I have a 91 Ford Explorer 4.0 liter. It is blowing the 30 amp EEC RELAY in the power distribution box. If I put a new one in, it blows a few seconds after turning the key to the ON position. Please help me to diagnos this problem. I was going to replace the EEC relay...but I can't find it. In the book it give the code E97B-14A0984-AA.

 

Hey Dude,

Well, I am not familiar with the location of your relays, but they may be located similar to mine on a Bronco II. So, I'll give it a shot.

On the left front fender well area, inside the engine compartment, I have three (3), relays, and Fusable links, located under a black plastic cover, that has a black plastic expansion pin on top to secure the cover.

Pulling up on the pin, and removing the cover, exposes the three (3) relays, Fusable Links, and several other items.

The three (3), relays "I" have mounted on the fender well are, the A/C Relay, Fuel Pump Relay, and EEC Relay.

All are small rectangular shaped plastic boxes, about 1"square x 2" long, with snap on wiring connectors, plugged into the bottom of them. They are colored, 1. black/gray, 2. yellow, 3. yellow. Colors may be different in your case??

They are mounted to the vehicle by, a thin piece of straight and/or "U" bent metal strap, with 1 machine screw, per relay.

That code you have, is "not" a code, it is the atual part number of the relay itself. That part number will be hot branded, (just like cattle branding), into the plastic housing of the relay.

It is very important that you match that number, when purchasing the replacement relay, as the replacement will no doubt be an aftermarket relay, unless you plan on going to $$FORD$$, for the relay.

It is not uncommon for the SalesPerson at most Auto Parts Stores, to try and sell you any old relay they have in stock.

To most of them, a relay is a relay, and they pretty much all do the same thing, and have very similar pin patterns.

So, that part number is important. I recommend having the relay in your hand, to also match the pin pattern. There are, four (4), and five (5) pin relays, either one will fit, but only the one that will match the wiring plug connector_will work properly.

All relay wiring plug conectors normally have five (5) contact slots, but sometimes, one slot is a dummy slot, making it a 4 pin plug.

FORD has a plan...and it involves relocating the contacts in the wiring plug connector, so that an aftermarket 4 pin relay won't match their 4 contact plug connectors .


Most times a 5 pin relay has to be used in order to make contact with the 4 contacts of the wiring plug connector.

When disconnecting the wiring plug from the relay, pay real close attention to the "Condition", and "Location" on the contacts in both, the relay and the wiring plug connector.

The pin configuration of the new relay, must match the location on the contacts in the>>"wiring plug".

Without the relay in hand, the common SalesPerson's question is, "Is it a 4 pin, or a 5 pin relay"?

Beleive me, just because you buy a 4 pin relay, for a 4 pin wiring plug, don't mean that relays pins actually match the contacts in the wiring plug. Look Close!!

You have to locate, and may need to remove each relay, until you find the one that matches the number you have from the manual.

Because of location, its almost impossible to read the numbers. Sometimes a mirror will work, but it reverses what your reading.

Once you locate the right relay, you can pull it, make sure it matches the contacts of the wiring plug connector, and take it with you to match the new one.

I have both a Hayne's and Chilton Manual for my vehicle, and neither darn one gives the location of the relays, or which relay is which.

I had to pull each relays wiring plug, one at a time, and then try to see what wasn't working, to determine which relay was which.

1. A bad or unplugged Fuel Pump Relay will be determined, when you can't hear the fuel pump energize, when the key is turned on.

2. A bad or unplugged EEC Relay is determined, when nothing works, and it won't start, when the key is turned on.

3. A bad or unplugged A/C Relay is determined, when the engine is running, the A/C switch is turned on, and the A/C Compressor will not energize.

The problem you are describing, sounds more like a wire is grounded out somewhere. Of course, I guess a really "Toasted" Relay could cause a grounding effect.

Relays are normally between $9 and $20, depending on which one.

Again, the SalesPerson may try to sell you their most expensive relay<(Match the Pins)!!

For me, I don't normally mind, if I have to spend the money, so long as what I get, is the right part and it works.

Good Luck!!