Need help !!!!
#1
#2
Just get the bolt specs and go to the hardware store. Unless it has some kind of special shoulder; you're good.
It's probably metric, so find out the thread diameter and pitch and length and go to the hardware store. If it says 8.8 it's a grade 5 bolt, it it says 10.9 it's a grade 8.
No big deal.
(Also good places are: McMaster Carr, Fastenal, Grainger, or Wurth). Though these are expensive.
It's probably metric, so find out the thread diameter and pitch and length and go to the hardware store. If it says 8.8 it's a grade 5 bolt, it it says 10.9 it's a grade 8.
No big deal.
(Also good places are: McMaster Carr, Fastenal, Grainger, or Wurth). Though these are expensive.
#4
Considering that motor was in wide production as a 2V design someone somewhere has them for a fair price. It would be advisable to know the bolt spec's as generic hardware not of automotive spec's might not be wise to use internally for your engine.
Also user NumberDummy might be able to provide the correct and/or any superseded numbers used to order new Ford parts.
HTH---please let us know what you discover---and best of luck with this!
#5
when I was assembling my motor I believe I had one bad or missing cam bolt as well. I dug threw my bolt collection and found one from some car I parted out long ago.
Like mentioned there isn't much special about them, take a bolt with you to the hardware store and find a match. If I recall correctly I think they are metric 6x1.25mm, but don't quote me on that. Check a bolt you do have to be sure.
#6
Match the threads, length, head type (if necessary), and tensile strength (grade 5 or 8, etc).
You'll be fine.
#7
Not true. It's just a bolt. As I said above: unless it has some special shoulder- it's just a bolt. (Technically speaking- it's a screw. It becomes a bolt once it is threaded into a nut.... Let's just call it a threaded fastener, lol).
Match the threads, length, head type (if necessary), and tensile strength (grade 5 or 8, etc).
You'll be fine.
Match the threads, length, head type (if necessary), and tensile strength (grade 5 or 8, etc).
You'll be fine.
I'd damn sure hate knowing any lame advice I'd offered caused engine damage because "it'll be fine........." was the best I could offer. That's just me though.........
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#8
Sure---let's just throw any old bolt, screw, fastener or whatever its called---its not our engine so who gives a flip right, technically speaking? Handing out "advice" that's unsubstantiated or guesswork isn't the least bit helpful. By this same "logic" we can use hardware store bolts for main bearing caps and connecting rods too.
I'd damn sure hate knowing any lame advice I'd offered caused engine damage because "it'll be fine........." was the best I could offer. That's just me though.........
I'd damn sure hate knowing any lame advice I'd offered caused engine damage because "it'll be fine........." was the best I could offer. That's just me though.........
So yes, the advice I gave above (twice) is perfectly acceptable. Hardware store bolts are perfectly acceptable if the specifications match.
Now quit following me around this forum to harass me. You don't even have a V10. It's obvious why you are here.
#9
What's a "cam main bolt" ?
If it's the sprocket bolt, I'm willing to bet it's the same as a 4.6L or 5.4L:
$22+ a piece - holy crap - both 10mm and 12mm available, not sure what the difference is.
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That bolt head doesn't look like something you'd find in a hardware store
If it's the sprocket bolt, I'm willing to bet it's the same as a 4.6L or 5.4L:
$22+ a piece - holy crap - both 10mm and 12mm available, not sure what the difference is.
ARP Cam Bolts 256-1001 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
ARP Cam Bolts 256-1002 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
That bolt head doesn't look like something you'd find in a hardware store
#11
#12
Yes hilarious… JWA you're a real "smart feller"
The head is only used to apply the torque. That 12 point head is the choice of the fastener maker.
It could just as well be an Allen head (socket head cap screw), or six point, or Torx, square head, or even a Phillips drive.
So, again, you're incorrect JWA. But thanks for the harassment. Again.
The head is only used to apply the torque. That 12 point head is the choice of the fastener maker.
It could just as well be an Allen head (socket head cap screw), or six point, or Torx, square head, or even a Phillips drive.
So, again, you're incorrect JWA. But thanks for the harassment. Again.
#13
#14
And yes a washer would accomplish that just fine, as long as the washer is proper specifications. Also there are many different types of fasteners (and manufacturers) out there to choose from. A large head with large integrated washer won't be difficult to find.
Seeing the picture though; that shoulder on the fastener might serve a vital purpose (as I mentioned in my very first post). TOPSCRT, it's been 4 days since you made this thread. What did you do?
#15
What's a "cam main bolt" ?
If it's the sprocket bolt, I'm willing to bet it's the same as a 4.6L or 5.4L:
$22+ a piece - holy crap - both 10mm and 12mm available, not sure what the difference is.
ARP Cam Bolts 256-1001 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
ARP Cam Bolts 256-1002 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
That bolt head doesn't look like something you'd find in a hardware store
If it's the sprocket bolt, I'm willing to bet it's the same as a 4.6L or 5.4L:
$22+ a piece - holy crap - both 10mm and 12mm available, not sure what the difference is.
ARP Cam Bolts 256-1001 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
ARP Cam Bolts 256-1002 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
That bolt head doesn't look like something you'd find in a hardware store
This is true,i t depends what the OP means by Main bolt. If he is talking about the sprocket bolts then yes I would go with the arp or ford one if they can be found. I assumed by the wording he was talking about the cam cap bolts.
Yes a hardware store bolt could be used for the sprocket as well but it would have to be a grade 8 or more (most likely a socket head cap screw of grade 10) but finding one of the right thread pitch at a hardware store may be tough. Then also like mentioned a washer of the right size would have to be sourced and I would for sure use loctite with it as it wouldn't have the amount of friction on the sprocket to keep it in place because of the washer.
On the note of hardware store fasteners. I would not even bat an eye to assemble an entire engine on hardware store fasteners like 'Im50fast' mentions. Even bolts that use stretch to set torque I would use a hardware store fastener in place of as long as I knew the torque value. In fact I personally prefer an actual torque value instead of degree of stretch. The first thing most performance shops do with an engine when they build it is get rid of the rubber band stretch bolts and replace them with positive torque value fasteners.
Just like the 6.0 "fix"
As long as you understand the fasteners particular job you can find and replace it a fastener from anywhere so long as it meets (or surpasses) the same specs.