Battery/Charging Questions
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 256
Likes: 2
From: Arizona
Battery/Charging Questions
2007 6.0....I was Individually charging the batteries this weekend (disconnecting one at a time) and charging with my Genius C3500 and I noticed that my drivers side battery took a lot longer to charge fully than the passenger side, both batteries are 3 months old 930 CCA, I have an upgraded alternator from 190 amp (I think) with upgraded basic wiring kit DC Power through Ed at Fecamrepair.com, scangaugeII shows 14.4 volts with Ficam showing good.
I swapped the two batteries around and will keep an eye on them. The drivers side battery was the one to go bad last time.
Any ideas on why the drivers side is loosing power over the passenger side? Thanks for your help
Ed
I swapped the two batteries around and will keep an eye on them. The drivers side battery was the one to go bad last time.
Any ideas on why the drivers side is loosing power over the passenger side? Thanks for your help
Ed
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 4,097
Likes: 23
From: Kissimmee,Fla
Yep, got the same problem but I won't know if I fixed it til I get it running again. You got to put a ground wire from the drivers side battery at the frame to the passenger side ground cable at the block. I made a 28 inch cable out of 1.0 marine cable I had laying around..........Oh, and clean the frame and engine block mounting points good and use dielectric grease
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 256
Likes: 2
From: Arizona
Thanks Per4mance, I have been thinking about doing that as well as maybe making larger cables for the battery to battery connections. I think I will move it up on the list of things to do.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2012
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 256
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From: Arizona
Hello CPB1, Chuck Thank you very much Sir. I started reading the first two pages of the post and looks like I have some studying and doing in the next few days. There sure is a lot of good info there. That may very well solve the problem of the traveling battery.
Thanks
Ed
Thanks
Ed
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Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
I think the drivers side battery is one battery away from the alternator and it has all the electronic loads, the glow plugs, FICM, among other things. I just recently rotated my batteries and cleaned terminals and grounds. I need to do this extra ground from passenger frame to block. I am running a 230 amp alternator.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
The two battery n garish to frame are good, I would look into a 1 gauge from alt to passenger and then drivers side batteries, and add the cross ground mentioned from drivers side frame and battery negative to block. I also have a ground from the stud on the alternator to negative battery cable and a piggy back from alt to passenger battery positive. My cable ends are all good so I am just thinking the cross ground mentioned above. Despite all this cleaning and grounds and extra cables I can't seem to ever get more than 13.2 volts on the outlook monitor. I just redid all the connections and used dielectric grease. Re did the two grounds too. Still 13.2 with my 230 amp alternator, it's showing 180 amps at cold high idle.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
At the passenger battery I am 14.2 to 14.4 running. At the drivers about 14.0 to 14.2. But it's kinda hard to read volts from there driving down the road :-). My outlook used to read 13.0 to 13.1 mostly with the 140 stock alternator, now it runs 13.2, 13.1 with the trailer plugged in and it has two group 24 deep cycles charging.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6,545
Likes: 13
From: Virginia Beach VA
My N-L 230 is giving me 14.2, same as Jack.
Mike,
Check the passenger side ground to body and drivers side body to block. I'd then move the alt stud ground to body instead of passenger battery grounding the post. It makes the ground deeper and pulls more from the frame and body, just not the negative terminal. Also gives a complete loop for grounding other stuff, like lights from the rear all the way through the fuse blocks. As the grounding becomes better, your voltage will go up.
Mike,
Check the passenger side ground to body and drivers side body to block. I'd then move the alt stud ground to body instead of passenger battery grounding the post. It makes the ground deeper and pulls more from the frame and body, just not the negative terminal. Also gives a complete loop for grounding other stuff, like lights from the rear all the way through the fuse blocks. As the grounding becomes better, your voltage will go up.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
14.2 at the batteries, yes, but at the OBD2 port to my outlook monitor all I get is 13.2. It's always been that way. I can try metering inside the panel in the cab and see if I can find better but that is all I got. Once through the batteries, it modulates the voltage. I just re did the battery posts, cleaned and dielectric grease, did grounds at frame, re did the bolts on the terminals for both the negatives and the positives cables that feed everything.
I am open to ideas on what this is, I have always wondered why only 13.2.
I am open to ideas on what this is, I have always wondered why only 13.2.
Last edited by mhoefer; Jan 7, 2016 at 09:54 AM. Reason: Open to solutions comment added