Return "T" O ring lube?
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 57
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From: Texas
Return "T" O ring lube?
Hi,
Went to start the war wagon in the cold; wouldn't start. Checked for air, yep, sure enough, air got in the line. Bled it, got it started....as it was idling I could see fuel bubbling out from the underneath part of the plastic return "T" on one of the injectors.
I have not messed with it yet, and my assumption is the O ring got 'lost it's seat'. And I know these are tempermental, i.e., if you accidently touch one and it moves just a bit, it may lose it's 'seat'.
So, does anyone know of a good gel or oil compound, or any other idea/substance, that could keep the O rings from losing 'seat'.
Please note, I do not drive or start the truck but once a week or so.
Went to start the war wagon in the cold; wouldn't start. Checked for air, yep, sure enough, air got in the line. Bled it, got it started....as it was idling I could see fuel bubbling out from the underneath part of the plastic return "T" on one of the injectors.
I have not messed with it yet, and my assumption is the O ring got 'lost it's seat'. And I know these are tempermental, i.e., if you accidently touch one and it moves just a bit, it may lose it's 'seat'.
So, does anyone know of a good gel or oil compound, or any other idea/substance, that could keep the O rings from losing 'seat'.
Please note, I do not drive or start the truck but once a week or so.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,264
Likes: 7
viton o-rings... use nothing but...
this is the worst part of our trucks.
anything you use will be washed away by the fuel.
really no preventing it.
but new o-rings should last a while.
just dont lean on them.
one of the reasons im trying to make a guy i know produce his aluminum return caps
this is the worst part of our trucks.
anything you use will be washed away by the fuel.
really no preventing it.
but new o-rings should last a while.
just dont lean on them.
one of the reasons im trying to make a guy i know produce his aluminum return caps
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 57
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From: Texas
Ok. And, do you know which O ring size or nomenclature with Viton, or will they know when I tell them the application?
The metal "T" would be a great thing. I have often thought that the entire system should have been metal, as opposed to rubber tubing.
The metal "T" would be a great thing. I have often thought that the entire system should have been metal, as opposed to rubber tubing.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,264
Likes: 7
the T you refer to is called the return line caps.
you can get a complete set from IDIperformance, CDI, or Typefour here on this site,
they know exactly what you need.
not sure on the size of o-rings, i just order the whole entire return line kit.
gotta specify for 6.9 or 7.3
they are 2 different sizes of return lines, the o-rings are all the same.
you can get a complete set from IDIperformance, CDI, or Typefour here on this site,
they know exactly what you need.
not sure on the size of o-rings, i just order the whole entire return line kit.
gotta specify for 6.9 or 7.3
they are 2 different sizes of return lines, the o-rings are all the same.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,264
Likes: 7
not only does the return system return fuel to the tank, it also cools the IP and injectors.
7.3 caps can be used on 6.9's
only difference youll have is the return manifold on the back of the engine.
this can be modified as well.
7.3 caps can be used on 6.9's
only difference youll have is the return manifold on the back of the engine.
this can be modified as well.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 604
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From: Inman KS
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Junior User
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O-rings are packaged of 50 from Mc Masters for less than $15 including shipping. Same o-rings fits the fuel heater, so best to have them on hand.
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
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BS. It does not.
O-rings are size code 111 Viton O-rings; Amazon or McMaster Carr have them cheap.
The trick I've found is to install them using lithium wheel bearing grease. It works /so/ much better than Vasoline in terms of the O-rings actually /not leaking/ when you're done.
Haven't had any issues with degradation either.
As far as air intrusion, block off the return line from the fuel filter. Ford TSB says to do this; it always helps.
If you still have problems, cut the steel line between the low pressure fuel pump and the fuel filter, and install a squeeze bulb primer in-line. It acts as a check valve and solves the problem, no matter what leaking you have on the return side.
O-rings are size code 111 Viton O-rings; Amazon or McMaster Carr have them cheap.
The trick I've found is to install them using lithium wheel bearing grease. It works /so/ much better than Vasoline in terms of the O-rings actually /not leaking/ when you're done.
Haven't had any issues with degradation either.
As far as air intrusion, block off the return line from the fuel filter. Ford TSB says to do this; it always helps.
If you still have problems, cut the steel line between the low pressure fuel pump and the fuel filter, and install a squeeze bulb primer in-line. It acts as a check valve and solves the problem, no matter what leaking you have on the return side.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
Likes: 7
I'd still throw a squeeze bulb or actual good check valve in there; The problem is that the check valve actually has to seal extremely well for fuel to not drain back, if there's a leak 'upwards' of it. Technically, a mechanical fuel pump has to have a check valve on it, so why install another? Problem is, they leak over time. A small internal leak won't prevent the engine from running(due to the leak time being so short), but overnight it can be a problem.
Of course, are you sure it's air intrusion? The only problem you can say is air intrusion is where it fires right off, dies a few seconds later, and then requires cranking for a number of seconds before it starts.
Anything else(hard to start; takes lots of cranking when cold), you should look at your GP and starting system first.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 132
From: Centerville TN
Lets see... I would block off the filter return port. That couldn't hurt.
Of course, are you sure it's air intrusion? The only problem you can say is air intrusion is where it fires right off, dies a few seconds later, and then requires cranking for a number of seconds before it starts.
Anything else(hard to start; takes lots of cranking when cold), you should look at your GP and starting system first.
Of course, are you sure it's air intrusion? The only problem you can say is air intrusion is where it fires right off, dies a few seconds later, and then requires cranking for a number of seconds before it starts.
Anything else(hard to start; takes lots of cranking when cold), you should look at your GP and starting system first.
I checked the GP'S, and show good. They are new zd9's that I installed last year. I'm kinda leaning toward my ip. It starts better when you hold the throttle wide open. It will die if you try to let it idle. Fast idle selinoid is working also. After a few seconds of holding the throttle at around 1000 rpms, it idles on it's own. After initial start, it starts much easier.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
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Blocked the return line off already.
I checked the GP'S, and show good. They are new zd9's that I installed last year. I'm kinda leaning toward my ip. It starts better when you hold the throttle wide open. It will die if you try to let it idle. Fast idle selinoid is working also. After a few seconds of holding the throttle at around 1000 rpms, it idles on it's own. After initial start, it starts much easier.
I checked the GP'S, and show good. They are new zd9's that I installed last year. I'm kinda leaning toward my ip. It starts better when you hold the throttle wide open. It will die if you try to let it idle. Fast idle selinoid is working also. After a few seconds of holding the throttle at around 1000 rpms, it idles on it's own. After initial start, it starts much easier.
You're probably right on the IP thing; either that or the GPs aren't getting /quite/ hot enough.
My engine(with R&D pump) tends to do something similar; try to let it idle when starting and it'll smoke and carry on. Rev it up for 20s and it cleans right up.
It definitely has something to do with the timing; it needs to be more advanced when starting it. But I can't advance it without losing running power, so in my case I'm kind of stuck. I just live with revving it for a bit when first starting cold.
I know getting the GPs hotter helps my case, but doesn't really solve the problem.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 3,602
Likes: 132
From: Centerville TN
It helps if I plug it up overnight, but doesn't solve the problem. The ip has less than 30,000 miles on it. I had a problem trying to get it timed (I have a ferret) awhile back. I'm just going to have to break down and do some work on her. I have a solid mass conversion kit that needs to go in, going to go ahead and do the return lines again and go ahead and work on the GP system too.