Thank you, gentlemen! Lots to sift through here, but I'm very grateful for all of the great insights and feedback.

As I've said here earlier, this particular truck is literally "brand new", with virtually NO miles on it yet, so the last thing that I want to see happen, is some inexperienced or ill-trained monkey who knows as little as I do (or less!), hacking away on things *****-nilly under there! That's a recurring nightmare for me.

However, if its common practice to get a print-out of some sort from most alignment shops, including the OEM settings (prior to lift) and the post-lift (re-alignment) settings, then that's great information to have. I will start refining my search for the right shop and go from there.

From the various responses provided here, it sounds like tow-in will not be a serious concern, but it also sounds like there's a general agreement that "castor" may in-fact need to be adjusted, while others feel maybe not?

So, I guess my only remaining concern would be whether the typical alignment shop will actually have the required "shims" in-stock to adjust the castor for this particular model at the time of alignment? Or whether they'll need to order them? Its hard for me to imagine that they'll order them, if they're saying beforehand that don't even think the castor will need to be adjusted?!@#%&? Maybe they're in agreement with the group here that feels a 2" lift is too insignificant to effect the castor in any meaningful way? Hard to say. But whatever the case may be, I think I need to start visiting some more alignment shops!

So thanks for all the great feedback guys! I'll start visiting some more shops and I'll make sure to post future progress and/or discoveries here, as I encounter them.

 

Yes, caster/castor is the biggest concern. Toe most likely wont change. Like pprojectnitemare mentioned above, drag link adj to get steering wheel straight will most likely be needed too.

Also and mentioned earlier, most chain/franchise shops might be challenged by altered suspensions setups. They are trained to read stock/factory specs and get it back to that. That includes ride height. When you raise (or lower) the height it confuses some shops.

Look for some 4x4 specialty shops. Ones that are familiar with lifts and alignments. If they don't do alignments there, odds are they know where to go.

Be prepared to pay a few bucks more that Meineke or Brake Check, etc..... They are usually around $59.99 to 79.99 range here in Houston. A shop that can do "non standard" stuff is usually a little more.

There's a place here that I'd use called Axle and Wheel Alignment. They do everything from slammed street rods to lifted trucks. Their alignments start at $124.99. But they can do it right. They did my lifted 2004 4x4 F250 (leaf spring front end) and it drove great afterwards.

Also, chain/franchise stores probably won't stock custom castor bushings. Specialty / 4x4 shops might. Double check with them though.

 

Anytime ride height is altered it will change castor angle. Whether it's still in spec or not is why it needs aligned. No shims are needed, it's a whole bushing the surrounds the upper ball joint in the knuckle. The hole in the bushing is off center in different amounts. Some shops stock that stuff some don't. There are adjustable bushings in the aftermarket but some shops don't know how to use them. Any shop that has a clue will see you need to adjust the castor. If it is still in spec you are technically OK but my opinion you want to keep it as far back as possible

 

I have a 2015 f250 and did 2" front level blocks/1" rear. I bought the adjustable track bar and took it in for alignment and all was fine. have over 25,000 miles on with no problems. 325/60/20 tires