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Anyone know any tips or tricks to separating pieces that are "Platic Welded" together? I found using a a big drill bit and drilling a little bit works but was wondering if there was a correct way of going about this? My biggest concern is the reassembly process to be honest because with my drill technique I have a like 20/80 odds at not drilling it to the point where I can get a small screw in there to pull the two pieces of plastic together without the point popping through to the other side. If I have to hot glue/epoxy the pieces back together that's not a problem but screws tend to hold better so would much rather use them then glue/epoxy. Any information on these things would be greatly appreciated!! These are my practice door panels since no one makes rear door panels for crew cabs in the color black I have to paint my own so I'm experimenting with some junker panels first to see what gets the best finish/durablily.
I circled the "Plastic Welds" I'm referring to.
This is a panel I removed with my big drill bit technique. As you can see it leaves a big crater in the main door panel as that sees the most plastic removal simply because of the shape/nature of a drill bit.
The two holes my fingers are pointing to are normally where the plastic welds/rivets fail. They are hollow and just wide enough to accept a normal flanged/washer trim screw and a larger washer (like the bigger one on the left). You will have to pull back or cut off the insulation/padding from the inside of the doors to see these upper two holes.
The second picture shows how deep the trim screws can thread into those studs to get a good bite.
Were you just repairing or disassembling? I see that's the "Foamy" piece of door trim your working on that the power window switch would go, I did notice they have a good amount of space to run a screw into but the other panel pieces do not such as that bottom pocket thing like I did in my pictures or the piece of trim right about the "Foamy" sponge like piece of door trim. Those other pieces have no room to run a screw into except in maybe one or two different places on the trim pieces.
I would file/80grit roloc those welds till it pops loose
I tried something similar with a dremel but I found that 50% of the time the welds are infused not just at the top but throughout where the one piece slides inside the other. I really doubt there is a right way of going about this as they aren't really pieces designed to be removed.
Were you just repairing or disassembling? I see that's the "Foamy" piece of door trim your working on that the power window switch would go, I did notice they have a good amount of space to run a screw into but the other panel pieces do not such as that bottom pocket thing like I did in my pictures or the piece of trim right about the "Foamy" sponge like piece of door trim. Those other pieces have no room to run a screw into except in maybe one or two different places on the trim pieces.
Here's a way.
Where you can use the screws/washers, do.
If you want to for sure put them back together, it'll cost a bit.
Look into a 3M product that goes by 8115. It's a panel bonding adhesive but works terrifically well with many materials, and is stronger than steel. you'll need a special applicator gun for the cartridges and it's pricy, but I can assure you there's nothing like it.
Rough up the area with 80 grit, mask of the surrounding. you can use a nozzlle or just squirt it onto a board to paddle mix and apply it. make sure the clean the area with a good solvent and use an adhesion promoter ( Bulldog, 3M Adhesion Promoter Towelletes) before applying the adhesive. It'll take an hour to fully hold but it's CRAZY strong.
Where you can use the screws/washers, do.
If you want to for sure put them back together, it'll cost a bit.
Look into a 3M product that goes by 8115. It's a panel bonding adhesive but works terrifically well with many materials, and is stronger than steel. you'll need a special applicator gun for the cartridges and it's pricy, but I can assure you there's nothing like it.
Rough up the area with 80 grit, mask of the surrounding. you can use a nozzlle or just squirt it onto a board to paddle mix and apply it. make sure the clean the area with a good solvent and use an adhesion promoter ( Bulldog, 3M Adhesion Promoter Towelletes) before applying the adhesive. It'll take an hour to fully hold but it's CRAZY strong.
Jeez, sounds like some knarly stuff!! I'll have to look into it! Thanks for the info! Maybe I can convince the boss man the shop really needs some and he can foot that bill
Jeez, sounds like some knarly stuff!! I'll have to look into it! Thanks for the info! Maybe I can convince the boss man the shop really needs some and he can foot that bill
Are you in a body shop?
8115 isnt by far a new product, It's in the repair procedure for almost every damn panel on the new aluminum body F150's, and has been commonplace for roof panel and door skin replacement for most domestic cars/trucks.
The owner of our shop told us the demo the 3M rep gave when this stuff came out - he'd ask for two of your frame machine hooks (the ones you can use to straighten frames/unibodies etc.) wipe them off and squirt some of this stuff on one and sandwhich them. No clamps, no heat, just glue and set off to the side. He'd go on for about 30 minutes about whatever else he had to offer then come back to the hooks and asked the technician to chain the hooks up to the frame machine, and took bets on what would break first, your hooks, or his adhesive.
The adhesive always won.
You can use it for plastic repair, rebuilding plastic tabs on bumper covers, all kinds of stuff. It's sandable when cured and is fully paintable.
Are you in a body shop?
8115 isnt by far a new product, It's in the repair procedure for almost every damn panel on the new aluminum body F150's, and has been commonplace for roof panel and door skin replacement for most domestic cars/trucks.
The owner of our shop told us the demo the 3M rep gave when this stuff came out - he'd ask for two of your frame machine hooks (the ones you can use to straighten frames/unibodies etc.) wipe them off and squirt some of this stuff on one and sandwhich them. No clamps, no heat, just glue and set off to the side. He'd go on for about 30 minutes about whatever else he had to offer then come back to the hooks and asked the technician to chain the hooks up to the frame machine, and took bets on what would break first, your hooks, or his adhesive.
The adhesive always won.
You can use it for plastic repair, rebuilding plastic tabs on bumper covers, all kinds of stuff. It's sandable when cured and is fully paintable.
Nah just a regular mom and pop auto garage. Jesus!! That really is some crazy stuff! Definitely going to convince the boss to get some. Hopefully they have youtube videos of it in action like that cause he'd lose his mind if I showed him that. He'd probably buy a couple gallons just because!
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