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I think I've cracked the problem that Pitweiller13 ran into when he tried to adjust the ignition switch according to the 1981 factory shop manual. Basically, I think the shop manual is wrong.
The manual says to:
Rotate the ignition key back and forth to either side of lock, until a 5/64" drill bit can be inserted through the locking pin hole as far as possible (minimum 3/8"). The lock pin hole is located on the right of the switch next to the steering column tube.
Unfortunately, you aren't going to get a 5/64" (.078") bit through the lock pin holes in the switch. It turns out that the largest bit I can get through the lock pin holes on any of my three switches is a .047" bit, and that seems to be a perfect fit on all three. Oddly enough, that's a #56 bit, so I think some scribe somewhere mistakenly said 5/64" when it should have been #56. Or, maybe it should have been a 3/64" bit, which is also .047". But, a 5/64" bit will not fit.
Further, while the manual is correct that the hole is on the right side of the switch, you are not going to be able to find it from the right side. In the 2nd picture, below, the drill bit is resting against the column. So, you cannot see the hole from the right side. In fact, you can't even see the hole when you have the switch off until you get it in the perfect lighting - I didn't find it until I took a picture and the flash penetrated the darkness. So, you have to come in from the left side of the switch with the pin.
Anyway, I've rewritten the shop manual instructions on my web site on the Ignition Switch page and have added the following pictures as well as the pin-out and continuity testing info on the switch. Hopefully this, finally, works.
I think I've cracked the problem that Pitweiller13 ran into when he tried to adjust the ignition switch according to the 1981 factory shop manual. Basically, I think the shop manual is wrong.
The manual says to:
Rotate the ignition key back and forth to either side of lock, until a 5/64" drill bit can be inserted through the locking pin hole as far as possible (minimum 3/8"). The lock pin hole is located on the right of the switch next to the steering column tube.
Unfortunately, you aren't going to get a 5/64" (.078") bit through the lock pin holes in the switch. It turns out that the largest bit I can get through the lock pin holes on any of my three switches is a .047" bit, and that seems to be a perfect fit on all three. Oddly enough, that's a #56 bit, so I think some scribe somewhere mistakenly said 5/64" when it should have been #56. Or, maybe it should have been a 3/64" bit, which is also .047". But, a 5/64" bit will not fit.
Further, while the manual is correct that the hole is on the right side of the switch, you are not going to be able to find it from the right side. In the 2nd picture, below, the drill bit is resting against the column. So, you cannot see the hole from the right side. In fact, you can't even see the hole when you have the switch off until you get it in the perfect lighting - I didn't find it until I took a picture and the flash penetrated the darkness. So, you have to come in from the left side of the switch with the pin.
Anyway, I've rewritten the shop manual instructions on my web site on the Ignition Switch page and have added the following pictures as well as the pin-out and continuity testing info on the switch. Hopefully this, finally, works.
I've tried and tried to get my phone to zoom in on the pic but it's not cooperating. What's that part # ? Looks like and E6 or EG as the 1st two letters/numbers....
That's actually a pic from the one that I took off as it is easier to photograph than the one on the column. But, the #'s are the same.
Mine is E4TA-11572-AA. Mine has the place for the bit but it's solid behind it. Nothing can pass thru. When I look it up I find 87-94 bronco and 84 f250. Is my switch wrong for this truck?
First, have you tried moving the internals to get a bit to pass through? You can't get it to go through except at exactly one spot.
As for your switch, it is the right one. I've added a bit to my web page that includes the part #'s from the parts catalog, and added this phrase: "Note that the original switches for some trucks were marked E0TA-11572-B1B, but those were replaced by ones marked E4TA-11572-A."
Let's be clear that the number ON the part is an engineering number, and not a part number (that you can order)
The # that shows on a part is what you'll see in the Description column. The # you can order shows in the Part Number column. That's why I said the E0TA-11572-B1B is what is shown on the part.
But I wanted those who read this to understand that what is on the part is frequently, but not always, different than the # we call "part number", and different than what they can order. As an example, the switch I have is marked E0TZ-11572-B1B. But, the part # you can order is E4TZ-11572-A. I have no understanding of why there are two #'s, but there are.
Parts get superceded, but if they retrofit the *part* number stays the same even if the engineering number is updated.
Maybe it is *exactly* the same but in 1984 they speced a better plastic.
Then all the new parts would have an '84 prefix and a new revision number.
Well, the # in the Part Number column changed on the ignition switch when Ford replaced the early one for these trucks with a later one. And, if you can't see it, the early # is E4TZ-11572-A and the replacement is F2TZ-11572-F.
First, have you tried moving the internals to get a bit to pass through? You can't get it to go through except at exactly one spot.
As for your switch, it is the right one. I've added a bit to my web page that includes the part #'s from the parts catalog, and added this phrase: "Note that the original switches for some trucks were marked E0TA-11572-B1B, but those were replaced by ones marked E4TA-11572-A."
10-4. Got it. Can see the light. Problem now is 1/16th is the smallest bit I've got. Looking for some fence wire or something but I'd say it's too big as well.
So when I find something to fit in there, the column has a hole or divot the bit will catch to align by?
The pin has nothing to do with the column. The bit is just resting against the column in the picture. The outside of the switch has the slot, which you see in the picture of the left side, and the slide that the rod moves inside the switch has a tiny hole in it. When those two align you push the bit through and it keeps the switch in the LOCK position.
For the pin, maybe a needle? We need to come up with some common thing to use as most only have bits down to 1/16", like you.
The pin has nothing to do with the column. The bit is just resting against the column in the picture. The outside of the switch has the slot, which you see in the picture of the left side, and the slide that the rod moves inside the switch has a tiny hole in it. When those two align you push the bit through and it keeps the switch in the LOCK position.
For the pin, maybe a needle? We need to come up with some common thing to use as most only have bits down to 1/16", like you.
I see. So if you can see light thru it then it's lined up properly. I'll keep looking for some wire
Yes, if you have it off and play with it you can get it aligned and see light through it. But, not if it is mounted as the line-of-sight goes through the column.
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