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08 Navigator having problems at acceleration

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Old Feb 5, 2016 | 07:49 AM
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08 Navigator having problems at acceleration

My navigator started acting really bad on Monday after putting a full tank of gas. It started shaking really bad and I couldn't accelerate without it making a really bad noise, I am attaching an audio. So when I accelerate it makes that noise you could hear in the audio along with thia clack clack sound as if it back fires but it sounds like metal,can't really explain you could actually hear it in the audio. The codes read p0300, p0304, p0305, p0345 and p0349. We changed coil 4 and 5 and still the same, we had a complete tune up on Dec 24, 2015 and changed the camshaft position sensor bank 1 at that time. Well since Monday this truck instead of getting better has become worse. I had taken it to the dealer before to get 3 coils replaced and was charged $1200, I don't want to have to pay that much money anymore if I could fix it myself. I read in this forum how it can be many different things instead of the coils themselves or sensors. Could anyone tell me what you think about the sound, what does it sound like?
 
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by omcarroll
My navigator started acting really bad on Monday after putting a full tank of gas. It started shaking really bad and I couldn't accelerate without it making a really bad noise, I am attaching an audio. So when I accelerate it makes that noise you could hear in the audio along with thia clack clack sound as if it back fires but it sounds like metal,can't really explain you could actually hear it in the audio. The codes read p0300, p0304, p0305, p0345 and p0349. We changed coil 4 and 5 and still the same, we had a complete tune up on Dec 24, 2015 and changed the camshaft position sensor bank 1 at that time. Well since Monday this truck instead of getting better has become worse. I had taken it to the dealer before to get 3 coils replaced and was charged $1200, I don't want to have to pay that much money anymore if I could fix it myself. I read in this forum how it can be many different things instead of the coils themselves or sensors. Could anyone tell me what you think about the sound, what does it sound like?

Shoot. Your truck is a generation ahead of what I used to own, but since no one has attempted to help you, I will try.

Your sound clip didn't load for me so I gonna diagnose by codes.

4 and 5 are misfiring, both cam position sensors are faulting

Check the EGR valve for blockage.

Check that all the wires on you're coils, injectors, computer, etc are all tight and connected and not damaged.

There are 2 cam position sensors. Make sure both were changed.

Check the oxygen sensor in the tail pipe.

Test your injectors.

Make sure all coils are properly seated and bolted down.


Again! With the engine off, make sure every wire on the engine is properly connected!
 
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Old Feb 10, 2016 | 08:54 PM
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Replaced both cam sensors still the same, injector number five was defective so replaced it and also replaced the plug from cylinder number five as it looked really black with a burned oil smell. After replacing the plug, removed it again to check it one last time and it was beginning to burn again. My neighbor that knows a lot about mechanics told me to remove the valve cover and see if it's clean or not and if it's cleaned to check the manifold because it sounds like it has an intake manifold leak but if it's dirty he says it needs to be cleaned out and it's best to just get another engine. What do you think?
 
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by omcarroll
Replaced both cam sensors still the same, injector number five was defective so replaced it and also replaced the plug from cylinder number five as it looked really black with a burned oil smell. After replacing the plug, removed it again to check it one last time and it was beginning to burn again. My neighbor that knows a lot about mechanics told me to remove the valve cover and see if it's clean or not and if it's cleaned to check the manifold because it sounds like it has an intake manifold leak but if it's dirty he says it needs to be cleaned out and it's best to just get another engine. What do you think?
The 5.4L is over 20 years old. These motors just getting to a point where they have to be replaced (unless of course you beat it to death) is rare occurrence. But since you say the plug was black and oily, there might be some underlying issues. Bad piston rings for example, would cause that, and that requires pulling the engine to fix those.

If you are driving this truck and you wanna save $5k by keeping your engine that is probably in fairly great shape aside from $50 worth of parts, then you should probably park the truck and get ready to open the engine up. One way or another though, your buddy is right, the engine needs to be opened and examined from the inside.

Best of luck

Before you do that though, I think your buddy is on to something. Go on rockauto and get you a intake manifold gasket and put that on before you tear into the engine. Maybe the leak is external.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2016 | 12:42 PM
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Thank you.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2016 | 08:36 AM
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One more thing to open the engine and examine it to find the problem, how much more or less should they charge?
 
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Old Mar 3, 2016 | 07:37 PM
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A lot more than you think.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 06:26 AM
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That wasn't an answer.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 11:52 AM
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I spent 2 grand getting mine fixed which involved 2 trips to the dealer. My personal mechanic wouldn't touch it. I have read a lot of stories of people spending up to 5 grand chasing these engine issue ghosts.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 01:09 PM
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Just found out it had engine sludge.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 02:40 AM
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Just being noise and looking around 3 gen side of things from 1st gen owner. Anyways, did you use Seafoam (any type of cleaning agent) to help with sludge cleaning or did the stealership do it?

My kids call it "steal your ship". Since any time I have used a dealership didn't see the truck for almost a week.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 07:11 AM
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Yes I did use Seafoam as recommended by someone at Autozone but that didn't help the sludge. The vehicle has this really loud knocking by the engine and when codes are checked it keeps saying cylinder #5 but we have checked all of that and when you turn the engine on it sounds horrible.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 08:13 AM
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Did they replace the coil pack? Also did they say what caused the engine sludge?
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 08:34 AM
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Yes they changed coil 5,6,7 and 4 which were the codes given but now all it keeps saying is coil 5, so replaced coil 5, the spark plug and the injector and still the same. My concern is I have read that sometimes they charge all this money and it doesn't resolve the problem. I am wondering if that really is the problem. Does anyone have any suggestions? Can anyone hear the audio so you can see what I am talking about with the noise? If you can't open it let me know so I can try to load with to different file:
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 01:48 PM
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Exclamation 2008 FORD knocking, crank no start, stutter, the list is miles long

I know EXACTLY what is wrong with your Expedition. I have been going through your exact same shoes, but after hours/hours/hours of youtube, ford forums, blogs, experts, paying the dealership, paying towing companies, and paying and paying, and did i mention paying?> for new tools, parts, mechanic help, expert help, I have torn my engine down and have a wealth of hard fought and hard earned experience now with this engine. so if you've not yet fixed yours, tell me and i'll post video, pictures, and a write up if you think it will help you.


bottom line is this, be prepared to purchase special tools (TRUST me I know which ones you can live with out, and which are truly a NO SUBSTITUTION rule) and approximately 600-1000 in parts. Honestly I made some costly mistakes and i'm still not completely buttoned back up, but i can help you not make the same. and i can tell you confidently what you're facing with this beast.

i love my expo, but i'm not a mechanic. i did not and have not ever done more than change oil or plugs before i got this truck. but now it is my sole transportation for my family and it's all we can afford and we can't replace it, and it has no warranty. The dealership wanted 3500 to open it and fix the phasers, but now that i've opened it myself, i can tell you that to truly fix it, and fix the items you SHOULD replace while you are there, would have been stratospheric in cost at a dealership. easily eclipsing well over 6,000.
 
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