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Good evening everyone,
I have Autoenginuity and I am just beginning to figure out how to use it. Unfortunately that seem to be easier than figuring out what it is actually telling you once you can use it. I have read Tuglys AE Class thread several times but I am still a bit confused. I was hoping to post a couple log runs and get some input on the general health of my truck. Hopefully the attachments will come through and be useful.
The truck actually runs rather well when warm but it seems to have developed some issues mostly cold. Never a no start but it tends to romp and act nasty when cold. Also on a cold start with a normal idle it takes a ton of throttle just to move it around the driveway. That's new this winter. Let it warm up for a few minutes and it is fine.
Anyway, thanks in advance let me know if you can read the files.
The stock tune looks textbook stock, here's an old graph of mine from the stock days:
Same truck, same day, 80 HP tune:
Your ICP and IPR look better than they did on my old chipped stocker - I can only assume the Fuel Injector Pulse Width is 4ms or lower - or you have one tough HPOP. I say that because once I installed the T500, my 80 HP data looked identical to yours.
I'd really like to see your 65 HP tune in action (with logging). Please don't forget the FIPW.
As for the cold misbehavior - what oil are you running?
That's good news, thanks for looking at it.
I am running Rotella Dino 15/40. Perhaps I should try some 5/40 for the rest of the winter and go back to the 15/40 in the summer?
I have attached the 65DD and it does have FIPW as well.
Yes... 5W-40 is a huge help in the winter - as in not a subtle difference.
I looked at the data. Crud. It's still a little hot. Here's something to try: Repeat the 65DD run, but don't completely floor it - just go about 3/4 throttle.
I can do that, but it may not be today. Truck is home in the driveway and we have below 0 wind chills today.
By hot are you referring to the above 50 IPR? If not could you elaborate?
I believe I could also load a 40HP tune if the tune still seems to be too hot for my setup. Also, could my Baldwin 1212 pre pump filter be causing issues as well?
...By hot are you referring to the above 50 IPR? If not could you elaborate?
I believe I could also load a 40HP tune if the tune still seems to be too hot for my setup. Also, could my Baldwin 1212 pre pump filter be causing issues as well?
"Hot" as in asking the injectors to do more than they are capable of, and as a result - the ICP dips while the IPR and EGTs climb. The 40 HP tune may be the sweet spot on your truck - but I wouldn't completely rule out that 1212.
I tried a pump prefilter and it was a total fail. I then went to a pump prestrainer and that solved a lot of woes.
That's why I asked about the filter, I saw where you had issues with it. Then again I'm, sure you were demanding more from it than I can. I actually ordered the Racor on Friday and should have later this week. I will load the 40 and get the additional info on the 65. Did I log all the necessary info and parameters with the 65 this time? If so I will log the same way as the last. Shame my version doesn't have session save! Grrrrr!
FYI, I also used the cheap worm drive clamps that came with the kit. Could air be causing problems?
One other thing often overlooked on cold runnability issues is "oil level". If you haven't checked it in a while, you should. Once you get to the "1 gallon low" point, which is between the bottom of the hash marks and the bottom of the dipstick on my truck, cold oil will not flow well on startup and your truck can sometimes have trouble getting out of its own way. I've seen that happen on the times when I inadvertently ran down close to 2 gallons low, but that is with 5w40 full synthetic.... it would only be worse with 15w40.
If entrained air in the fuel is causing problems , it would be all the time, and NOT only during cold engine conditions. Personally, all I have used is the "cheap worm drive" clamps, and have no issue at all when they are double-clamped. I simply make sure to use a ratchet & socket (or box end wrench) to tighten them, and I NEVER EVER rely on just a screwdriver for that task. Granted, the other clamps recommended by Rich and others are certainly better choices, but you can get away with the worm drive types if you're careful and tighten them thoroughly.
Checked the oil and it was about 1/2 Quart low, I don't think that would be the cause at this point. Didn't bother to top it off since I am more than likely going to change it this weekend. (unless we get the snow they are calling for in the east). Will just use the CC heater instead.
I hear you on the worm drives, I plan to swap the ones out at the filter when I change it out for the Racor just to be sure. I figure I can monitor the ones at the tank via the strainer bowl and determine if they require attention.
Well, finally got out from under the record snow fall here and had a chance to get back to the truck. Since the last post I have changed to T6 5w/40 and replaced the Baldwin 1212 with a Racor PS120-02. The oil change made a difference right away in the cold crank speed, and made the engine run much quieter. It is really noticeable at highway speeds. I also liked the fit of the Racor better as it is a bit shorter than the Baldwin.
I was able to go out today and log a WOT run with my 40HP DD tune. File attached. Let me know if you see anything of concern.
I looked at the data and the ICP/IPR is good, but not great. The FIPW is a little long at WOT. Oh... and you'll want to go into your FIPW setting to change the scale value to 1000 in order to get the reading in milliseconds. I have no idea why they default it to seconds in the software, but here we are. Your MAP has just over 20 PSI boost and the Exhaust Back Pressure bounced around 27-28 PSI above BARO. This is consistent with a stock turbo, but I would hope the tune would have given a little more air. I forgot if the red line on the turbo was connected or capped.
Thanks for looking, I know time has been occupied on your truck.
The red line is hooked up. This time instead of matting it from 50mph, I rolled into the throttle slowly from about 50. You can actually see the ICP drop once I got the pedal to the floor. I did see that on the FIPW I will fix that on the next one. I also saw the Exhaust BP and that didn't look normal to me, but I really didn't know what it meant. The Truck has about 125k on it so I figure things are bound to start getting tired.
So at this point what would you recommend I do going forward as far as additional improvements to clean up the graph, and improve performance?
You mentioned the ICP doesn't look great, Stock Turbo issues.
I'm not afraid to dive in but I would think there needs to be a method to my madness.
I will cap it off and see how it does. Would that also have something to do with the exhaust bP jumping around when the waste gate lifts? Or is that just the limits of a stock turbo?
I have been able to get up to 53 PSI EBP (about 39 PSI above BARO) with a tuned stock turbo/injector combination - but that's the sensor limit, and I am unsure how far above that I have gone. I suspect the EBP gets bouncy when the boost gets to the edge of the performance envelope. A worn turbo would have a different envelope than a pristine one, so this line is a moving target. That being said, I know for sure EBP gets bouncy with a boost leak - my data over time has shown that.
I forgot to mention - 125K is nothing on these engines. I bought mine with 220K and it was beat down bad (I didn't know any better at the time) - but it still kept chugging with upgrades until 310K. I don't think my engine would be in the sad shape it's in now were it not for the abuse it endured before I bought it.
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