Two problems - both ID'd - One fixed (battery)! (BOTH now fixed)
Two problems - both ID'd - One fixed (battery)! (BOTH now fixed)
==========================================
EDITED on 01/12/2016): Both problems are now resolved! The original thread, though, begins below.
==========================================
... and the Other one (fuel leak) is pending some new parts on Monday.
Problem #2 (the one pending new parts)
Fuel leak... I've been smelling fuel for a week now, and have not been able to locate the source until this morning when I had the time to peek under the hood on cold startup. Until now, it would leak cold, but then seal off as the fuel and engine bay heated up.
Some of you older timers will remember that I installed a prototype of a "ppor man's regulated return" which was designed by the guy who developed Vegistroke upon leaving the military. He has since sold his business, and the current owner no longer makes that particular product. Clay's kit was a sort of spinoff from that initial effort and is an improvement in that it does not require cutting the fuel line returning to the tank.
Anyway, my leak was at the viton sleeve on the fitting where the two returns (one from each head) came together to return to the tank. After 8 years and about 150K miles, the viton got tired and simply was letting go. While removing the fitting, the fuel line slipped completely out of the sleeve and the sleeve itself was as hard as a rock. The local stealership wanted $27 for a fuel bowl kit which would contain another sleeve, but I'll wait until Monday and pick one up from the International Truck store for a couple of bucks.
Problem #1 (the one which is fixed - for now)
The problem which was fixed was my cold start issue. Dragging starts, barely getting the truck running in the morning if it was below 35 degF. Cables were clean and tight. Alternator was cranking out the juice easily and very fast. Once the engine started and the GPR shut off, my voltage would return back to 14.6-14.7 volts in under 30 seconds, and this was after dipping into the mid 8's right before it would fire off on startup. Heck, it even reset the trip meter on one startup right before catching and firing up.
On cold startup, before switching on the key (with lights NOT on auto), voltage would be about 12.1v. Once hte switch was turned and the GPR lit up, voltage would drop to anywhere from 10.8-11.3v, depending upon ambient temperature. While cranking, the voltage would drop into the mid-to-low 9's, but would sometimes hit into the upper 8's. Upon starting, before the GPR turned off, voltage would climb back to about 12.1-12.3. Like I said, once the GPR kicked off, the alternator would push the system voltage back into the mid 14 within 30 seconds.
Sooo, this morning, I disconnected both batteries and they both checked at 12.5 volts. Just to be sure, I hauled them over to Advance Auto, and by the time I got there, the DS battery was only reading 11.7 volts, but the PS battery was OK. Under load testing, the DS battery showed 1 CCA while the PS battery showed 651. These are 800 CCA Red Tops, but they are almost exactly 35 months old.
I did the unthinkable, but I had a good reason... I let AA replace the one DS battery under the 36 month 100% replacement coverage warranty and did NOT purchase a second battery to keep matching battery ages.
You see, the second battery was going to be $230 (to get a matching Red Top). If I had just forgotten all about sticking with Optima and gone over to Costco, the new new batteries over there would have run me about the same cost. Consequently, I chose to run with one new and one old battery, fulling charging both before installing them.
I expect I'll be able to sneak through the remaining cold weather just fine, and then the summer will be easier on the batteries, and I'll just do the Costco replacement routine this coming fall after I've had a chance to set the money aside.
I know one thing for certain, though, with the two batteries in the truck (right before I detected the issue behind Problem #2 above... my engine spun over and fired off like it did three years ago when I first installed the last set of new batteries.
So, now when the cold comes in again this coming week, I'll be able to get solid engine starts and NOT have the cab heater pulling in diesel fumes while I'm staying warm!
EDITED on 01/12/2016): Both problems are now resolved! The original thread, though, begins below.
==========================================
... and the Other one (fuel leak) is pending some new parts on Monday.
Problem #2 (the one pending new parts)
Fuel leak... I've been smelling fuel for a week now, and have not been able to locate the source until this morning when I had the time to peek under the hood on cold startup. Until now, it would leak cold, but then seal off as the fuel and engine bay heated up.
Some of you older timers will remember that I installed a prototype of a "ppor man's regulated return" which was designed by the guy who developed Vegistroke upon leaving the military. He has since sold his business, and the current owner no longer makes that particular product. Clay's kit was a sort of spinoff from that initial effort and is an improvement in that it does not require cutting the fuel line returning to the tank.
Anyway, my leak was at the viton sleeve on the fitting where the two returns (one from each head) came together to return to the tank. After 8 years and about 150K miles, the viton got tired and simply was letting go. While removing the fitting, the fuel line slipped completely out of the sleeve and the sleeve itself was as hard as a rock. The local stealership wanted $27 for a fuel bowl kit which would contain another sleeve, but I'll wait until Monday and pick one up from the International Truck store for a couple of bucks.
Problem #1 (the one which is fixed - for now)
The problem which was fixed was my cold start issue. Dragging starts, barely getting the truck running in the morning if it was below 35 degF. Cables were clean and tight. Alternator was cranking out the juice easily and very fast. Once the engine started and the GPR shut off, my voltage would return back to 14.6-14.7 volts in under 30 seconds, and this was after dipping into the mid 8's right before it would fire off on startup. Heck, it even reset the trip meter on one startup right before catching and firing up.
On cold startup, before switching on the key (with lights NOT on auto), voltage would be about 12.1v. Once hte switch was turned and the GPR lit up, voltage would drop to anywhere from 10.8-11.3v, depending upon ambient temperature. While cranking, the voltage would drop into the mid-to-low 9's, but would sometimes hit into the upper 8's. Upon starting, before the GPR turned off, voltage would climb back to about 12.1-12.3. Like I said, once the GPR kicked off, the alternator would push the system voltage back into the mid 14 within 30 seconds.
