Where exactly do you have your filter assy mounted? I was having a hard time seeing the location in the pictures.

 

I don't know much about the Airdog system but I don't think it includes much or any of the engine valley plumbing to replace the fuel bowl. So in addition to the Airdog kit you still need to buy a lot of the parts shown on the worksheet which is going to drive the installed price upwards.

 

I thought I read somewhere that the airdog system has to use airdog filters... and I believe there was issues with those... availability, cost, and maybe quality?

 

Yea a lot people don't realize that.... The airdog or fass is just the pump alone lol

 

Ok thanks thats what I was looking for. So lets say you didnt want to do a complete Efuel system is there ways to boost the performance of the stock system?

 

That's one thing I hated about almost every kit, it dangles below the rails. That's fine if your truck stays on the pavement, but I would have ripped it clean off the frame a long time ago.

I agree on putting all the parts together, I as well lived way out in the stik and had to wait a couple days to get the next piece from summit over and over again, However I wouldn't have done it any other way.

I have a standard cab and limited space. It is mounted to the front fuel tank skid plate. I'll put a hole in the t case or fuel tank long before touching the filter assembly. Easy to access as well.

Agreed
Agreed

Keep your filter clean, that's about all the modifying you can do to the stock system. The stock system is just fine for stock injectors. A lot of guys claim a snappy pedal, unicorn inmprovements with efuel. Besides the fact of feeding bigger injectors I really did not notice a damn thing. Thought a smoother idle, but i think i was trying to create that in my mind.

 

So I just saw that Dieselsite has a complete system for around $1500 but doenst look like it comes with the big filters like the others. Does this still use the stock filter?

http://www.dieselsite.com/dieselsite...97ford73l.aspx

 

jeebus that is a lot, the filters are the cheapest part, I'd be surprised if they didn't come with it!

EDIT, i finally clicked on the link. The filter is in that drain down fuel/water sep bowl. Doesn't appear to be a dual filter setup.

 

Sorry what I mean is it looks like it has a small fuel/water separator but not the big filter system like the other systems have.

 

For 1500 bucks you can buy a base t4 kit and s366... Yes the filter is just like our fuel bowl, The dual filter setups IMO are a bit better

10-40 hp increase....if changing your fuel system increase HP by 18% on these motors everyone would do it.

 

I will also mention, the biggest problem outside of a quality pump I found with the efuel systems is the oil pressure switch that comes in the electrical part for the kits. I would completely get rid of this function if I were you and run the pump power directly to a toggle switch.

I understand its for safety, but I tied three different switch manufactures, cheap or expensive I couldn't get 2 oil changes out of a switch. Bigger pain in the *** than I was wanting.

At least with a toggle you can flip it off in case of an accident, if the ignition does not do so, yes no Oil pressure is a nice function to have, I'd love to have it if someone made a switch that had a 50 k mile warranty. I'd buy it.

 

I'm wondering how the oil pressure switches work, isn't the pump supposed to kick on when you turn the key on to prime the system? When the key is cycled on there is no oil pressure so how would the pump kick on?

 

Strictly Diesel has a harness that I ended up purchasing that does just that. There is a relay that pre primes the system for about 10 seconds without pressure provided during cranking or running. It will shut off after 1 key cycle till it sees low pressure oil pressure at the switch. Once you see low pressure oil pressure at the filter base it will kick on the pump via the switch. If your pressure goes to 0 the switch will turn off the pump if the ignition is on. If you remove the switch your pump will run consistently while the key is on. Bypassing the switch with a toggle will allow you to kick it off in case of emergency, thats if you are coherent. That's a risk you have to accept.

 

I'm probably going to run the bar none wiring harness and keep the switch in for now

 

Thinking about those oil pressure switches, I think they're designed to just occasionally power an idiot light with the normally closed contact. We're using the normally open contact to continuously power the fuel pump relay when there is oil pressure and maybe the contacts weren't designed for continuous duty. Just conjecture because it seems strange they all fail in short order.

Appreciate you posting about the problems you've had, no doubt saved me from some real headaches.