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Hi so i am having issues with one of my fords. its a 2004 f250 with 6.0 and i have gone though 3 alts this year. It all has started this winter it is a plow truck and i just put new battery's in it yesterday. the 1st 2 alts were just out the box stock alts then i put a dc power alt on. and it lasted a lot longer like 2 months. but it failed me today too now. I have checked the connections and they are clean and tight the pig tail on the alt is good. i Have .3 ohms on the charge wire back to the battery. so i know thats not damaged. But for some reason it keeps poping the voltage reguralter in the alt. i have 2 other 6.0 in the same years same set with plows and they have had no issues at all. i called the ford dealer in town and that was not helpfully at all lol. but has any one else ran it to this befor??? any help would be great as its snowing like crazy right now lol.
the components are not heavy duty even though the case and some other parts used in the construction lay claim to be heavy duty.... seems most don't understand that point.
Unfortunately, at your cost. Plowing is tough on equipment, you all ready know that.
Clean all the grounding points as well, use a charger at the end of the day or you'll be buying a new FICM next. Maybe a better option may be a local company rebuilding the alternators? Eventually they overheat.... may be the issues for yours as well, to high a demand.
Did you buy from FICMrepair.com or direct from DCPower?
Try an internally cooled (fan) unit... mine has internal fans inside the case, both front and back.
I bought right from DC power I cleaned all grounds and have added a extra to the battery all ready I just don't understand why this truck has issues when my other don't they are the same trucks same set ups I even have a v10 with the same plow set up with one battery and it don't have issues I have a issue some where I just don't know what it is
I haven't yet I plan on it but need to get though this snow lol. I just went up and got a new one from car quest but I'm sure it will go out but at lest I have the truck working lol. Hope fully it get me though the night . But I still need to find out why I keep burning them up on this unit
I know that you said you checked the grounds but here is a thought... if you are testing the grounds with an ohmmeter that really won't show you much unless something is really bad... in order to really test the grounds you need to have current flowing.. a lot of times high resistance connections don't rear their heads until put under load. That being said you might try adding a grounding strap directly from the battery to the alternator... if you have a bad grounding path from the alt to the battery then you might be burning the alt up because it is having trouble providing the battery sufficient charging power. Just my 2 cents...
Ed would be my first choice. In fact if he cant help you out with an alternator problem its probly not fixable.
WatsonR; would you buy another one of these LEECE NEVILLE's? (i've never heard of them)
The Leece - Neville alternator is internally cooled and one of the best made in my opinion, some extra features built into the charging circuit.... I'd buy it again, but probably won't need to, it should last a good while!
I have a ground off the alt mount to the battery didnt help lol
Clean the grounding points at drivers side frame for that battery. Then the grounding location on the passenger body for that battery and the body ground at the back drivers side and the negative ground passenger side near the harmonic balancer. Clean them to bare metal.
That should raise charging voltage to around 14v. I'd add a positive cable from alternator positive post to passenger positive as well.
I've been running a Leece Neville 230 amp for three years too. So does my brother. In addition to the tips above ground strap from drivers side farmer negative to battery, run a strap to engine block. You might be wise to ohm grounds from batteries to frame as well. It only takes one corroded wire to cause the extra load on the alternator. What are voltages at alt lug, each battery, cigar lighter?
Well I ran the truck for two days strit plowing snow never shut if off and had no issues plowed in the shop today and checked the battery's and found they were fully charged and the alt it still going.. sent a email to DC to see if they can fix my unit and till me what happened to it. Sorry I didn't get back sooner but was out moving snow. I want to say thank you fornthe help guys but till I see what failed with my alt I don't know what more I can do. I going to be runing this truck hard to see what happens with it but for the time everthing is working as it should I have rechecked my wiring and found no issues. The only thing I have changed is battery's I had one that was junk the other wasn't bad but didn't have the CCA it was rated at so replaced both. I guess the one junk battery could have been putting to much load on the changing system with running the plow aswell. But time will till me if she's fixed or not. Agine thanks for all the help
The Leece - Neville alternator is internally cooled and one of the best made in my opinion, some extra features built into the charging circuit.... I'd buy it again, but probably won't need to, it should last a good while!
This is exactly what I was going to suggest. I have one on my 6.0 and neither of my trucks will ever have a parts store alternator on it again. You have to upgrade the cables and ground the alternator, but it works so well it's not even funny.
I also run a Leece Neville 230 amp. The part number is AVI160T2002-2. Several of the popular diesel parts suppliers are selling them for about 350.00 outright. I have also put them on 3 friends trucks, 2 of which had DC Power alts on them that did not work as well as expected. I believe the Leece Neville is as bullet proof an alternator as you can get. I had a 91 Peterbuilt with a Leece Neville that had over a million and a quarter miles on the original alt.
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