When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi folks - My F500 stops way before my pressure switch actually sends a signal to my brake lights. That brake booster really is something. Does anyone have a recommendation for a more sensitive pressure switch, if it exists? I bought mine from Mac's.
Hi folks - My F500 stops way before my pressure switch actually sends a signal to my brake lights. That brake booster really is something. Does anyone have a recommendation for a more sensitive pressure switch, if it exists? I bought mine from Mac's.
Thanks in advance.
Mr Don't Wanna Be Rear Ended...
Your other option is to install a switch that activates on pedal movement instead of actual brake pressure. This way you ensure that the brake lights come on before actual pressure is applied to the brakes.
In ANY case, you want to signal brake application to the person following you before you actually stop (or begin slowing down) just like you want to activate your turn signals well before actually turning or changing lanes.
Earlier signaling is always better than late signaling (like signaling while you're changing lanes)
Most newer cars activate the brake lights on pedal movement instead of brake application pressure.
I got one from Mid-fifty. I don't remember the price but look it up it was not too much. And my brake lights do come on a lot faster, as soon as I tap the pedal.
Just after I got my back from the body shop in 1999, my son (who was 7 or 8) and I were driving somewhere. I told him my biggest fear was getting rear ended. He said, Gee Dad, I thought your biggest fear was drowning? You see I can't swim and I probably said that once. I said, Well when I am in my truck that is my biggest fear!
This is a first for me...never heard of a situation where a truck the size of an F500 would stop with less brake pressure than would activate the pressure switch. Something sounds fishy, like a blockage or possibly a bad switch.
This is a first for me...never heard of a situation where a truck the size of an F500 would stop with less brake pressure than would activate the pressure switch. Something sounds fishy, like a blockage or possibly a bad switch.
I certainly can't speak to the quality or functionality of the existing switch. But I can say the brake system is 100% new. I replaced everything: lines, booster, master and wheel cylinders and fresh brake fluid. Sure it's a big truck but I was thinking that without the booster I bet the switch would actually activate appropriately. At least then you'd have to stand on the pedal to stop giving the switch the 60 pounds it needs to activate the lights. I know the boosters were an accessory. It seems to add so much more braking power that the brakes actually stop the truck with much less than 60 with no load. At least that's the way it seems. I'm only thinking theoretically.
Edit: Scratch that. Booster or no booster the brakes would require the same pressure to stop regardless of how hard someone is pushing on the pedal. Hmm.
I bought my switch from Ron Francis Wiring. It is supposed to take less pressure to activate. It is also supposed to be safe with silicone Dot 5 fluid.
I think the brake pedal switch is the best way to go, electric current is a lot faster triggering the brake lights that the pressure switch in my opinion and experience .
This is a first for me...never heard of a situation where a truck the size of an F500 would stop with less brake pressure than would activate the pressure switch. Something sounds fishy, like a blockage or possibly a bad switch.
The original stock brake switch is $22.50 at Mid Fifty. The new brake light switch activates the brake light switch with less pressure than the old one.
This has always puzzled me, as why the switch was on the master cylinder which is
incorrect. Pressure out from the master is very low pressure. The booster is what
amplifies pressure and thats where the switch should be. I have the same problem
with my loader, the loaders master cyl is same as a F8-F900 and same booster. Stop
lights never worked & I have tried many switches none worked. I could tee into the
output line on the booster but I rather put a switch under the dash Napa's got em..
A mechanical switch is almost always preferable but if hydraulic is used it must be installed after the booster. Also, if a tandem output booster is employed two switches should be installed in parallel.
After doing some more research on these brake systems I can now see where there could be an issue with brake pressure at the switch. I guess that this is one of those instances where Ford had to make a design decision that accommodated various boosters without a need to replumb the brake light circuit each time. Looks like the lower pressure switch is the way to go...stock appearance and no rewiring.
This has always puzzled me, as why the switch was on the master cylinder which is
incorrect. Pressure out from the master is very low pressure. The booster is what
amplifies pressure and thats where the switch should be. I have the same problem
with my loader, the loaders master cyl is same as a F8-F900 and same booster. Stop
lights never worked & I have tried many switches none worked. I could tee into the
output line on the booster but I rather put a switch under the dash Napa's got em..
You're onto something here. I'd really like to get a few measurements out of the master to see what pressure actually stops the truck. I'll have to see about rigging something up just for the curiosity factor. Perhaps I could do the same out of the booster. It does seem like a flawed design. In any case I ordered the Painless 80174 pressure switch which kicks in at 25 pounds instead of the stock 60 from Mac's (and others...) I'll report back when I install it this week.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.