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I don't think it a good idea to run the glow plugs for 2 minutes before cranking. You need the glow plugs ON when sucking that cold air into the cylinders to keep the cylinders hot. I usually wait for the WTS light to go OFF then maybe another 5 seconds on cold days.
Of course all stuff mentioned above factor into it also.
I am surprised to see any kind of warranty on an electrical part. Most of the time once you are out of the parts house door you are on your own with electrical components. They just tell you it's your fault that all of the smoke came out.
Don't forget to look at the voltage drop on the cables during cranking.
I replaced one battery last year. I was impressed how much faster it turned over!
One of the two batteries was just along for the ride. You have to separate them to test them. I used an El Cheapo load tester, the bad battery just folded under load.
Over here on the west cost we are still waiting for temps to drop below the high 40's for the most part.
I don't think it a good idea to run the glow plugs for 2 minutes before cranking. You need the glow plugs ON when sucking that cold air into the cylinders to keep the cylinders hot. I usually wait for the WTS light to go OFF then maybe another 5 seconds on cold days.
Of course all stuff mentioned above factor into it also.
I understand what you are saying but I haven't seen any indications that the engine suffers from letting the glow plugs time out before starting.
"Over here on the west cost we are still waiting for temps to drop below the high 40's for the most part."
This time of year I wish that I was still on the West COAST. It was 18* last night in NE Cali but the local old timers tell me that I am still in the banana belt where I am.
I don't think it a good idea to run the glow plugs for 2 minutes before cranking. You need the glow plugs ON when sucking that cold air into the cylinders to keep the cylinders hot. I usually wait for the WTS light to go OFF then maybe another 5 seconds on cold days.
Of course all stuff mentioned above factor into it also.
It's my understanding is that the GPR will power the GP's for up to 2 minutes and there's no correlation between the WTS light and the GPR. Unless you've wired a light to your GPR you have no idea how long or even when the GPR is turning the GP's on unless you have a voltage meter in the truck. If it's COLD, single digits, and the trucks not plug in then I'll let the GPR cycle until the my GPR LED goes out, then turn key off and back on so the GP's are on when I actually start it. IMO if you're only running the GPR until the WTS light goes out you're really not giving your GP's a chance to do much for the cylinders especially in serious COLD. And by cold I mean Northern or Mountain cold not Southern cold.
I, too, have been through the DB Electrical Chinese knockoff Denso-style starters, and they start off well but don't hold up. My local rebuild shop had a couple of rebuilt "true" Nippondenso starters on the shelf, and now they are BOTH on my shelf waiting for my 3-bolt Mitsubishi starter to die. I would not go back to DBE for their Denso-style starters. If you want the really high torque Denso unit, make sure that it's a true Nippondenso unit and not one of the cheaper knockoffs.
Pete is dead on here. Buy from a reputable source and ensure the part is genuine. The cost will be significantly more, but sometimes you get what you pay for.
Below is a picture of the OEM vs Denso, clearly a difference.
Also, a word of caution. The mounting surface for the Denso is nearly twice the thickness of the OEM surface. I ended up using 45mm bolts instead of the OEM 30mm which would be far too short after mating the starter up to the mounting location.
Picture of the 45mm bolts through the mounting surface and transmission housing.
OEM, 35mm and 40mm bolts from left to right. As mentioned earlier, I used 45mm on a ZF6 truck, but a 40mm may be sufficient in a 4R100 truck.
Pete is dead on here. Buy from a reputable source and ensure the part is genuine. The cost will be significantly more, but sometimes you get what you pay for.
Below is a picture of the OEM vs Denso, clearly a difference.
Also, a word of caution. The mounting surface for the Denso is nearly twice the thickness of the OEM surface. I ended up using 45mm bolts instead of the OEM 30mm which would be far too short after mating the starter up to the mounting location.
Picture of the 45mm bolts through the mounting surface and transmission housing.
OEM, 35mm and 40mm bolts from left to right. As mentioned earlier, I used 45mm on a ZF6 truck, but a 40mm may be sufficient in a 4R100 truck.
Excellent Sous! I too have that exact starter. Never did it dawn on me about bolt length, while installing it. Did have to rotate positive mount for fitment.... You have a "m" thread for that bolt...aka m10, m8....etc
Excellent Sous! I too have that exact starter. Never did it dawn on me about bolt length, while installing it. Did have to rotate positive mount for fitment.... You have a "m" thread for that bolt...aka m10, m8....etc
I did not have to rotate anything or cut anything as others have had to do.
I should have included that information in with the original post, my apologies. They are M10-1.5x45mm bolts.
Sous- what hardness of bolts did you use? Keep in mind it is suspending a lot of weight with lots of bouncing/shock going down the road.
Great info!
They are 8.8. I was very careful not to over tighten them because Mark is right, they are going through the starter holes and into aluminum. They are snugged, then a bit extra, but that is it. That thing is in there good though because of the extra 15mm of the bolt length providing much more friction surface.
Big Black Dually is the one who let me know about this potential issue before I even crawled under the truck. So, I can only take the publicizing credit, not the discovery credit.
Thanks doggy for bolt spec.... Reason I went with new starter, let alone the rep on DB, was for cold start issue. After installing, I figured there's no way my rides' not going to struggle in the cold...bad mistake. Miss October in Bishop, mornings hit mid/high 30's..etc, and nothing but white smoke. You'd think with the starter capable of lifting this mother it of its nest, that the died would create the heat to ignite... Think, I'll have the OEM starter rebuilt(even though it was still working 😠
