Hey guys I'm starting with a very simple "rat rod" primer look. My buddy who owns a shop said I should save some money and just rattle can primer the truck myself since I am not going to be doing any bodywork or have the truck sandblasted right now and rust repairing. Paying to have it primered over the existing stuff to only get it blasted down the line just adds in cost. What do you guys think and has anyone done it? It's a $100 or so expense vs $600

 

PO used spray can primer to make it all one color (even though there was flame painted on top the front fender). The thing you have to remember is primer doesn't seal the elements away from the metal. Are you wanting to seal your sheet metal and that is why your spraying? How long are you planning to leave it in primer? Are you going to strip it down to bare metal before you do any body work? I would buy a flat cheap single stage to pray the truck yourself for the practice and to keep the moister away

 

I want to spray it because my bed and cab are two different colors and distressed. I didn't intend to strip it down to bare metal but rather just spray over what's already there and I would leave it like that for a few years until I have the time and funds for a full restore. What do you mean by single stage?

 

Moe makes some good points.
A plus is you will get an even spray with a gun. Check out TPC Global. One gallon of primer reduced should cover your truck. If a friend has the spray equipment you might have $200 bucks into it and you will gain some experience with a paint gun.

Primers, Hardeners & Pre-Coatings

If you shop around you can find some good deals, PPG is a good choice but is a little more pricey:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PPG-DP90LF-B...846734&vxp=mtr

 

You could shoot it in primer if it is epoxy as it will keep the elements at bay. Google SPI. They make a great epoxy that comes in under ~$190 for 2 mixed gallons. It's a 2K or 2 component, (primer and activator) and SPI is mixed 1:1 so you have two gallons. If you have a buddy that has the need for epoxy primer on the horizon, you could split the cost. Oh, yeah, free shipping!! And epoxies don't have the nasty components that will knock you to your knees or worse if you don't have supplied air. Yes, you still need the proper respirator. And, do some proper prep before shooting any primer. If you google SPI, you will have the chance to read about it on many forums. Haven't seen a bad word, yet. The owner of the company is reported to give you his personal cell number to assist in the solving of any problems.

Single stage paint is just that. You shoot the color coat after primer/sealer and nothing else. The other paint system is a 2 stage or more commonly base coat/clear coat. You shoot the color coat and then clear.

If you had a buddy needing some primer and got it for ~$90/gallon, that would probably be equal to or perhaps cheaper than the numerous rattle cans you would have to buy.

Be careful looking at primers on ebay. Read carefully, most ads are for just the primer. You can double the cost time you buy activator, which you need to set up most brands of epoxy.

 

While I have crude spray gun skills, the results you'll get with that approach will be vastly superior to any rattle can. The can coverage and spray pattern limitations only frustrated me with the final look. Your results may vary.

 

1952henry is correct in that you want to use an epoxy primer. Eastwood's epoxy primer is super durable and it dries like concrete (looks like it too). One gallon with catalyst is just under $100. Eastwood Gray, White & Black Epoxy Primer Kits

My next door neighbor is restoring a 1970 Mustang while I was restoring my F500. He used this exact product. It sprays well but you have to be cognizant of your gun tip. If you have a 1.5mm tip or smaller it may spatter a bit. Anything larger (1.6mm+) you'll be OK with Eastwood's mixing ratio.

In the end 1) you'll never get a durable finish from a rattle can and 2) it won't protect from the elements and 3) you'll need probably 30 rattle cans to do the entire truck. A can a decent primer is probably $5.

Both the Self Etching High Build primer and Epoxy primers from Eastwood (And I assume SPI products) will definitely seal it well.

 

While I personally would not use rattle cans (expensive, poor spray pattern, paint is over-thinned, etc), I understand the OPs position...make the truck all one color. Durbility, rust prevention, etc are not a stated concern. I say go for it. Find a brand with a wide fan pattern, I like Krylon Rust Tough because it sprays in a fine mist, goes on smoothly, covers well, and looks pretty good when dry. I use their semi-gloss black a lot because it looks like an OEM finish for chassis parts. You can buy it on Amazon by the case and save some bucks...good luck.

 

Use a tintable sealer instead. You can make it whatever color you want and it won't absorb water like primer.

 

Spraying rattle cans gets old after the first 6. I would only use them to cover a spot to keep away surface rust long enough for you to sand it and spray the whole truck with a decent sealer.

 

Summit racing is also a good place for inexpensive paint and primers. They sell a flat paint that would give you the "rat rod primer" look you said you want. its cheap and it comes in several colors. It would give you the protection you need and the look you want. Harbor Freight and Summit both carry cheap paint guns if you decide to go that route.

But like Charlie said use a good quality rattle can and you will be fine also.

The only thing is you do not list where you are, so none of us can give you any insight to what might hold up best for your area, e.g. lots of rain, high UV sun, etc....

 

+1 for SPI epoxy. You can check my build thread I've used it on the frame and the cab. Very easy to spray, low cost, and their user forum is very helpful.

 

Back when I was in high school in the early 80s, I primed my entire truck with Krylon red primer. I was driving it and working on it so I would remove a fender, prime, and then reinstall it. I did the whole truck that way. I did access to a paint booth or gun, I was working in my parents carport and yard.

It probably took 4 or 5 cases of cans, 12 cans per case. Not the best plan, but I was high school and working odd jobs as I went

After I got the whole thing primed over the course of a year, I then paid a guy to paint it with acrylic enamel. He didn't complain. However, I wouldn't recommend that to anyone ever again

 

SPI black epoxy has uv protection for 5 years or so. I believe there is a guarantee. And, epoxy primers, unlike conventional primers, will not allow moisture to pass through. Rain would not be an issue.

 

From the original post, it seems to me he looking for something he can remove at some later time. Epoxy wouldn't be a good choice for that. That stuff is like stone and bonds really tight. I won't want to ever remove it. If I misunderstood the post, never mind.
Anyway SPI is highly recommended and is a polyester epoxy which is not as brittle as regular epoxy. Epoxy is a great DTM ( direct to metal ) primer and is waterproof.
For whatever it's worth the paint gurus on HAMB think Eastwood stuff is crap. I'm just sayin'. Never used it myself.