I have a 2001 excursion with the v10 engine.. especially thru the winter months at start up the truck will make some engine noise.. referring to other engines im familiar with.. it sounds like it's low on oil. but ive checked, re checked and checked again.. will do it with fresh oil. will do it with what ever grade oil or thickness ive used..

Now after the truck warms up, any and all noise's go away.. and they are not present at start up until the truck has been left to loose it's operating temperature. To me I wanna say it needs an oil pump.. but the pressure on guage does not indicate that.. and again, ONLY AT START UP are these noise's present.

If someone was to suggest oil pump. or better yet, oil pump screen is where im really leaning to.. the screen on the pick up.. I feel in my mind it's clogged, and when initial start up happens, it's not getting oil pressure to top of engine until that oil warms up and thins out.. and then is allowed to pass thru a partially clogged screen.. Now of course that's only speculation but I can't think of anything else it can be.. the truck runs flawless other then this..

The best part of this all is i have absolutly 0 money in this excursion, matter fact you could say i was actually paid to take it when you get right down to the swapping i did and money i had in items swapped.. so throwing few dollars at it wouldn't hurt my feelings. just don't know where to throw those dollars..

feel free to throw some ideals at me.. i really like the truck. but feel it's gonna fail if i don't get this issue resolved and resolved relatively quickly at that..

if anyone has changed their oil pump, whats involved, what has to be done.. moved, jacked up.. taken out etc..

thanks for any advice or answer's to my thread..

 

I am not familiar with the idiosyncrasies of the v10 oil system but a good place to start would probably be to install an accurate oil pressure gauge to see if your hunch is correct.

 

Do you have a block heater? It'd be worth plugging it in and seeing if warmer oil helps prove any theories. I know it heats the coolant, but some residual heat should by absorbed by the block and transferred into the oil. A clogged ANYthing would show poor or lower oil pressure across the board, but not always. You can maintain pressure without maintaining volume... depends where your pressure sensor is.

I agree you need an accurate gauge and not a dummy dash gauge with wide parameters and basically a go-no-go display.

Any engine will be more trashy when cold, especially in the winter after sitting. It takes up to 45 seconds for oil to get to where it needs to be upon start up, as it has mostly all drained back into the crankcase. Until the pressure builds and returns, you're going to have noticeably more noise overall. You can attribute yours having more noise than other engines to the fact that you have two more cylinders and all associated mechanics to run them. You should listen to some valvetrains on a Spintron, the amount of noise is insane and makes you wonder what engines would sound like if you couldn't hear it all.

Until you can verify cold and operating temperature oil pressures, everything else will be purely conjecture.

 

good points fellas, and will follow as instructed.. but i know like most of you fella's probably know.. your way around an engine.. i know a little bit.. but nothing of these ford motor's... and this is by far noise that an engine would make that was " low" on oil, or poor flow when cold.. i can and will install a different guage.. but in my opinion, it's gonna tell me i have oil pressure..but in having oil pressure, does that allow oil flow to the entire engine.. so i started thinking the oil pick up.. it makes sense.. i don't know how the previous owner treated it.. but i treat it as it should be.. i just wonder if in it's lifetime.. it was a victim of poor oil maintaince.

 

A clogged pickup should show on the dipstick immediately after shutdown. If it's not pulling the proper amount of oil the. The crankcase should have in excess immediately after you shut it down. Having said that, that in itself can be difficult to determine what 'normal' shutdown level should be so its almost worthless.

Same principle (albeit inversely) as the idiots that add a high flow pump to an otherwise stock oiling system. They suck oil up faster than it can drain back and end up killing bearings and so on. I've had to rebuild several motors that had that situation going on and the valve covers were bleeding oil out the PCV they were so full from insufficient oil drain back.

 

Are you using the correct oil filter ? If the oil system was designed to use a filter with a anti drain valve and you are not using one that could cause issues.

 

What does the noise sound like and how long does it last? Broken exhaust studs can cause a knocking noise at the manifolds when cold, goes away once they get some heat in them. Take a look and see how many studs are broken.

 

Don't forget loose spark plugs, that can sound like a knock much more then one would think.


I get a whine when it's real cold for about 30 sec, otherwise no noise.

 

This^^^^^^ I would start here

 

Moving this over to the V10 forum.

Stewart

 

Try loosening the drive belt and spinning things to see if they spin freely.
My guess would be the belt tensioner or the idler pulley.

 

With the limited amount of info you have posted so far these 3 items are very good places to start.
1.) The V-10 NEEDS a Motorcraft FL-820S oil filter, it has a very good anti-drainback valve in it, other filters without this feature will have your 6.8 sounding like bag of silverware falling down a flight of stairs on a cold startup. This would help explain the warm starts being quiet as the oil doesn't have the added time to drain back like it does after sitting long enough to get back to cold.
2.) Broken exhaust studs are a very common thing on these modular motors and on a cold motor they can sound like a bad valve tap or even a rattle if you have a few missing, a lot of times this will quiet down as the motor heats up.
3.) Many folks have reported a tapping/knocking sound just prior to blowing a plug out of the head. As the plugs gets loose cylinder pressure escapes causing the noise, this could be temp related too with it being worse when cold and taking up some with heat. if this is the problem it will only increase till the plug and COP pop out. The 2001 V-10 has the head design with only a couple of threads in the plug hole so plug changes need to follow the proper procedure very closely to avoid this problem.

EDIT: I just saw you other post here where you said that you have already blown a plug, was that on this same V-10?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15934140

Some more info will help to nail this down though.
How cold is "cold" during these cold starts?
What weight oil(s) have you tried?
What oil filter are you using?
How long will the noise go for before going away at cold start?

Post up some pictures of this no/low cost traded for Ex over in the EX forum, we love great EX stories and picture over there!

 

A great way to diagnose engine noises is:

1) Does the noise get louder when you hit the gas, and then almost disappear when you let off?
2) Does the noise not change volume when you are on and off the gas, but DOES change with engine RPM?

Things like exhaust leaks or loose plugs will do #1.

Things like valve train noise (cam related) and even timing chain or chain tensioner noise will usually do #2.

Piston slap can be hard to diagnose because it might do #1 or #2. (all puns intended).

Low-end noises will usually do #1 to a degree, but not cut completely off when you let off the gas or change in certain ways.

Get a real oil pressure gauge and see what the startup pressure is - my '01 goes right to 70lbs or above on a very cold start.

 

I would be real surprised if it is a bad pump or clogged screen.
If you have money to throw into the truck, why not take it to a reputable shop and have them do some diagnosing? While there is a vast amount of wisdom here, it is stabbing in the dark without being able to hear, see, and work on the truck.