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78 electrical problem

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Old Jan 13, 2016 | 06:33 PM
  #16  
direwolf87's Avatar
direwolf87
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Originally Posted by Filthy Beast
I know you've probably heard it all before and by now you're are tired of explaining it..... but do you have the right brain box (module) - it would be the blue one.....And have you checked it to find out if it's still good?

From what side of the module are you jumping it - the input (Cab/firewall side) or the out put - going to the harness(es) side? ( I'm just trying to back trace wires here).

And the coil ohms out good, with snug fasteners, etc?
I'm wondering about the health of your ballast resistor wire.....
the red wire into the module that is next to the white wire is the one i jump. it runs to the ignition switch it think. going to check everything tomorrow and use all the info gathered here and try everything and see what happens lol. i don't know much about wiring so its gona take some time
 
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Old Jan 14, 2016 | 06:56 AM
  #17  
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aqqus
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Back to OP

I know everyone is trying to help but many are missing the point. Going back to the original post, the problem direwolf is having is not ignition. The issue is lack of electrical power to the ignition. If he hot wires it truck it will start and run so the ignition module is good. Also if I under stand correctly while hot wired often functions in the truck will work. If that's the case then the feed back is powering the other systems.
Direwolf, did you check the YELLOW/BLACK wire at the ignition switch? Use a voltmeter. You need to have VOLTAGE within .5 volts of battery voltage. If you don't have high enough voltage at the switch then you will have an issue where a test light will come on but not enough current to do anything.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 10:21 AM
  #18  
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ZarK-eh
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From: like subarctic, brrr man!
Yeah, this be a stumper.

Gotta head back to basics and check each point between battery and well... everything else. We'll be focusing on the Black/Yellow wire.

the '78 has One main Fusable link between the starter solenoid/relay to the ignition switch (and headlights and cigar lighter). But, depending on wether you have dash gauge cluster (Ammeter) or light cluster, that fusable link changes. For gauge cluster: it's the alternator Black/Red wire and the black/yellow wire feeds from the alternator harness through a 3 wire plug which also serves the horn. A Light cluster, the black/yellow wire goes the the starter relay through a fusable link.

The black/yellow wire splices into two yellow wires to the ignition switch, which I read that you replaced so should be easy enough to test light or voltmeter. While testing this point, wiggle the fusable link and surrounding wiring... perhaps you'll find your fault. Also at the splice is the Fuse Block Feed and Headlights power feed. If this black/yellow wire is not getting power, NOTHING will work! 'cos it supplies the whole truck and all it's fun stuff.

There might be other fusable links but according to the shop manual they're for the trailer lights and plug and auxiliary battery.

Okay, Keep testing! Test Fuses 7 and 8 at the fuse block. Fuse 7: Dome, Cargo, Courtesy, Glove, etc... Cigar Lighter. Fuse 8: Emergency Warning Flasher and Stoplamps. and lastly, Headlight switch since you probably have the dash apart chasing, Headlight switch: Black/Orange (?) in one corner of the plug... should be the biggest thickest one to the headlights.

If your not getting power to any of these points, you found the problem. I can go on about other circuits if need be, but start with this one first.

Edit: edited cos words are herd. I'm going to venture a guess you have an ammeter and that the fault lies within the alternator wire harness or ammter.
 

Last edited by ZarK-eh; Jan 20, 2016 at 10:26 AM. Reason: editing
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Old Jan 23, 2016 | 06:46 AM
  #19  
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aqqus
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diagrams

maybe this will help
 
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