a tad bit slow but not irritating. Changing housings and wheels over a stocker, they actually do not lag that bad. Due to displacement, not many run compounds on a 7.3. Some have if they are running incredibly big fuel/ turbines. Bad idea running compounds ... No.

Go strike up a thread over on PSA.. There is a group running big fuel and big air and beat on their DDs, towing pretty hard too. There is good and bad info... And a bit more ego than here :-)
 
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Old Feb 14, 2016 | 02:59 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by nossliw
Regarding compounds, I'd run a single 400 series turbo with that injector setup any day of the week. Your fueling is more than sufficient to lite a 4 series adequately and keep it cool. As a DD it may be a tad bit slow but not irritating. Changing housings and wheels over a stocker, they actually do not lag that bad. Due to displacement, not many run compounds on a 7.3. Some have if they are running incredibly big fuel/ turbines. Bad idea running compounds ... No.

Go strike up a thread over on PSA.. There is a group running big fuel and big air and beat on their DDs, towing pretty hard too. There is good and bad info... And a bit more ego than here :-)

Okay, the 38r seems a little sluggish on light up compared to the stock turbo. I had dp's 150hp aggressive with as much low boost fueling and the stocker lit up really quick. I saw the 30psi of boost with it. But I changed to a hydra with gh tunes when the sticks went in. It's by no means slow on light up but is laggie compared to the old setup.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2016 | 10:36 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by nossliw
Regarding compounds, I'd run a single 400 series turbo with that injector setup any day of the week. Your fueling is more than sufficient to lite a 4 series adequately and keep it cool. As a DD it may be a tad bit slow but not irritating. Changing housings and wheels over a stocker, they actually do not lag that bad. Due to displacement, not many run compounds on a 7.3. Some have if they are running incredibly big fuel/ turbines. Bad idea running compounds ... No.

Go strike up a thread over on PSA.. There is a group running big fuel and big air and beat on their DDs, towing pretty hard too. There is good and bad info... And a bit more ego than here :-)
Could you go a little more in depth as to why running compounds on a 7.3 is a bad idea? Thank you on advance.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2016 | 01:35 PM
  #35  
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A window for crank inspection. You'll need it with PMRs and you'll get one real quick. Usually to run compounds the bottom end needs to be built and by built I don't mean a set of factory forged rods either
 
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Old Feb 15, 2016 | 03:31 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by JOHN2001
A window for crank inspection. You'll need it with PMRs and you'll get one real quick. Usually to run compounds the bottom end needs to be built and by built I don't mean a set of factory forged rods either

Ic that's good to know, I sent an email to Matt at gh to see if I can run water/methanol with the pmr bottom end with current tuning, or if changes need to be made, or if I should not run it at all?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2016 | 08:18 AM
  #37  
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I'm curious what he has to say also. When money permits I always opt to solve the problem and not "cover it up" so to speak
 
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Old Feb 24, 2016 | 06:05 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by JOHN2001
I'm curious what he has to say also. When money permits I always opt to solve the problem and not "cover it up" so to speak

Still waiting for new tune and reply on water/ meth injection. But. I read somewhere that the pistons shouldn't melt untell 2100* then I read 850*? now I would not ever try the 2100* But what is the temp that something will happen. I know a couple buddies run 1500* on there Cummins and don't worried to much. I don't know the diff or if there is one that ables them to run those temps and be OK. Last year I ran the same hills around 14-1500* for 5 or so miles before injectors or anything just had a nasty dirty tune. Anyone melt there motor? What temp?
 
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Old Feb 25, 2016 | 06:22 AM
  #39  
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I can't tell you for sure on a 7.3 but your Cummins buddies are right. A Cummins can run hotter, longer.
You're worried about heat soak more than just a quick burst. Sorry I'm not more help
 
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Old Feb 25, 2016 | 11:15 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by JOHN2001
I can't tell you for sure on a 7.3 but your Cummins buddies are right. A Cummins can run hotter, longer.
You're worried about heat soak more than just a quick burst. Sorry I'm not more help
How long is a short burst say a couple min or sec. Got Matt's email wrong, but the guy I talked to at gh said he's a fan for doing what I'm trying to do with water methanol. But ask Matt he will know for sure. So also no tuning changes as of now. If the do anything it will be like pulling my foot out of the throttle.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2016 | 03:09 PM
  #41  
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No first hand experience here, but I've read of water injection washing the oil off of the cylinder walls and prematurely wearing out the rings/bore. I read somewhere about someone (could I be anymore vague?) using a water based tool cutting solution to combat ring wear. I read it on the internet, so it must be true!
 
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Old Feb 25, 2016 | 05:33 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by The Brad
No first hand experience here, but I've read of water injection washing the oil off of the cylinder walls and prematurely wearing out the rings/bore. I read somewhere about someone (could I be anymore vague?) using a water based tool cutting solution to combat ring wear. I read it on the internet, so it must be true!
Huh? I could see that happening? Matt wrote me back said throw a double bladed whicked wheel in the 38r and run a water methanol kit. He said he's not a fan of methanol but a small amount it OK. I told him 10% and pretty much said go for it. I read somewhere that cylinder pressures will only go up after 35% methanol pure water is a go.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2016 | 06:05 PM
  #43  
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I'm in the same boat as you. No matter what I do, I'm under the turbo at 2k rpm and it's a hot smokey mess. I've asked a couple of vendors about swapping out my 12 blade WW2 for a 6/6 blade and both agree that I'll see little difference. At this point, I'm ready to sell the 38r and go with either an S364.5, or a BASB.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2016 | 07:21 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by The Brad
I'm in the same boat as you. No matter what I do, I'm under the turbo at 2k rpm and it's a hot smokey mess. I've asked a couple of vendors about swapping out my 12 blade WW2 for a 6/6 blade and both agree that I'll see little difference. At this point, I'm ready to sell the 38r and go with either an S364.5, or a BASB.
Well if you do and it solves your problem or helps enough to spend the money let me know. I would just like to see 30-35psi while in the same situation that I'm at 20psi. Of course that would put at 40-45 max boost which with no studs would be bad.
 
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Old Feb 26, 2016 | 07:09 AM
  #45  
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Windshield washer fluid is popular for water/meth injection. I think you're at the wrong site honestly for your problem. FTE is more about fixing stockish trucks and upgrading moderately. Once you hit the point you're at there's very few with knowledge.

I've used this before to describe heat soak:
Light a candle and wave your hand over the flame... Doesn't hurt at all right...
Same thing but slow your hand down or stop above the flame..... Ouch.

Usually bursts down the track are not going to hurt, I've heard of guys hitting 2200 on the track. That's completely different than hitting 2200 (using a random number) pulling a 10 mile long 7% grade. Something in scenario #2 will give and break long before scenario #1

When money permits I'd be doing a turbo swap, what turbo I'm not sure. When I had my 7.3 still I was going to go 250/200s and an H2E T4 setup. Then I realized I was still going to be disappointed after all the money spent with minimal gains
 
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