Sooo, this morning, I disconnected both batteries and they both checked at 12.5 volts. Just to be sure, I hauled them over to Advance Auto, and by the time I got there, the DS battery was only reading 11.7 volts, but the PS battery was OK. Under load testing, the DS battery showed 1 CCA while the PS battery showed 651. These are 800 CCA Red Tops, but they are almost exactly 35 months old.
I did the unthinkable, but I had a good reason... I let AA replace the one DS battery under the 36 month 100% replacement coverage warranty and did NOT purchase a second battery to keep matching battery ages.
You see, the second battery was going to be $230 (to get a matching Red Top). If I had just forgotten all about sticking with Optima and gone over to Costco, the new new batteries over there would have run me about the same cost. Consequently, I chose to run with one new and one old battery, fulling charging both before installing them.
I expect I'll be able to sneak through the remaining cold weather just fine, and then the summer will be easier on the batteries, and I'll just do the Costco replacement routine this coming fall after I've had a chance to set the money aside.
I know one thing for certain, though, with the two batteries in the truck (right before I detected the issue behind Problem #2 above... my engine spun over and fired off like it did three years ago when I first installed the last set of new batteries.
So, now when the cold comes in again this coming week, I'll be able to get solid engine starts and NOT have the cab heater pulling in diesel fumes while I'm staying warm!
best of luck mate!! sounds like you got it sorted...just wish I knew where the local International truck store for my area was, the only one I know of is in Louisville, Ky, a nice ~69 min drive from where I live...
You know, Rich, I may be remembering wrong, and that kit I installed 8 years ago may have had Buna sleeves instead of Viton.
Laugh all you want, Jason. "Cold" is relative! We are being promised about a week of lows in the mid 20's... They just won't let me control the thermostat to bring down any further right now.
Yes it is Pete, no disrespect intended. There are lots of our brothers on here dealing with real cold. We could have worn shorts (and I did) Christmas day. It was 65 earlier today, going down to 26 tonight....no snow at all yet this year. It's been a weird season so far.
Trending Topics
I hear you, Jason. No disrespect received by any means.
We're down in the low 20's this morning, and I'm really itching to get the new sleeve in so I can be back in MY truck in the cold... especially with both the leak and cold start issue behind me.
After I insert this sleeve, I can get back to finishing the shaker table I'm building for my wife!
We're down in the low 20's this morning, and I'm really itching to get the new sleeve in so I can be back in MY truck in the cold... especially with both the leak and cold start issue behind me.
After I insert this sleeve, I can get back to finishing the shaker table I'm building for my wife!
We've had two feet of snow at my home so far this year, and when I'm not pushing a snowblower or a shovel - I'm pushing a wrench to keep Stinky on the road. The P'us isn't exactly a backup vehicle on 45 miles of snow twice a day. Working on the truck in the winter rates so low on my fun-O-meter that I'd rather shovel snow... at least I stay warm. Maybe if I shovel the route to work....
Buds Guns is where they used to be. They moved to Georgetown on Triport road behind the Pilot Truckstop, exit 129 off I-75. The Pilot that's on the east side of the interstate. Bluegrass International.
10 degrees this morning here. Got about an inch of snow yesterday, first measurable snow this winter. Ice under it. I had to use 4x4 just to get out of my concrete driveway yesterday! Snow, no problem. Ice, SUCKS!!!
Studded snow tires are illegal here in the Peoples Republik Of Marylandistan. It was 19* here this morning and windy. Not fun. We are looking at a little snow tomorrow night. Fingers crossed.
Well... I'm putting an order in to Bob at DOR. I did manage to get a couple of sleeves at the International store here, but they were for 1/4" lines, and my line is 5/16". They had one 3/8" sleeve, but none in 5/16". I can make the 1/4" sleeve work for the short term, especially since it's going on the low pressure return line, but I would rather have the proper size in place, if not at least in hand for when the smaller one decides to let go.
WOW, though... the list price at the I-store was $12 EACH. The counter guy thought the price was ludicrous as well, so he let me have them for $6 each. Bob's price is only a tad over $5 for a pair, but then the S&H actually brings the price almost back to what I paid a few minutes ago. The thing is this... I'm going to order a few extra in each size and the S&H won't change at all, so my "price per" will be much better even after S&H. That way, I'll end up with spares on hand for the next event (assuming I can put them in a place where I can remember where I put them!).
I'll end up paying another $27 for 4 of the 1/4" sleeves, 3 of the 5/16", and 2 of the 3/8". That's what the local stealership wanted for the kit which would have only given me 1 sleeve. That makes my investment a total of $39, but leaves me with a total of 9 extra sleeves.
WOW, though... the list price at the I-store was $12 EACH. The counter guy thought the price was ludicrous as well, so he let me have them for $6 each. Bob's price is only a tad over $5 for a pair, but then the S&H actually brings the price almost back to what I paid a few minutes ago. The thing is this... I'm going to order a few extra in each size and the S&H won't change at all, so my "price per" will be much better even after S&H. That way, I'll end up with spares on hand for the next event (assuming I can put them in a place where I can remember where I put them!).
I'll end up paying another $27 for 4 of the 1/4" sleeves, 3 of the 5/16", and 2 of the 3/8". That's what the local stealership wanted for the kit which would have only given me 1 sleeve. That makes my investment a total of $39, but leaves me with a total of 9 extra sleeves.











