If you have one of the stock MAF housings from the Mustang installed in your truck, then you should be able to match one up. Otherwise, maybe there is a part number on the one that was working before the submarine experiment that you can reference.

There are many ways to setup a MAF in a housing...the MAF can be calibrated for the housing. If not then a calibration tube can be used around the sensor to limit sampling to a certain amount of air in a housing. Alternatively you can just stick the MAF in the housing and tune your MAF curve.

 

I was working on it last night, tested the fuel pressure, reset the computer, was going to check the timing because I had been meaning to.

And you know how I said my spark plugs were fine.............They weren't. #1 had cracked porcelain and was leaking spark. Went down and got a set of plugs and it cured the cough. I think its still down on power a bit but at least it runs smooth.

 

Hey Bovaloe. Does your truck run pretty good with the edelbrock intake and GT40 heads? I have heard some on here say it does not. I have the intake still deciding on the heads. My truck is SD at the moment though. I want to do a MAF conversion some day.

 

It runs great, lots of power. I havent had any problems with the head/intake portion of all the mods.

 

Had you done the MAF conversion before using that head/intake combo? I am not sure how my SD truck will react and don't want to spend another $500 on a conversion kit to make it run right after I do the work (I can't find a donor truck for less than that so I was looking at the eBay seller who sells the overlap wiring harness with refurb ECU and MAF sensor. Last I checked he was asking $500). And still haven't found the heads cheap. GT40Ps all day but few GT40s at a decent price point.

 

I did it all at once, pulled a complete engine harness, sensors, ECU, etc off a junkyard pickup. Had to re-pin the connector when I started running the mustang ECU.

I think the GT40P heads are pretty comparable, performance wise, you would need different headers is all. I think that was the main difference, don't quote me on that though.

 

Yes I have considered the GT40P heads but then I would need long tubes. Which I could do since my truck is 2wd. I already put some cheap shortys on there but not really looking to redo the exhaust since I already paid for a new walker off road y-pipe ($250 after MIR) to go with the shortys and get rid of the torpedo cat a couple months ago. Oddly enough my MPG slightly diminished after the install of the y pipe and new cats (shortys where on previously) but it is winter now since the installation and I have been starting and warming the truck up a bit before driving it down the road so I think that might account for the loss considering its dumping fuel until it gets warm enough. We will see once summer is here.

I have the intake but to pay $200-$300 for GT40Ps, another $500-$600 for some good long tubes with EGR hookup, and another $500 for a MAF set-up is a lot of bones at one time.... that's not even including the custom exhaust I would then need. I need to at least wait to do all this for the truck to be 25 years old so I can get rid of the cats and not worry about them when getting a custom exhaust. I just got into a payment to buy my new truck so I don't have the excess cash I did. Was nice having a paid off car for a year until I wrecked it.

 

Why do you need all that exhaust work?

 

Why did I need? Or why would I need? GT40P heads have a different spark plug angle so they will not work with most shorty headers and definitely not with stock manifolds. I believe the GT40 3 bar heads will work with any and all.

I wanted the walker off road y-pipe with cats because the old torpedo cat I hear is restrictive and it also hangs so freaking low while this one is nice and tucked up in between the frame rails. Only downside is I have a 1 O2 sensor set-up and the walker was set-up for one on each bank since the Y goes into the first cat. So I only have the single O2 sensor in the passenger side. If drivers side is running lean I won't know. I am not sure if I can convert to a 2 O2 sensor set-up. I believe its easy to make a 2 O2 sensor set-up into a 1 though. Also my dad let this truck run rich for so long that the torpedo CAT was at the end of its life.

 

I just wonder why the GT40s would not run good with a edelbrock truck performer intake even if truck is SD. Does it change the compression? I know that they only add around 20-40 HP so its not a huge bolt on difference.

 

It doesnt change the compression noticeably I dont think but the intake has quite a bit longer runners and that might throw the computer off.

 

What did you end up doing with emissions stuff? I already did a smog pump delete so no issues with the GT40 heads not having the holes for the smog tubes.

I still have my EGR hooked up with these shorty headers but if I go the GT40P head route I think I am going to ditch it and block it off at the upper intake but leave it hooked up electronically and to vacuum to avoid a CEL. I am only thinking this since long tubes with out the EGR tube hookup are cheaper and a bunch more plentiful.

Also what about the PCV system? Did you leave that intact? I am not sure if it would be bad on these EFI trucks to just put a old school vent on it and let it go into the atmosphere vs pushing used oil into my new intake. What did you do?

 

I put a penny in the bottom of the EGR and left it hooked up to the intake.

I still have the PCV system plumbed into the bottom of the upper intake. It does push oil in, pretty sure I didnt get my rings seated well enough when I broke in the new engine so its got some blowby