Previously, I've had another company attach stuff to two of the upfitter switches. I have two more devices that I want to connect, and am considering trying it myself. Problem is I don't fully understand what all is involved. I am hoping someone can give me a step by step instruction, as I have watched the videos and they aren't really clear. It seems like the upfitters are in two pieces... the switch itself, and then some wiring mess that goes through the firewall that isn't connected to anything. That is where I am getting confused.

First, I want to run one of the wires through the dash to the top of and into the tray. One of the wires I have for my GPS goes there already. Is that difficult snaking the wire through? The GPS wire comes out between the top dash piece and the vent somehow. I want the wire for the observation camera monitor to follow the same patch. Not sure how to begin tracing that.

Next, another wire is for the TST TPMS. That will remain down low... just need to figure out how to connect it to the upfitter. Guess I could start with that one for practice.

Thanks.

 

I can't help you with the switches but would like to see a picture of the routing for the GPS wire. I am wanting to do the same. I'm curious: why would you connect a GPS or TPMS monitor to an upfitter switch? Why not hard wire them to the fuse panel?

 

If you can locate the wires, it is truly as simple as connecting your device(s) to the wires. The upfitter switches are relay protected and fused. There are different gauges for the different switch wires, so just don't overload the switch you want to use. The hardest part is locating the loose wires. I have two sets of lights connected to my upfitter's smallest gauge wires. The lights came with their own relays, so all I'm using the upfitter switches for is the relay trigger wire. Power and ground are provided with direct connections to the battery.

 

I agree. The upfitters should be used for what they are -- switches. The devices you mentioned probably should have constant power. I recommend something like this:

 

The TPMS and camera monitor don't need to be powered full time. That's the reason I'm making them switchable. The monitor and the TPMS would come on every time I started the truck if I didn't.

 

Normally, TPMS needs power at all times, and backup cameras typically use the reverse light signal to turn them on/off. Just depends on your preference I guess.

 

I'm not towing all the time, though. I want the option of turning them off. The observation camera is wireless and powered when the running lights are on. It's not just for backing up.

 

Okay -- I see what you are doing now. So, just use the blunt-cut wires from your upfitter switch as the power lead for each device and you are set. My truck is a 2007, and I found a Ford publication on the location and Amp rating for each switch (wire). See if you can find the same for your year. Running wires in from the engine bay is simple. Just locate any bundle that passes through the fire wall and use the same grommet to pass your wires in. On my truck, there are also rubber plugs under the floor that let you pull wires in -- just add a dab of silicone around the inside/outside of hole you create when pushing the wires through.

 

Thanks. That's the part I'm not clear on... the wires aren't already connected at the fuse block? I need to make that connection also? Guess I'm assuming that connection is made, the wires run inside, and I just need to tie them to my device wiring to the switch. That's where it is fuzzy for me.

 

On mine, I didn't need to touch the switches. My wire stubs were located near the switches. I think on some models, there are wires in the engine bay that are connected to the switches or just available to provide the pass-through you need.

 

I used something similar in my F150. In the F250, fuse 10 in the passenger footwell fuse box is user-accessible switched power. That is what I will use for my GPS. My issue is how to run the power wire to the tray in the dash.

Personally, if I wanted the GPS turned off, I would just use the switch on the GPS unit - not sacrifice an upfitter switch.

 

This is the Ford document for the 2011 upfitter:


https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...ml/Q117-R2.pdf

 

I've got nothing else to do with them... no exterior lighting, extra anything, so why not?

dscabra... thanks for that... So I am assuming I attach the power lead from the device to one of the blunt cut wires for the specific switch, then attach the other lead to a ground and I'm done?

 

I think you're getting the pass through wires and upfitter wires confused.


The upfitter wires are tied up around the parking brake and are already connected to the relays an switches. These 4 wires will have power when you turn the associated switch on. The wire colors and amp ratings are all clearly written out in the owners manual.


The pass through wires are 4 (or 5, I forget) wires that are routed through the firewall in the main harness that do nothing more than have a sealed cap on each end. These are for if you need to run a wire outside the cab, you already have a few wires run through the firewall, you just need to connect to both sides. The inside of the pass through wires is tied up in the bundle of customer access wiring to the left of the brake pedal. The outside is tied up behind the power distribution box near the left hood hinge.


For what you are trying to do, you will not need the pass through wires. All you need to do is connect your power wire from the TST hardwire harness to the wire from the upfitter of your choosing. Same with your camera wire, connect to another upfitter wire. Connect ground wires to a ground under the dash and you're set. Flip switches and power your stuff up!

 

Sounds easy enough, but for me, it isn't. First strike is removing the panel under the steering column. Does it just snap in? I'm not seeing any screws, and don't want to get yanking on it for fear of snapping something off.